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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a 2012 Sworks Epic with a Roval carbon wheelset.

The rear wheel needed to be trued, I trued it and immediately after mounting/inflating the tire the warp returned.

There's no apparent damage to the rim and there are no cracks.

Anyone got any idea why the warp would return without even riding it?

I think the rim is toast.
 

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I just purchased a 2012 Sworks Epic with a Roval carbon wheelset.

The rear wheel needed to be trued, I trued it and immediately after mounting/inflating the tire the warp returned.

There's no apparent damage to the rim and there are no cracks.

Anyone got any idea why the warp would return without even riding it?

I think the rim is toast.
MikeSee is the man, listen to him.

A while back I was reading a lot about tubeless tyres affecting spoke tension.

You could re-true now that you've mounted & inflated the tyre. If the spoken tension is obviously way off or inconsistent (you can ping them and listen for a musical note), then .... someone with more experience in this than me will have to advise you about whether to ride it till it really buckles, or have it re-built with new spokes, or replace the rim (I doubt that the rim would be toast...they doesn't behave like alu)
 

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If it is one of the straight pull spoke design wheels (most likely) make sure that what you are feeling when truing it is actually the spoke and nipple threading and not binding/twisting as you true it. Many of the Roval wheels come with inconsistent spoke lengths, even out of the box. I worked at a Specy dealer from 2014-2018, and it was common to have to replace spokes with shorter ones, as the nipple would be bottomed out on the spoke threads and while you could "true" it, it would spring back out of true because it wasn't actually threading down.
Your rim is also older, so take that into mind. Personally, I have rebuilt 2 older Roval Carbon rims onto different hubs, and they are still rolling great, and I have one other Roval rim in a box that I'm planning on doing the same to. But if any of them had given me a problem during the re-build I probably would've stopped right away.

***edit, also will benefit you to give a drop of lube to all the spoke/nipples and let it penetrate for a while to help make sure they aren't spinning together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If it is one of the straight pull spoke design wheels (most likely) make sure that what you are feeling when truing it is actually the spoke and nipple threading and not binding/twisting as you true it. Many of the Roval wheels come with inconsistent spoke lengths, even out of the box. I worked at a Specy dealer from 2014-2018, and it was common to have to replace spokes with shorter ones, as the nipple would be bottomed out on the spoke threads and while you could "true" it, it would spring back out of true because it wasn't actually threading down.
Your rim is also older, so take that into mind. Personally, I have rebuilt 2 older Roval Carbon rims onto different hubs, and they are still rolling great, and I have one other Roval rim in a box that I'm planning on doing the same to. But if any of them had given me a problem during the re-build I probably would've stopped right away.

***edit, also will benefit you to give a drop of lube to all the spoke/nipples and let it penetrate for a while to help make sure they aren't spinning together.
It appears that's what's happening, the nipple is bottoming out. Its a bladed spoke and I'm using a blade tool to hold the spoke while adjusting it.

I removed a nipple and it has an extra thick head is it necessary to use these style nipples?

All the spokes I'm having problems with are bladed, do they tend to stretch over time?
 

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It appears that's what's happening, the nipple is bottoming out. Its a bladed spoke and I'm using a blade tool to hold the spoke while adjusting it.

I removed a nipple and it has an extra thick head is it necessary to use these style nipples?

All the spokes I'm having problems with are bladed, do they tend to stretch over time?
I "think" they do, but I would want some other people (mikesee? Nyrr496?) to jump in with their thoughts as well.
When I rebuilt mine, I used standard nipples, but used nipple washers as well. I don't think you need the extra thick nipple head, I think they did that so that you could use either the external spoke wrench or the internal spoke wrench.
 
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