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2019 Top Fuel 9.8. Just dropped it off at LBS to see if Trek will warranty. They agree it does not look like a crash.
That'd be great if they warranty it. Of course it's up to the Trek factory to make the determination. Anyway, not that it's a big deal, but this is the 2020 thread, which is when the frame design changed from the earlier version like yours.
 

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Agree with 462 above. Damping is fairly firm, as appropriate for a "sort of race" bike IMO, and smaller VRs are not going to impact off the top feel much.

I went to a 3 position DPS. Open is valved a bit softer than the stock 2-position shock, and it suits me. Lever is a bit of a PITA to reach, since the shock has to be upside down, but I adjusted, and don't toggle it that much anyway.
Which rear shock did you get? I just brought home a 9.8 and want to eliminate the remote lockouts. Finding a fork is easy, finding a shock not so much.
 

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Why remove the lockout? Are you changing to the GRIP 2 damper?

Why remove the lockout? Is It because you are changing to the GRIP 2 damper?
What benefit do you feel you get by removing the lockout?
Thank you.
 

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I sent mine into fox and they de-remoted them. Cost about 500 (fork & shock) but worth it to get rid of that stuff.
I'm going to look into whether or not the same can be done with the RockShox SID stuff that came on mine. However, I'm thinking about putting a 130mm fork on there and if I can find a more subtle shock, I'd rather go that route and sell the stuff that came with the bike as a package, maybe to another Top Fuel owner.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,306
Which rear shock did you get? I just brought home a 9.8 and want to eliminate the remote lockouts. Finding a fork is easy, finding a shock not so much.
The same size and stroke Fox DPS in the "standard" 3-position lever version.

PM me if you want the 4-digit code.
 

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For the group, I've got the Kovee Pro stem that came with my 9.8 sitting here on my desk. Figure I'd see if any of the Top Fuel riders want it before I post it on the various sale/auction sites. It's 35mm clamp, 70mm long, 13 degree, flippable and BLENDR compatible. PM me if interested.
 

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Why remove the lockout?
For me it was because:
1) it never really seemed to be set up properly—the fork always felt partially locked out (small town bike shop was out of their league)
2) Didn’t like all the cables—it just looked ugly
3) I despised that gripshift thing on the left side—I want a stable surface to grip, not a slippery thing that rotates—the cable mount to the grip shift also interfered with my left index finger (it was uncomfortable)
4) I basically never used the lockout (not sure when I would ever want a full-rigid mountain bike?)—here in WI, it’s nonstop ups & downs...there’s no extended climbs where you might want it locked out
5) the retract spring in the fork ultimately got stretched from fiddling around with it and it was the last straw
 

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That won't do much to make the bike more supple on the top of the travel. Volume spacers work (mostly) on the end of travel. I'd mess around with the sag to see if you can get it to feel better. The shock tune on these bikes is pretty firm though. I am thinking of changing mine out this winter for the new Rockshox SidLuxe Ultimate to match my new Sid Ultimate fork.
my lbs said the new sid is stiffer then the stock shock, and requires more to open up. they did however mention running a 34t to change the suspension characteristics and reduce anti-squat
 

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Hey gang, last week my shock lost all its air during a ride. I've had similar things happen with forks and anda air spring service was all I needed. What are the chances this is the same situation? Also, can anyone point me to a rebuild kit. Fortunately it's my off season so I've got the time and don't need the bike. Thanks in advance.
 

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yea pull the can and inspect all the seals and rings. if none are torn coat them with slickoleum (cheaper by the bin direct than buying rebadged sram slick honey)

also make sure the schrader valve is tight with a valve core tool. dont over tighten tho.
 

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Chainsuck Protector?

So I am almost ready to order a 2021 TF, and I realize the frame does not have a chainsuck protector behind the chainring. Is this something I should be worried about? My other two carbon hardtails (2013 Superfly, 2019 Beargrease) have a metal piece on the chainstay in this area.

Got to wondering after seeing a couple of photos of chewed up frames when pivot bolt worked itself out.

thanks,

G.
 

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So I am almost ready to order a 2021 TF, and I realize the frame does not have a chainsuck protector behind the chainring. Is this something I should be worried about? My other two carbon hardtails (2013 Superfly, 2019 Beargrease) have a metal piece on the chainstay in this area.

Got to wondering after seeing a couple of photos of chewed up frames when pivot bolt worked itself out.

thanks,

G.
Chain suck does not happen on 1x drivetrain as it used on double and triple cranks. Cleaning the drivetrain with brush to get debris and gunk of after each ride does wonders too. Use light lube.....

Or cut a piece from tin can and glue it on or use peel and stick carbon patch...

Each should help...
 

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So I am almost ready to order a 2021 TF, and I realize the frame does not have a chainsuck protector behind the chainring. Is this something I should be worried about? My other two carbon hardtails (2013 Superfly, 2019 Beargrease) have a metal piece on the chainstay in this area.

Got to wondering after seeing a couple of photos of chewed up frames when pivot bolt worked itself out.

thanks,

G.
Not due to chain suck, but if you ever drop a chain it can get nasty with some chainrings.

I run shelter tape all around the exposed carbon of the DS Chainstay and ran it all the way behind the chainring. I cut it to fit with a razor blade. It has really saved the frame a few times from the chain and errant rocks.


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Chain suck does not happen on 1x drivetrain as it used on double and triple cranks.
Unfortunately it does, but mainly with cheaper rear derailleurs and riders who shift when they shouldn't (i.e. heavy torque going up a steep grade).



++1 for frame guard tape if anyone is ever worried.
 

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1910397


Frame up build. No lockouts. 24.2# with XR4s for winter, an XT cassette since you can’t get XTR in 10-45 currently, and a boat anchor stem (+75g) while I wait on a lock ring knockblock spacer. Should be about 23.5 with fast tires and an xtr cassette.

Big backcountry days and 50/100 mile races are what I’m going to use it for.
 

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super clean. extra decent weight with those tires. i run an Extralite stem on a supercaliber same colorway that works great. ~75 grams. or you could go Intend if the angles work for you. cinch that adapter clamp down goood. i cross hatched the inside of mine with a file to keep it from slipping.
 

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super clean. extra decent weight with those tires. i run an Extralite stem on a supercaliber same colorway that works great. ~75 grams. or you could go Intend if the angles work for you. cinch that adapter clamp down goood. i cross hatched the inside of mine with a file to keep it from slipping.
I’ve got a Syntace F109 sitting on my bench. Those lockring spacers aren’t available until March :/
 
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