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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im looking to lower the seat height on my bike,i swapped out the seat tube for a straight one,but im looking to get a 24.my question is,would a 24 significantly reduce the seat height?and how much would it change the head angle?the bike is an IH SGS by the way,witha boxxer ride
 

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running the 24 will slack out your HA alot. I run one on my AC and it steers very slow. Another draw back is rock gardens. Man does it slow you down in the rough. WHats the HA on the SGS now? If you ran a 24 front and rear you could lower your seat without affecting the HA.
 

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it would lower ur seat height and allow u to manual more easily, it would help out on some really tight technical trails, but for free ride and really fast downhills it would slow u down and make the rocks and obsticles a lot more harsh. and ur BB (bottom bracket) would be lowered so ur clearence would suffer
 

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kona-tize me captain
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twomanywh33ls said:
it would lower ur seat height and allow u to manual more easily, it would help out on some really tight technical trails, but for free ride and really fast downhills it would slow u down and make the rocks and obsticles a lot more harsh. and ur BB (bottom bracket) would be lowered so ur clearence would suffer
hah i laugh at that, i run a stinky with an 888rc 26 up front and 24inch in the rear. my bike isnt that slacked out. the bb is a lil low but not enough to worry about. and if it does get in the way i just hop higher. through rockgardens im still fast as hell. its what i excell at. im faster on my bike then my boy on a k2 tirade, rockymountain switch, and vp free. they all run dual 26s. im able to accelerate quicker through stuff where the 24 makes up for everything. plus i can just truck my bike through stuff without havign to worry about going over the bars. i love ittt
 

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austinb89 said:
hah i laugh at that, i run a stinky with an 888rc 26 up front and 24inch in the rear. my bike isnt that slacked out. the bb is a lil low but not enough to worry about. and if it does get in the way i just hop higher. through rockgardens im still fast as hell. its what i excell at. im faster on my bike then my boy on a k2 tirade, rockymountain switch, and vp free. they all run dual 26s. im able to accelerate quicker through stuff where the 24 makes up for everything. plus i can just truck my bike through stuff without havign to worry about going over the bars. i love ittt
agreed - wheel size don't make a bike slow or fast - it's the rider riding the breaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the head angle is not to slack for a freeride bike...i do a mix of freeride and downhill,so i guess from what youve all said,i think ill go for it.i actually am not able to ride my bike till march because im at school...im also thinking about possibly just getting a new frame,but the wheel is the cost freiendly option.my seat post is alreadya ll th e way down.the frame is a medium,and i belong on a small.the small version of the SGS is probably still too tall,i need a 15 or 16".im 5'5"...5'6" on a good day,and i like a smaller feel...
 

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vexhex said:
agreed - wheel size don't make a bike slow or fast - it's the rider riding the breaks
But a larger rear wheel will roll through the rough better. Just like why less suspension is neccesary on a 29er. If the same rider jumped on a 26" rear wheel and on the next run jumped on the ane bike with a 24" rear wheel, physics suggests that a 26 heel would be faster
 

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noMAD man
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This is why I asked.

The Rose said:
running the 24 will slack out your HA alot. I run one on my AC and it steers very slow. Another draw back is rock gardens. Man does it slow you down in the rough. WHats the HA on the SGS now? If you ran a 24 front and rear you could lower your seat without affecting the HA.
Rose is right about running 24" wheels in technical and rocky terrain. They will hang up in rocky terrain noticeably easier than a 26". It is not an impossible deal, but the more "things" of any size that the bike has to run over with 24" wheels, the harder it will be. There's still a lot romance and loyalty in some camps for the 24" wheel, but it's fading as a good candidate for any all-around riding. For some forms of urban, jumping, or some specific FR stuff, I think it can still work fairly well. It's mainly a problem where the rear wheel has to hit and clear numerous sizeable obstructions...at least as long as it doesn't totally kill the handling geometry of the specific bike it's running on.
 

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Chillin the Most
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24" wheels can be [email protected] good, you just need the right tire. One that helps reduce scrub and has about the same OD as a 26". Sadly not many bikes could fit such a tire. Luckily my BigHit isn't one of them.


Oh BTW the tire I'm speaking of is the Arrow Wide Bite 24 x 3.0. I've ridden almost every variation of a 24 tire out and the Wide Bite is the fastest 24 tire I've ridden hands down. It's so good, I've decided not to give up on my BigHit and send it to pasture for a new ride.
 

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Ricky DH
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I went from a Super 8 with a 24 inch rear wheel to a M1 with 26ers. I'm a hell of a lot faster now. Maybe it's the bike, maybe it the lack of a 24 inch rear wheel, maybe it's both?? All I know is I'm better and faster on the 26's.
 

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on my foes i have 26 24 arrow tire in back. It is mos def faster out of cornors then when i was on 26 26 due to lower rotating mass.

but this has been beating to deaf. Really comes to matter of perference .

people will hate on anything that isnt the norm. Try it out for yourself.
 

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I run that set-up on my small SGS with a Boxxer, 26" in front and 24" rear wheel. I did it for standover issues, I'm 5'4 and race DH. My BF is 5'6 and has a small SGS also with the 26" rear and I don't see a huge difference in the geometry. It will bring your seat height and standover down.
 

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Why would it be harder to manual?

.WestCoastHucker. said:
actually, your clearance will still be the same seeing as how your frame size is still the same. and FWIW a 24" rear wheel makes it HARDER to manual....
I can't manual for shitz anyways but on a physics standpoint, the 24" brings the axis point (hub) to the pivot (tire contact) closer together. That's why tree huggin', granola eatin', hybrid drivin' 29er's can't/won't do wheelies.

But I could be wrong.
 

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Pro Crastinator
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i can't manual either, it's just what i've been told about switching a 26" bike to a 24" wheel. something about your body weight now being farther out off the circumference of the tire, something like now having a longer chainstay in theory. made sence when it was explained to me. so i could easily be the one who is wrong...
 
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