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mach 4sl has fox custom tune DWQD
Description: 2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Up, Evol SV, PTU, Pivot, Mach 4 SL, 190, 40, DCM, DRM, CMF, No Logo
Digressive damping is harsh on repetitive bumps
I know that but it's been my experience that both Rockshox and Fox are just harsh in general but that's just my opinion, I've had this shock on 2 bikes, the Mara Pro on another bike and each time was a significant upgrade, only bikes I've had that ride better than them are my Avalanche Downhill tuned bikes
 

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Quick small ride today on my new Enve M6 25mm riser bar and WOW love em
think I have them where I like them :) I hate setting up new gear for the OH what if I try this angle hahahah

smooths out the little vibrations I live in Phoenix near north mountain for those local or wondering what I was trying to dampen rough desert stuff so my hopes were confirmed ya could say :)
and the sleight rise enough over stock without radical change in feel

for sure the front end feels a touch lighter/taller in the sense of going up hills but keeping the stock stem length and really such a short dif in rise not a big deal to get over the front but its noticeable
glad I kept the stock length stem for me I would not want a shorter stem I think the front would be way to light on climbs for me and the stuff I ride on
and the flats and down hills feels so much better for me (important part FOR ME)
at 57 yr old 5’11” 175lb not racing or riding to hard just having fun but as I have said I am a roady at heart big time I ride mtn cause roads here in PHX freak me out with bad drivers :)

Side note on lockout :)
also had a quick 1.5 mile on pavement to the trail today and locked out the suspension for the coming home on pavement might start locking out more on that kinda stuff or ultra smoother gravel
the post a few back asking about that made me think OK flick flick
kinda makes me think I want to get some gravel wheels/tires and do some fire roads :) some aero clips and pretend I am doing the DK on the gravel bike I wanted :)
 

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I did two very different rides recently. I rode a loop of steep blue and black trails with some nasty roots and rocks. Rode them up and down. I had a butcher up front and eliminator in the rear and the bike climbed like a champ until I simply could not pedal because I ran out of steam then later handled the same trail down with no problems, this ride was definitely trail bike territory and most of the people out were on big travel bikes.

Today I changed the tires to the stock XC tires and did a 45 mile gravel ride and found some guys with “real” gravel bikes and didn’t have a problem hanging with them.

This bike is very versatile and capable in so many conditions. I didn’t really know it would be this versatile when I bought it. I wanted a bike that could be many things and I got it. I have two sets of wheels so I can ride it on the gravel routs and then turn around and ride black trails. The change in tread is all I need and the rest of the bike just keeps up.
 

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Here's the product page for each, with the listed weights I quoted:
Deluxe Select+ - RS-DLX-SELP-B2 - RockShox
SIDLuxe Ultimate - RS-SIDL-ULT-A1 - RockShox

They only list one weight/size for each model. Where are you seeing 5g difference?
I do apologize. I didnt realize that on the Evo Epic Comp and base model come with a Deluxe Select +. I thought it was the Sid luxe select + that comes on the Expert model. The Rockshox Sid luxe Select + to the Ultimate there is only a 5 gram difference according to Sram's website. The Deluxe Select +that came on my Epic Evo base model weighs 354g and if we take what Blkdoutindustries posted for the ultimate at 224g there is a 130g difference.

So if you took my Fact 11 size L frame that started out at 2051g (all hardware, rear axle, seat collar and shock), put the carbon shock extender / yoke (70g - 39g = -31g) plus the Rock Shox Sid luxe ultimate (354g - 224g = 130g) the total weight of my size large would be 1890g. If we than compare it to the S-works frameset in a size L (color green) that someone posted last week at 1860g, the difference is only 30g. So the real questions are if it is worth going from a Fact 11 to 12 going to improve the ride quality and to also save 30g?

Epic Evo base frameset 2051g
Carbon Yoke -31g
Sid luxe Ultimate -130g
----------------------------------------
New Weight 1890g

I posted already that I stripped the components off my frame (Epic Evo base model) and put them on a Framed Marquettte frameset and I sold it for $1650 so essentially I bought the Fact 11 frame for just over $2600. Now buying the yoke would be $115 plus the cost of the new Sid Luxe Ultimate shock $420 (you should be able to sell the old shock for around $200 but not able to sell the yoke in my opinion. Also, your local shop usually will give you a discount off full retail) you are all in at just over $2900 for a 30g heavier frameset and lower grade carbon but will save about $1000 from the S-works frameset. This is something to think about.
 

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I know the shimano spec’d evo’s come with the x100 series cranks (SLX/XTR comp/pro respectively), but Shimano cranks are unobtanium right now, I found a mildly used set of 8120- with the wider Q factor. Both the x100 and x120 series are boost, Shimano just classifies it as one “prioritizes efficiency” and the other “frame clearance”. Just wondering if the x120 will work or if I’ll be chasing gremlins...
 

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ARRIVED

Picked up my expert XL on Friday. I've had it out twice and my oh my what a sweet ride. Mind you I've been on my '06 Stumpjumper for the last 8 months while I've been waiting for it so a big difference. Sold my '19 Stumpjumper thinking the evo was only a few weeks away....wrong. But well worth the wait. Did swap out the seat and the bars to SQ Lab. The weight out the door was 26.5 lbs, that's as is with tubes and pedals and all.

1924762



I need to look at the brakes a bit, felt like there was a little more travel in the handles then I like so not sure if that is a reach adjustment, a bleed issue, or just the way they bite. Other than that I have nothing to complain about.
 

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Has anyone installed a Race Face crankset? I’m having a hard time determining if any spacers are needed. It came with one pre-installed on the non-drive side by the preload collar, but I already have one spacer installed with the BB. I’m wondering if I should remove the crank spacer.
 

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I know the shimano spec’d evo’s come with the x100 series cranks (SLX/XTR comp/pro respectively), but Shimano cranks are unobtanium right now, I found a mildly used set of 8120- with the wider Q factor. Both the x100 and x120 series are boost, Shimano just classifies it as one “prioritizes efficiency” and the other “frame clearance”. Just wondering if the x120 will work or if I’ll be chasing gremlins...
This is a little confusing because I thought the 8120 was XT boost, 9120 is XTR boost. Then, 7130, 8130, 9130 are all superboost.
I think you should be good with 8120. Comp comes with 7120. 7100, 8100, 9100 would be non-boost.
 

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This is a little confusing because I thought the 8120 was XT boost, 9120 is XTR boost. Then, 7130, 8130, 9130 are all superboost.
I think you should be good with 8120. Comp comes with 7120. 7100, 8100, 9100 would be non-boost.
I’m confusing terms, sorry. I’m thinking q-factor.
 

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Has anyone installed a Race Face crankset? I’m having a hard time determining if any spacers are needed. It came with one pre-installed on the non-drive side by the preload collar, but I already have one spacer installed with the BB. I’m wondering if I should remove the crank spacer.
I have RF SL cranks and have a spacer on both sides. The ring on the non drive side required very little spin before it was up against the BB. Without the spacer on the drive side the chainring was too close to the frame and the chain line was not in the middle of the cassette.
 

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I have RF SL cranks and have a spacer on both sides. The ring on the non drive side required very little spin before it was up against the BB. Without the spacer on the drive side the chainring was too close to the frame and the chain line was not in the middle of the cassette.
Thanks! So is that 3 spacers altogether? 1 on the inside of the BB, then 1 outside the BB on either side?
 

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This is a little confusing because I thought the 8120 was XT boost, 9120 is XTR boost. Then, 7130, 8130, 9130 are all superboost.
I think you should be good with 8120. Comp comes with 7120. 7100, 8100, 9100 would be non-boost.
Yeah it’s definitely confusing!

as you can see below

evo comp is 7100.

my understanding is they are all boost now but the 120 series just is a touch wider in q and chain, which is to say, it probably works?
Regardless I might have tracked down a 165 8100 crankset in the UK. I ordered it tonight tomorrow will tell if they actually have it in stock when they go to process it- fingers crossed.
Baby steps made tonight ...
1924806

unfortunately when shop thought they were sending me the Xt shifter it was actually a second Xt derailuer so I ended up with two of the same derailuer no shifter:/, back in the mail tomorrow!
 

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The Shimano *120 crank series, like you said, have a bigger Q-factor and will move the chainring outwards by 3 mm, giving a supposed better rear tire clearance, but I think the major effect will be the chainline, as it will be better towards the smaller cogs of the cassete but worse on the larger cogs. You should have that in mind and for some reason (maybe just availability at the time), all the Epic's with Shimano drivetrain come with *100 series installed...

The *120 series cranks are spec'ed as Boost only (148mm rear spacing) and the *100 series are Boost and non-Boost compatible (148 and 142mm spacing).

The *120 crank will work for sure on the Epic, the only donwside will be a less favorable chainline on the bigger cogs of the cassete...
 

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The Shimano *120 crank series, like you said, have a bigger Q-factor and will move the chainring outwards by 3 mm, giving a supposed better rear tire clearance, but I think the major effect will be the chainline, as it will be better towards the smaller cogs of the cassete but worse on the larger cogs. You should have that in mind and for some reason (maybe just availability at the time), all the Epic's with Shimano drivetrain come with *100 series installed...

The *120 series cranks are spec'ed as Boost only (148mm rear spacing) and the *100 series are Boost and non-Boost compatible (148 and 142mm spacing).

The *120 crank will work for sure on the Epic, the only donwside will be a less favorable chainline on the bigger cogs of the cassete...
perfect explanation. Considering I live in the bigger cogs (read:fat and slow) ill Be psyched if this 8100 crank comes through.
 

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I’ve been pretty interested in one of these for a while - I sold my previous bike back in June of 2020, and didn’t realize it’d be so tough to get something to replace it so I’ve been on my Crux (gravelly cx bike) exclusively for the past 8ish months.
1FEDD1FD-3CBC-4440-A0D0-B19798366D85.jpeg

Anyways, I rented one (Epic Evo Comp) today and hit up some Pisgah trails with it. I did Trace/Spencer/Fletcher, for anyone in the area that knows the trails. Overall, I thought it was a really confident descender, but I wasn’t wild about how it pedaled in the open setting. Since the shock (Rockshox Delux+ I think?) only had an open setting and a sorta closed setting, I did a lot of bobbing, especially on the fire road sections. I think that if I got one of these, that’d probably be the first thing I’d swap out.

I’d like to try out a Santa Cruz Blur, compare the pedaling performance and see how much I give up on descending. Problem is that nobody rents those around here.

Anyways, other mentions on the stock build - the four piston SLX brakes were awesome, and the Power saddle was also really comfortable. I might get one for my gravel bike. Also, the Shimano bottom of the barrel hubs weren’t bad either, that was a pleasant surprise.
 

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I’ve been pretty interested in one of these for a while - I sold my previous bike back in June of 2020, and didn’t realize it’d be so tough to get something to replace it so I’ve been on my Crux (gravelly cx bike) exclusively for the past 8ish months.
View attachment 1924967
Anyways, I rented one (Epic Evo Comp) today and hit up some Pisgah trails with it. I did Trace/Spencer/Fletcher, for anyone in the area that knows the trails. Overall, I thought it was a really confident descender, but I wasn’t wild about how it pedaled in the open setting. Since the shock (Rockshox Delux+ I think?) only had an open setting and a sorta closed setting, I did a lot of bobbing, especially on the fire road sections. I think that if I got one of these, that’d probably be the first thing I’d swap out.

I’d like to try out a Santa Cruz Blur, compare the pedaling performance and see how much I give up on descending. Problem is that nobody rents those around here.

Anyways, other mentions on the stock build - the four piston SLX brakes were awesome, and the Power saddle was also really comfortable. I might get one for my gravel bike. Also, the Shimano bottom of the barrel hubs weren’t bad either, that was a pleasant surprise.
Did you take the time to set the suspension up for your weight, as that could have a big effect on the bobbing?
 

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I’ve been pretty interested in one of these for a while - I sold my previous bike back in June of 2020, and didn’t realize it’d be so tough to get something to replace it so I’ve been on my Crux (gravelly cx bike) exclusively for the past 8ish months.
View attachment 1924967
Anyways, I rented one (Epic Evo Comp) today and hit up some Pisgah trails with it. I did Trace/Spencer/Fletcher, for anyone in the area that knows the trails. Overall, I thought it was a really confident descender, but I wasn’t wild about how it pedaled in the open setting. Since the shock (Rockshox Delux+ I think?) only had an open setting and a sorta closed setting, I did a lot of bobbing, especially on the fire road sections. I think that if I got one of these, that’d probably be the first thing I’d swap out.

I’d like to try out a Santa Cruz Blur, compare the pedaling performance and see how much I give up on descending. Problem is that nobody rents those around here.

Anyways, other mentions on the stock build - the four piston SLX brakes were awesome, and the Power saddle was also really comfortable. I might get one for my gravel bike. Also, the Shimano bottom of the barrel hubs weren’t bad either, that was a pleasant surprise.
I don’t have a bobbing issue with mine. I did a 45 mile gravel ride this last weekend and left the rear open the entire time. I do lock the fork when standing but seated it doesn’t bob much either. On dirt roads the rear just glides over the small bumps. When I’m pointed down on rough black trails the rear only gets close to full travel on the biggest hits. There is one 3 foot drop to flat that will get the full travel out of the shock, that is also about the biggest drop the bike is designed for. Maybe you needed more pressure in the shock, it is pretty stiff usually (compared to a long travel bike).
 

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@msrothwe I 2nd what the guys above me said. I had bobbing initially but once I got the pressure dialed in it's almost completely gone, and I always keep it wide open. The shock pressure that the Specialized Suspension Calculator says to use was wayyyy off, by about 50 psi in my case. I kept adding pressure and it kept pedaling better. I haven't gone too far with it but I'm close. The fork pressure recommendation was pretty much spot on, within 5 psi.

I would hold off on the Blur for now, it's about due for a redesign.
 
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