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Where to start . . .

I dont know what you mean by pull apart hubs or downhill racer type hubs.

Shimano, Azonic, DMR, Hope, DT Swiss, White Industries, Chris King, Profile, Industry Nine, Atomlab all make 36 hole hubs that can handle various levels of abuse.

What is your budget and do you have an idea of the amount of engagement you're looking for? 18 points of engagement, 36, 72, 100+?

36 spoke hubs are harder to find these days because increases in rim strength and technology has made 32 spoke wheels hold up really well to big guys and abusive riders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
WTB Laser disc hub

I need this for a heavy duty cargo bike. I got a pull-apart hub with 3 or 4 cartridge bearings
And a 150mm drop out spacing for my last bike. Can't remember the name, it was only about $125 a few years ago. 32 spokes.

The wheel I want to build has to be a 24" with 1.95" tire, 135mm wide. And of course they do not make a wide 24" wheel rim with 32 spokes. Or nothing I have seen that is also strong.

I would settle for a HD rim 24" with 32 spoke holes to use with my not so HD sram X7 hub. I would even use a steel rim!

:madman:
 

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I've been beating the hell out of some 36 hole Shimano SLX hubs for the last 18 months on my commuter bike. Easily over 4K miles on them. The seals are great and the hubs run really smooth. They've got 32 points of engagement which is twice of most hubs on the market. 135mm with centerlock rotor flange (although with an adapter you can run 6 bolt rotors).

Hopes are probably the most bulletproof hubs you can get for the price.

If you dont need 24" and can use 26" Azonic Outlaws cant be beat for the price.
 

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are the Shimano SLX hubs disposable,(non replaceable bearing races etc?

and what is a centerlock rotor flange ?
No, they're fully serviceable ball and cone hubs with a generic 10mm axle in the back, easy to convert to bolt-on if you feel. Really easy to strip down and repack when necessary (no cartridge bearings to press).

Centerlock is a different mountain system for rotors. The rotors have a splined pattern on them to match a splined flange on the hub. Makes for a lighter interface and stiffer rotors.
 

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That what I like about the Laserdisc bearings, NO PRESSING needed.

I presume that I would have to pay $275 or more to get a hub that is as good as the Laser disc hub with the right amount of spokes.

Apparently fully serviceable means disposable, unless you know of some that have actually replaceable races.
Disposable if you dont ever repack the grease and let water corrode away and pit the races and bearings. Then yes, these are disposable. With regular cleaning and grease they'll last forever. Bearings wear out first, then cones, then races machined into the hub. With regular grease they'll all last longer than you'll be riding. Maybe we're entering an era where people dont know how to work on loose ball hubs . . .

When I think disposable, I think first of cheap hubs that do not have replaceable freehub bodies, so that when the freehub dies, the hub and wheel is toast. The next thing that I think of are non-serviceable cartridge bearings that you just throw away when they wear out and replace with a new set. New bearings cost money, with a serviceable loose ball hub, you reuse the bearings and just put in fresh grease.

I work on bikes all the time that have 30+ year old wheels on them, as long as there was good grease in them back then, most of the wheels still spin perfectly smooth when repacked with fresh grease.

Those Laserdisc hubs are just rebadged American Classic Hubs. Nothing too fancy or durable in the scheme of things. I cant tell if you're a complete noob, a brand whore, hack-wrench, or what but you're asking for a cheap and durable hub with 36 spokes. There are several really great options that dont require spending $275+ for a hub.

If it's for a cargo bike, you might not want a blingy hub. Since you'll be on pavement and pushing bigger gears, you might not need a ton of engagement points.

I'm done here, you dont really know what you want and you've got a ton of reading to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Old school equipment

Old school equipment

I don't know why your upset, It's true that the bicycle industry has confused me into thinking that more money means better equipment.'
I am so glad that you pointed out that old school equipment is made to last. I just hope I can figure out how often to re-grease them.

.....thanks for the information!!!!!!!

I got one of these hubs, they are excellent! But I think the reason for so many 'points of engagement' is smaller ratcheting mechanism to fit into the limited space.

Also the reason for new fancy no-maintenance equipment is the very expensive shop time, and of course people just do not want to fix their bikes with out a shop space. Good thing for bicycle co-op shops.
 

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If you can hunt one down an older Hugi 36 hole hub (if i recall they were used mosly in tandems?) basically fits the bill... If you can find a NOS one at a reasonable price they are pretty indestructible and "pull apart" serviceable if I remember correctly...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Both of you guys are wrong. If there are the right size cones laying around I have no clue how to find them.

This was what the guys at our local bike shop sold me when I walked in looking for the right size. Apparently no one is aware that the tip diameters are different. Even wheels manufacturing told me that they are all the same. Yet they are all different!

I had to measure them with my digital caliper to discover the problem.

Now I am looking for a 135mm tandem bicycle 36h hubs with 4 bearings for disc brake hub that uses cartridge bearings!

But I don't think I will find one so narrow. I may have to alter my bikes frame for 142mm wide hubs.

There are enough Shimano cones for that hub in shops to last your lifetime.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
this is the bike it is for, a very heavy duty hand made cycle truck, now with moped tires

Wheel Tire Bicycle tire Mode of transport Bicycle wheel rim
 
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