[fat arse racing]

i found this on the 'bay' and was wondering if anyone has used one, or is using one? are they any good? does it work ? my running gear is right for the job as it is pretty specific about that. it looks good and well made from what i can see, and i intend to use it for my 1x9 set up !

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160453534845&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

 

[LyNx]

Hum :skep: Very coincidental that the listing is from Aus and then along you come registering for the first time and asking about it and happen to also be from Aus :skep: Are we being cleverly spammed here? :???:

 

[fat arse racing]

ah ..i know Australia is considered an island , but it does have a population of about 20 million.....and i have posted this same question to local forums but know one has replied, so i thought it would be good idea to try my home land !:thumbsup:

 

[LyNx]

Looking at it and reading it requires a spacer to fit inbetween it and the 34t cog and is not machined as such, I'd definitely say I wouldn't buy or use it for the simple reason that it'll eat the $hit out of your freehub if it's alu and more than likely even score a SS freehub. Love the "Not for use with granny ring" :rolleyes" I'm waiting for the people who get this to start asking for warranty when it cracks/breaks their hubs because of the torque.

 

[BruceBrown]

i found this on the 'bay' and was wondering if anyone has used one, or is using one? are they any good? does it work ? my running gear is right for the job as it is pretty specific about that. it looks good and well made from what i can see, and i intend to use it for my 1x9 set up !

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160453534845&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

Looks promising if one is running Shimano cassette and rear derailleur as required.

Why not just run a smaller inner ring up front in a 2 x 9 to achieve the same gearing. Less cost and less weight. No need to lengthen your chain or mod your rear derailleur.

BB

 

[campredcloudbikes]

I have a 36t from an American eBay seller, and it works well. Shifting is a bit rougher than the rest of the sram cassette, and it pedals a little rough when I'm in the 34t ring up front. If you're running 2x9, you're much better off getting the Actiontec 20t granny gear (the mod was really easy on my Shimano Hone crank) and then either 34 or 36 in the back. Remember, 20x34 is easier than 22x36, 20x36 is easier than 22x38. The 20t saves the weight of bigger rear cogs, and makes every rear cog a bit easier. But, looks like you're running 1x9

 

[deuxdiesel]

I know I'm only from the Midwest, but day-um, 38 teeth? Imagine the cross-chain nightmare with a 38/44 and the length of chain you would need- the chain would also be dragging on the ground if you were in granny and 12 How about a 20T granny on a 34 cassette?

 

[mikesee]

I know I'm only from the Midwest, but day-um, 38 teeth? Imagine the cross-chain nightmare with a 38/44 and the length of chain you would need- the chain would also be dragging on the ground if you were in granny and 12 How about a 20T granny on a 34 cassette?

I used to be from the midwest. And I'd have probably asked something similar back then.

Now, I wonder what the hell 44t rings are for on an MTB? Other than as expensive rock rings?

And why on earth would you cross chain 38 to 44, or granny to 12?

If I could get good shifting with a 38t out back, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Since that hasn't yet been in the cards, I'm enjoying my 11/36 cassette paired with 20 x 29 up front. Not always low enough for all-day-long climbs in the high alpine, but I have yet to run out of top end when descending.

MC

 

[alexkraemer]

I ran a 12-38T cassette with a 26-39 setup, and the only issue I ran into was:
1. That gearing range is too high for me, I'd rather have more teeth on the low end
2. The shifting from the 34T to the 38T was not as smooth as other shifts, but it worked just fine with a SLX Shadow rear derailleur.
I was tempted to put the 38T on my tandem, but never got around to it.

38T works - but use a steel freehub if you're going to do it. If I were to do it again, I'd use a 12-36 or 11-36 cassette and change the gearing on the cranks to meet my needs - the shifting is that much better.

 

[fat arse racing]

thanks for the feedback everyone, you have all raised valid points...im always reminded of our great mountain biking 'creators' who were using equipment that wasn't designed for what they were using it for !....but now we have the best sport in the world !.....i think i'll give it a go and maybe keep you posted...perhaps some pics for clarity !:rockon:

 

[Davidcopperfield]

C
heck this thread about aluminium 38T cog for aluminium freehubs http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=482291&page=2

 

[fat arse racing]

C
heck this thread about aluminium 38T cog for aluminium freehubs http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=482291&page=2

cool...that's a thread i searched for but never got !:thumbsup: