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mtbr Decade+
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Assuming, probably erroneously so, that I get a job soon; this spring I'll probably buy a 29er to see what I think. I've got so much invested in 26 inch bikes that I resisted for a long time. I have two questions:

First, does a 23.5" ETT 26 inch bike fit like a 23.5" ETT 29er? I don't think I'll have an opportunity to test drive much of a selection, so I'll probably be buying from a catalogue.

Second, if the steering with the bigger wheel is a little slower should I try a bigger ETT length and use a smaller stem to make it feel livelier?

I'd appreciate your help,
Ed
 

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Hello Ed,
I buy my bikes based of ETT. I rode about a 23.75 ETT on my 26er and the same on my 29er. The only difference I notice is the head tube will be higher on your 29er. I flip all of my stems on my 29ers.
Usually most 29ers are made with steeper head angles which keeps the steering on par with 26" bikes. If the bike is designed correctly there won't be any need to manipulate the handling.
Hopefully this helps.
 

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tigerwah said:
Who else is doing this besides Gary Fisher?
All the new suspension forks have more offset (45-46mm). Now that that is finally taken care of more frames will come designed around these forks. Its just not an immediate change.

GF was the company with enough size and muscle to get it done in the past
 

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1- Yes, fit is fit. You might keep an eye out for seat tube angles, though... effective top tube length only means "what the length would be if the top tube were horizontal." When comparing across bikes, a steeper seat tube angle will mean (assuming you want to keep the same saddle-pedal orientation) that your top tube acts like one that is a little longer. Same deal with a slack seat tube angle- it means a given top tube will actually ride like it is a little bit shorter. Nothing to do with 29 vs. 26, or what is called "effective" top tube, either, but something to keep in mind.

2- No. No need to do anything odd to "compensate" for 29er geometry. Just try to get something that has a trail figure similar to what you like and are used to on a 26er. Generally, that will mean more fork offset and/or steeper head angle on the 29er.

Biggie said:
Assuming, probably erroneously so, that I get a job soon; this spring I'll probably buy a 29er to see what I think. I've got so much invested in 26 inch bikes that I resisted for a long time. I have two questions:

First, does a 23.5" ETT 26 inch bike fit like a 23.5" ETT 29er? I don't think I'll have an opportunity to test drive much of a selection, so I'll probably be buying from a catalogue.

Second, if the steering with the bigger wheel is a little slower should I try a bigger ETT length and use a smaller stem to make it feel livelier?

I'd appreciate your help,
Ed
 

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Harmonius Wrench
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8,254 Posts
John_Biker said:
1- Yes, fit is fit. You might keep an eye out for seat tube angles, though... effective top tube length only means "what the length would be if the top tube were horizontal." When comparing across bikes, a steeper seat tube angle will mean (assuming you want to keep the same saddle-pedal orientation) that your top tube acts like one that is a little longer. Same deal with a slack seat tube angle- it means a given top tube will actually ride like it is a little bit shorter. Nothing to do with 29 vs. 26, or what is called "effective" top tube, either, but something to keep in mind.

2- No. No need to do anything odd to "compensate" for 29er geometry. Just try to get something that has a trail figure similar to what you like and are used to on a 26er. Generally, that will mean more fork offset and/or steeper head angle on the 29er.
I would agree with this.
 

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The spec's on 9'ers is all over the place. You need to test ride several unless your not pickey. Steering may seem a bit slower however everyone I know that's left the sinking 26 inched wheeled ship has never looked back. I to was very slow leaving a small fortune in 26er's for big wheels. Happy Trails
 
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