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Interesting mine came today def. the gold ones and its brand spanking new from rockshox. My frame also came yesterday. Both were shipped so quick. I actually really like the rockshox stuff they all seem to work decent and reliable. Fox work good but wow what a pain in the arse...owned numerous examples and they all have been so high maintenance.
 

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Just picked up this beast as a backup to my Kona Honzo and am very pleased. Will be putting a 40mm stem on and my Hadley/ Mavic wheelset on once I get them setup tubeless. I'll get updated pics up once I make the chancges .
 

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My 456 got some upgrades last night: New brakes (Hope Race Evo E4, 180mm front, 160 rear) to replace the 185mm BB7 setup I had been running. And a new set of Raceface Next carbon bars.

I also just ordered a 24t inner chainring for my cranks to get slightly lower gearing without having to use a wider range cassette (changing the 26/36/48 to a 24/36/48). The reason for avoiding the wider range cassette is weight and gear spacing. I could go 10sp or 11sp in the rear to get lower and keep the close spacing (currently running an 11-32 9sp), but that adds weight to the cassette. A 2x11 weighs about the same as a 3x9, so there's no benefit to replacing everything and switching.

1x won't give me the combo of range and close gearing I want. Makes the most sense to stay with 3x9 for now and then maybe go to 2x11 once I wear out enough parts.
 

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My 456 got some upgrades last night: New brakes (Hope Race Evo E4, 180mm front, 160 rear) to replace the 185mm BB7 setup I had been running. And a new set of Raceface Next carbon bars.

I also just ordered a 24t inner chainring for my cranks to get slightly lower gearing without having to use a wider range cassette (changing the 26/36/48 to a 24/36/48). The reason for avoiding the wider range cassette is weight and gear spacing. I could go 10sp or 11sp in the rear to get lower and keep the close spacing (currently running an 11-32 9sp), but that adds weight to the cassette. A 2x11 weighs about the same as a 3x9, so there's no benefit to replacing everything and switching.

1x won't give me the combo of range and close gearing I want. Makes the most sense to stay with 3x9 for now and then maybe go to 2x11 once I wear out enough parts.
Nice write up about gearing. For now I'm going with a 1x10 speed set up with a one-up hope expander -- reason they are parts laying around. I ordered a 1 crank hopefully my gearing will be ok. I don't think my climbing range will be impacted much but I'm thinking high speed runs will be limited ..... or I need to get my cadence up to 200/min lol.
 

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I don't think my climbing range will be impacted much but I'm thinking high speed runs will be limited ..... or I need to get my cadence up to 200/min lol.
That's exactly what led me to the setup I've got. I don't use the 48-11 all that often, but there are definitely times where it's nice to be heading down a hill on smooth ground and have the ability to keep my legs moving and make up some time by pushing for more speed than gravity alone will give.
 

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95% Finished my build might add a chain ring bash guard.
Build is:
Formula C1 Brakes 180mm/160mm disc
ANSWER Pro Taper SL 750 Carbon Handle-Bar
Shimano XT cassette with 1 up Hope Expander 42T 1x10
Shimano XT der with SLX Shifter
KMC Gold Chain
Fulcrum Red Metal 3 Tubeless only Wheels
Schwalbe Rocket Ron Performance Dual Compound Folding Tyre 26 x 2.3
Stans Tubeless Sealant
RockShox Sektor Gold RL Dual Position 150mm Coil
Race Face Ride Narrow Wide Single Crankset
CrankBros Eggbeaters
Thomson Elite Seatpost
Wtb Narrow Saddle
I did a little theme over the word violence as kind of an odd phrase Stock stickers still intact and I 3m filmed most of the frame as well.

Build weight 26.00 pounds with pedals Size Medum

IMG_20170311_083242669_HDR.jpg IMG_20170311_083313291_HDR.jpg IMG_20170311_083345134.jpg IMG_20170311_083320614_HDR.jpg
 

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26 lbs!? Damn, I need to work on slimming my build down... A lighter wheelset will help and I've got the penalty of a triple crank and FD, but I'm at 32.4 lbs with the rack on mine... I'd love to get it down to 30 without going to crazy.

Other than saddle and seatpost, I'm not sure how much more there is to give without spending tons of money. I'm already running carbon bars and a stupidly light Wren stem. Wheelset upgrades will get me another 1/2 - 2/3 of a pound, but that still leaves it at almost 32 lbs...

Mind you, my 32.4 lbs is with the hand pump in its holder on the frame and a multi-tool and tube in the seat pack, but I consider those to be part of the bike weight as the bike is never ridden without them.
 

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Thanks my goal was 25.5 but won't complain my wheelset is 1690 grams which is light . Tires are light as well but they kinda lack knobs or sidewall strength. Tubeless well save you around 300-375 grams from what I've experienced from tubeless set ups I've completed in the past. My budget would not have covered actual cost for my build but I had a bunch of stuff from my parts bin :)

26 lbs!? Damn, I need to work on slimming my build down... A lighter wheelset will help and I've got the penalty of a triple crank and FD, but I'm at 32.4 lbs with the rack on mine... I'd love to get it down to 30 without going to crazy.

Other than saddle and seatpost, I'm not sure how much more there is to give without spending tons of money. I'm already running carbon bars and a stupidly light Wren stem. Wheelset upgrades will get me another 1/2 - 2/3 of a pound, but that still leaves it at almost 32 lbs...

Mind you, my 32.4 lbs is with the hand pump in its holder on the frame and a multi-tool and tube in the seat pack, but I consider those to be part of the bike weight as the bike is never ridden without them.
 

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My current wheelset is about 1900 grams (Mavic XM819s on Hope Pro 2s with DT Comp spokes, brass nipples)

My planned new build should get close to 1600g depending on a few decisions I haven't made yet. I'm currently planning on going with WTB KOMs (probably i23, maybe i25), either DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes, almost definitely staying with brass nipples. I'm debating whether to re-use the current Pro 2 hubs or get something new (probably Pro 4s).

It's pretty much down to this: do I buy the i23 KOMs, re-use the hubs and have them built locally (or DIY it) or do I get i25 KOMs on Pro4s from Chain Reaction (they don't offer the i23s for custom builds for some reason) and keep the current set around? The second option is only slightly more expensive, so that's the one I'm leaning towards. I just have to convince myself that the extra 20 grams per rim for the i25s isn't a big deal and that the extra width will be fine...

I'm tubeless already, I just carry a tube as a "just in case". For tires, I'm running 26x2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'R2 Advanced, so not too heavy at a spec-ed 570 grams per tire. Definitely not bad weight-wise for how well they grip (and they roll nicely too).

For the rest of the bike, if I wanted to start throwing $$$ at it, I could start replacing the XT drivetrain with lighter bits. But it works very well as-is, so... And the wide range / close spacing combo with the current 3x9 makes the bike a great do-everything setup. Cassette is an 11-32, I've got 26/36/48 up front (soon to be 24/36/48). Low enough gears for singletrack, fast enough gears for smooth stuff going downhill and close spacing for sprinting or keeping a comfortable cadence with some weight on the rack.
 

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My current wheelset is about 1900 grams (Mavic XM819s on Hope Pro 2s with DT Comp spokes, brass nipples)

My planned new build should get close to 1600g depending on a few decisions I haven't made yet. I'm currently planning on going with WTB KOMs (probably i23, maybe i25), either DT Revolution or Sapim Laser spokes, almost definitely staying with brass nipples. I'm debating whether to re-use the current Pro 2 hubs or get something new (probably Pro 4s).

It's pretty much down to this: do I buy the i23 KOMs, re-use the hubs and have them built locally (or DIY it) or do I get i25 KOMs on Pro4s from Chain Reaction (they don't offer the i23s for custom builds for some reason) and keep the current set around? The second option is only slightly more expensive, so that's the one I'm leaning towards. I just have to convince myself that the extra 20 grams per rim for the i25s isn't a big deal and that the extra width will be fine...

I'm tubeless already, I just carry a tube as a "just in case". For tires, I'm running 26x2.25 Michelin Wild Grip'R2 Advanced, so not too heavy at a spec-ed 570 grams per tire. Definitely not bad weight-wise for how well they grip (and they roll nicely too).

For the rest of the bike, if I wanted to start throwing $$$ at it, I could start replacing the XT drivetrain with lighter bits. But it works very well as-is, so... And the wide range / close spacing combo with the current 3x9 makes the bike a great do-everything setup. Cassette is an 11-32, I've got 26/36/48 up front (soon to be 24/36/48). Low enough gears for singletrack, fast enough gears for smooth stuff going downhill and close spacing for sprinting or keeping a comfortable cadence with some weight on the rack.
Sounds like you will save some weight definitely. Have you ever ran a 2x10 or venture into a 1x10 setup? You will definitely shave a lot of weight by running a 1x10. I was totally hesitant back in 2014 to run a 1x10 on by 29er but gave it a whirl and got use to it. I climb so crazy stuff and have no issues. Only beef is I do run out of top end but that is around 45-50 kms per hour....which really is not a speed most mtb riders can maintain for long periods of time so i'm ok with it. The simplicity of running a 1x setup is nice.

My thomson seatpost is chopped as well and lighter than most carbon ones... its at 170 grams.

SAD thing about my build I can't ride it to darn cold out -28 today with wind chill :(
 

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I've thought about 1x, but I'd give up a lot of top end to do it (and those fast gears do see some use on rail trails or the occasional time I throw the slicks on and ride it on the street).

And a lot of 1x setups focus on trying to get a wide range and end up with huge jumps between gears. I tend to spin more than mash, so I like the close gear spacing (hence the 11-32 cassette instead of an 11-34 or wider).

I'll probably end up going to a 2x11 eventually when I wear out enough of the current drivetrain bits as it'll let me run newer stuff. But it'll still weigh about the same for equivalent level components (and have similar overall gearing).
 

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Yesterday I found this nice crack in the seat stay of my 2014 456EvoII. I'm a bit disappointed, I thought that a 2,7kg steel frame was sturdy enough not to be worried about cracks. In this case it's clear that some kind of reicforcement like other bikes have would have prevented this crack.

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Were you trying some trials moves, or got stopped on a hill and locked your brakes and hopped a bit? Because that crack is from locking your brakes and trying to rotate the wheel backwards. If the crack was on the front side, it would be from normal braking.
 

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Who thinks the stickers on my wheels are over kill?
Me ;0)

Just chiming into the thread as I bought a 'cycle of violence' frame last week that I'm building up for my eighteen-year-old son. He's not overly exited about it, but I am.

At the moment I'm putting a 120mm Fox 32 on it but I have a Sektor that can go up to 150mm so I might try that at some point to see if he likes a longer fork.

Not impressed with that frame braking. I don't care what you were doing with it, shouldn't have snapped.

Picture from the thread about 'man caves' but only picture I have of the bare frame. It's not bare any more.

021 (2).jpg
 

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Me ;0)

Just chiming into the thread as I bought a 'cycle of violence' frame last week that I'm building up for my eighteen-year-old son. He's not overly exited about it, but I am.

At the moment I'm putting a 120mm Fox 32 on it but I have a Sektor that can go up to 150mm so I might try that at some point to see if he likes a longer fork.

Not impressed with that frame braking. I don't care what you were doing with it, shouldn't have snapped.

Picture from the thread about 'man caves' but only picture I have of the bare frame. It's not bare any more.

View attachment 1129641
Nice he will like it! I run my dual Sektor Gold in long travel mode for everything seems to suit the frame more so over the short travel mode. I keep the rebound 3-4 clicks from fast (Bunny).
 

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I run my dual Sektor Gold in long travel mode for everything seems to suit the frame more so over the short travel mode. I keep the rebound 3-4 clicks from fast.
That's good info, thanks. I've just finished doing up his old bike to sell so attention is on the new bike now. It's got the Fox on it and I'll leave that on for a while then try the Sektor, probably at 140mm.

One of the problems is that he just rides bikes. He doesn't pay any attention to suspension setting or anything like that so it'll be hard to get him to dial in the fork. It's not something I'm very good at myself so it's kinda the blind leading the blind ;0) I still don't have my own Fox fork adjusted the way I would like it to be.
 

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Got the bike finished. Well except for the front dérailleur which hasn't arrived yet. Looks cool, I'll take a picture tomorrow night.
 

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Dang I like those yellows!

...just finished doing up his old bike to sell so attention is on the new bike now. It's got the Fox on it and I'll leave that on for a while then try the Sektor, probably at 140mm.

One of the problems is that he just rides bikes. He doesn't pay any attention to suspension setting or anything like that so it'll be hard to get him to dial in the fork. It's not something I'm very good at myself so it's kinda the blind leading the blind ;0) I still don't have my own Fox fork adjusted the way I would like it to be.
Scottzg comments are spot on re: the RS forks from that era Pig, much better chassis compared to the 32 ime:thumbsup:
 
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