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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey,

Built up my surly 29er KM as a all rounder, added a basic 3 cree/r2 dyno light with the circuit (100uf cap) in the fork.





Also to let people see how easy the martin basic circuit really is, I have re-drawn it, with a pic of what the parts look like the way I build it (dead bug style)...each step is the same circuit, just re-drawn so its easier on the brain...



err looking @ the photo, I guess I need to put it on the other side...better cable routing. DOH

enjoy

Ktronik
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First I must say your new light is fantastic!!! very well done...& love the stem mount.. :thumbsup:

the hub is of 'XT' standard, so will handle anything you can throw @ it...

You can set it up for any type of riding / speed by changing the bi-polar cap, for off-road add a bigger cap (200uf best IMO) or add a voltage doubler, its all simple stuff & works great for 24hr racing... hey I can't afford the cost of batterys for a 24hr race so I use my dynamo...

you can use 1 bi-polar cap (simplest or 4 reg caps if you can't find one)

below is specs for the same circuit just using 4 caps instead of 1 & using a voltage doubler for slow speed, but really the voltage double is not needed, you could just use a 200uf cap (with out Volt Dob) & have very little variation over the whole ride. (See the top specs)

Fullwave, 4x220uF, 3 LEDs

Read as Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 7.59 V 2 mA 0.01 W
5.0 km/h 8.12 V 23 mA 0.19 W
7.0 km/h 8.71 V 100 mA 0.87 W
9.0 km/h 9.18 V 180 mA 1.65 W
12.0 km/h 9.63 V 310 mA 2.99 W
15.0 km/h 10.05 V 480 mA 4.82 W
18.0 km/h 10.30 V 660 mA 6.80 W
19.0 km/h 10.36 V 670 mA 6.94 W
20.0 km/h 10.28 V 660 mA 6.78 W
24.0 km/h 10.16 V 600 mA 6.10 W
29.0 km/h 10.09 V 570 mA 5.75 W
35.0 km/h 10.04 V 550 mA 5.52 W
53.0 km/h 10.04 V 530 mA 5.32 W

Doubler, 2x220uF, 3 LEDs
Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 8.30 V 41 mA 0.34 W
5.0 km/h 8.58 V 70 mA 0.60 W
7.0 km/h 8.92 V 120 mA 1.07 W
9.0 km/h 9.30 V 200 mA 1.86 W
12.0 km/h 9.76 V 350 mA 3.42 W
13.0 km/h 9.82 V 390 mA 3.83 W
14.0 km/h 9.74 V 370 mA 3.60 W
16.0 km/h 9.60 V 320 mA 3.07 W
18.0 km/h 9.55 V 300 mA 2.87 W
20.0 km/h 9.51 V 290 mA 2.76 W
23.0 km/h 9.48 V 280 mA 2.65 W
26.0 km/h 9.45 V 280 mA 2.65 W
31.0 km/h 9.43 V 270 mA 2.55 W
54.0 km/h 9.40 V 260 mA 2.44 W



Or for ON-road I use 4 100uf caps...CAT. NO. RE6346


Fullwave, 4x100uF, 3 LEDs
Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 7.69 V 3 mA 0.03 W
5.0 km/h 8.14 V 26 mA 0.21 W
7.0 km/h 8.47 V 50 mA 0.42 W
9.0 km/h 8.79 V 100 mA 0.88 W
12.0 km/h 9.16 V 170 mA 1.56 W
15.0 km/h 9.44 V 250 mA 2.36 W
18.0 km/h 9.75 V 350 mA 3.41 W
21.0 km/h 10.04 V 490 mA 4.92 W
23.0 km/h 10.24 V 610 mA 6.25 W
25.0 km/h 10.42 V 740 mA 7.71 W
26.0 km/h 10.50 V 820 mA 8.61 W
27.0 km/h 10.58 V 900 mA 9.52 W
27.5 km/h 10.62 V 910 mA 9.66 W
28.0 km/h 10.55 V 900 mA 9.50 W
30.0 km/h 10.34 V 740 mA 7.65 W
31.0 km/h 10.33 V 710 mA 7.33 W
37.0 km/h 10.14 V 630 mA 6.39 W
43.0 km/h 10.06 V 600 mA 6.04 W
54.0 km/h 10.00 V 570 mA 5.70 W


Doubler, 2x100uF, 3 LEDs
Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 8.10 V 24 mA 0.19 W
5.0 km/h 8.30 V 42 mA 0.35 W
7.0 km/h 8.57 V 70 mA 0.60 W
9.0 km/h 8.79 V 100 mA 0.88 W
12.0 km/h 9.09 V 170 mA 1.55 W
15.0 km/h 9.49 V 270 mA 2.56 W
18.0 km/h 9.89 V 430 mA 4.25 W
19.0 km/h 9.91 V 470 mA 4.66 W
19.5 km/h 9.93 V 490 mA 4.87 W
20.0 km/h 10.00 V 500 mA 5.00 W
20.4 km/h 9.70 V 400 mA 3.88 W
20.5 km/h 9.68 V 390 mA 3.78 W
21.0 km/h 9.64 V 370 mA 3.57 W
21.7 km/h 9.63 V 360 mA 3.47 W
24.0 km/h 9.57 V 330 mA 3.16 W
28.0 km/h 9.49 V 310 mA 2.94 W
36.0 km/h 9.42 V 290 mA 2.73 W
55.0 km/h 9.37 V 270 mA 2.53 W



if you are really really fast or ebike you could use 47uf for MAX power output, but real peaky curve...

Fullwave, 4x47uF, 3 LEDs
Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 7.60 V 2 mA 0.02 W
5.0 km/h 7.83 V 9 mA 0.07 W
7.0 km/h 8.14 V 29 mA 0.24 W
9.0 km/h 8.44 V 61 mA 0.51 W
12.0 km/h 8.75 V 109 mA 0.95 W
15.0 km/h 9.03 V 160 mA 1.44 W
18.0 km/h 9.20 V 210 mA 1.93 W
21.0 km/h 9.42 V 270 mA 2.54 W
24.0 km/h 9.60 V 330 mA 3.17 W
27.0 km/h 9.81 V 420 mA 4.12 W
30.0 km/h 10.04 V 530 mA 5.32 W
33.0 km/h 10.28 V 680 mA 6.99 W
36.0 km/h 10.52 V 860 mA 9.05 W
37.0 km/h 10.53 V 920 mA 9.69 W
39.0 km/h 10.75 V 1050 mA 11.29 W
40.5 km/h 10.85 V 1150 mA 12.48 W
42.0 km/h 10.24 V 750 mA 7.68 W
44.0 km/h 10.26 V 720 mA 7.39 W
53.0 km/h 10.16 V 640 mA 6.50 W



Doubler, 2x47uF, 3 LEDs
Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 7.91 V 13 mA 0.10 W
5.0 km/h 8.05 V 21 mA 0.17 W
7.0 km/h 8.29 V 42 mA 0.35 W
9.0 km/h 8.47 V 63 mA 0.53 W
12.0 km/h 8.73 V 102 mA 0.89 W
15.0 km/h 8.96 V 140 mA 1.25 W
18.0 km/h 9.19 V 200 mA 1.84 W
21.0 km/h 9.46 V 280 mA 2.65 W
24.0 km/h 9.71 V 380 mA 3.69 W
27.0 km/h 10.00 V 510 mA 5.10 W
29.5 km/h 10.16 V 610 mA 6.20 W
30.0 km/h 9.70 V 380 mA 3.69 W
31.0 km/h 9.65 V 370 mA 3.57 W
32.0 km/h 9.62 V 360 mA 3.46 W
35.0 km/h 9.55 V 330 mA 3.15 W
54.0 km/h 9.40 V 290 mA 2.73 W


I can't feel the drag, & still go great in racing, passing heaps of people, but I am on a 29er so its a little un-fair for the smaller wheeled guys...

hope that helps...

Ktronik
 

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troutie-mtb said:
...and what speed does it start to light the lights
and I suppose with fat tyres you would not even notice any extra drag ?
aslo what make and approx cost?
Troutie I use a doubler circuit at low speed and get enough light from walking pace. Its nice how the brightness ramps up smoothly as speed increases. Magic. :thumbsup:

I can just notice the drag if I turn the lights on/off but it doesn't feel like anything is slowing you down otherwise.
I just got a MTB hub for around 50 of your pounds.... labour, spokes and a new disc doubled the cost. Cheaper than batteries long term and just jump on and ride.
Oh yeah, dynamos are constant current devices so ideal for driving an MC-E or two. :winker: :winker:

Kerry have you tried the new cree optics from cutter?
 

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ktronik said:
I can't wait, these are ideal for dynamo lights as you can run them in series!

Znomit, you could have just one 4 die LED, for a dyno light for your road bike how lite & small would that be!!!
I know.... and you can run different dies in series/parallel to customise output beam profile. Should rock on the dyno, might even sort out my brake caliper mounting, should work with just one led.
Think I'll wait till summer to start playing, my triple is great and the MC-E wont have R2 efficacy for a while.
 

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ktronik said:
Ok ,you will wait till its gets to R2 eff... but by then what will single die LEDs be @??? & when will the gap between the two be bridged??... I know you... you will wait 2 mins after they are avab & stable... :p

K
I expect R4 will arrive before the end of the year. I dunno if things will get brighter like they did last year, was cool with my builds going from P3 to R2 in such a short time ...

Yeah I'd like to do a few things and have a few ideas but with a new baby and having to train for 4x taupo not much time for light building... hence the nightlightning MTB head. Like to do a stealthy single MC-E brake caliper mounted but will need some nice machining done.... :ihih: :ihih: :ihih: :ihih: :ihih: :ihih: :ihih: :ihih: :ihih:
 

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You lot talk in a strange language I have never been able to get my head round
electronics and the maths
so I will leave it up to the experts and stick to the engineering side

I wish you had not posted this thread cos it just puts another thing on my wishlist

I really do like the idea of the dyno hub and no battery it goes well well with the minimalist stem faceplate light and new MC E


I expect to see a very neat cnc `d stem light soon from Ktronik

the problem is that stems are all different so there is no mass market for this idea


I will be back for electronic advise when I have saved up some spare cash for a dyno hub
and wheel build

cheers Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
troutie-mtb said:
You lot talk in a strange language I have never been able to get my head round
electronics and the maths
so I will leave it up to the experts and stick to the engineering side

I wish you had not posted this thread cos it just puts another thing on my wishlist

I really do like the idea of the dyno hub and no battery it goes well well with the minimalist stem faceplate light and new MC E

I expect to see a very neat cnc `d stem light soon from Ktronik

the problem is that stems are all different so there is no mass market for this idea

I will be back for electronic advise when I have saved up some spare cash for a dyno hub
and wheel build

cheers Chris
I think your stem mount is an engineering marvel, as how you gunna cool a light that small & that powerfull... I see no other way...I was toying with the idea after Dom made his minty as the small size was hard to keep cool when not moving & on high beam, but in the end dismissed it due to the facts you have just stated (not all stems are the same)

My idea is to be direct bar mount as only 2 sizes to deal with (26.4mm & 31.8mm)

dynolights don't this problem as much, as the faster you go, the more power / light you have, the more cooling you get... a match made in heaven... in fact when you ride dynamo its very hard to go back to batts...& the fact that we can get so much power from them & LEDs give so much light for that power is just fantastic...

when I first told martin how much power I was getting from the hub, using his circuit, he did not believe me, so he rang me up from Germany & quizzed me to see if I was right...:D

glad he did as look how far we have come...& now the MC-E is coming out, I feel a huge shift coming, in the way all bike lights will be built / made...

your new light could very easily just have a built in bar clamp on either side of the stem, & thus be more campatable with my bike... err other peoples bike... :yesnod: :thumbsup:

Please don't be teched out buy the science of it all, as with a team like Zno, Martin & I, you will always have the help you need, & after the first time you make one, you will slap yourself for thinking it was hard...

K
 

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ktronik said:
I think your stem mount is an engineering marvel, as how you gunna cool a light that small & that powerfull... I see no other way...I was toying with the idea after Dom made his minty as the small size was hard to keep cool when not moving & on high beam, but in the end dismissed it due to the facts you have just stated (not all stems are the same)

My idea is to be direct bar mount as only 2 sizes to deal with (26.4mm & 31.8mm)

dynolights don't this problem as much, as the faster you go, the more power / light you have, the more cooling you get... a match made in heaven... in fact when you ride dynamo its very hard to go back to batts...& the fact that we can get so much power from them & LEDs give so much light for that power is just fantastic...

when I first told martin how much power I was getting from the hub, using his circuit, he did not believe me, so he rang me up from Germany & quizzed me to see if I was right...:D

glad he did as look how far we have come...& now the MC-E is coming out, I feel a huge shift coming, in the way all bike lights will be built / made...

your new light could very easily just have a built in bar clamp on either side of the stem, & thus be more campatable with my bike... err other peoples bike... :yesnod: :thumbsup:

Please don't be teched out buy the science of it all, as with a team like Zno, Martin & I, you will always have the help you need, & after the first time you make one, you will slap yourself for thinking it was hard...

K
What do you do when you stop at a red light and the light goes out do you have a backup be seen light too.

Yes the barclamp works well to transfer the heat as my other lights proved but everyone has lights bar mounted , this just has a minimalist fit and forget approach and everyone needs a challenge now and again:D :madman:

and will defo be back for help in the future , only problem is the wife has vetoed me spending on hobby stuff for a while.:nono: :nono:

This forum must inspire so many folk to have a go at a do it youself light
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
troutie-mtb said:
:D defo a bit of UK slang for definatly:D

Just had a look at this
http://www.kinetics.org.uk/html/son_hub_dynamo.shtml

quite a bit pricy :eekster: , that is a lot of dishwashing
I see, no worries cobber...mate if you can buy a SON do it...these are the best you can get IMO... just lock your front cones a bit tighter so your hub looks like its flogged out... 'honey, my F hub died & I will have to use you car to get to work...'... you will have your SON pretty quick... :thumbsup:

K
 

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troutie-mtb said:
What do you do when you stop at a red light and the light goes out do you have a backup be seen light too.
I tried glow in the dark powder, have very cool looking lights now but not quite bright enough. :rolleyes:
I figure you always need a backup anyway so I run a blinky too. Can't fix a puncture with just a dyno light. :nonod:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
but can you fix a flat with a blinky??

I learnt the hard way...when I built my first dyno light (maglite head with 3 Lux3s) I went for a test in the bush... had a wash out & a step off on a bend...well I can tell ya its very dark in the bush @ night... luckily my rear flasher was going so I could find my bike...

always use a back up light or better a head mounted light to see around the bend...:thumbsup:

K
 

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troutie-mtb said:
:D defo a bit of UK slang for definatly:D

Just had a look at this
http://www.kinetics.org.uk/html/son_hub_dynamo.shtml

quite a bit pricy :eekster: , that is a lot of dishwashing
I got a knotchy feeling shimano hub :nono: & an is it even on schmidt:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: there is no compairing them the schmidt is far better.
shimano you kinda no when the lights are on but with the schmidt who cares LED's wont burn out drag what drag.

the B&M ixon light has 4 X AA batteries in that can be charged as you ride or other nm-mh.
Theres a few things in there favour, they both mean my lights are well fixed so i never have to look for them nor batteries & thieves think there old man of the alotment type stuff & just pass them by.:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Dynamo lumen dealer

Hi All,

Well, I met Ktronik yesterday, top bloke:thumbsup: ... and extremely knowledgeable, with all things electronic, particularly dynamo lights...and more than willing to pass that knowledge on.
Ktronik gave me a demo on the 3 x R2 dyno light which pumped out penty of light with him just walking beside his Surly 29er and only got brighter as his speed increased...well as fast as you can ride around a clothes line (Hills hoist) in the back yard...very impressive...I'm sure most people would hooked on the Dyno light lumens after seeing light output like this.

I'm now convinced the circuit below is the best for my new light.

Fullwave, 4x100uF, 3 LEDs
Speed V I P
4.0 km/h 7.69 V 3 mA 0.03 W
5.0 km/h 8.14 V 26 mA 0.21 W
7.0 km/h 8.47 V 50 mA 0.42 W
9.0 km/h 8.79 V 100 mA 0.88 W
12.0 km/h 9.16 V 170 mA 1.56 W
15.0 km/h 9.44 V 250 mA 2.36 W
18.0 km/h 9.75 V 350 mA 3.41 W
21.0 km/h 10.04 V 490 mA 4.92 W
23.0 km/h 10.24 V 610 mA 6.25 W
25.0 km/h 10.42 V 740 mA 7.71 W
26.0 km/h 10.50 V 820 mA 8.61 W
27.0 km/h 10.58 V 900 mA 9.52 W
27.5 km/h 10.62 V 910 mA 9.66 W
28.0 km/h 10.55 V 900 mA 9.50 W
30.0 km/h 10.34 V 740 mA 7.65 W
31.0 km/h 10.33 V 710 mA 7.33 W
37.0 km/h 10.14 V 630 mA 6.39 W
43.0 km/h 10.06 V 600 mA 6.04 W
54.0 km/h 10.00 V 570 mA 5.70 W

The circuit Ktronik has drawn up, really is very simple...but I must admit that I didn't realise just how simple it was unitl I saw laid out in front of me.

drawing 4 is the one to look at
 

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