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According to Bontrager, the spokes are DT Swiss Aerolite BLADED spokes (0.9 x 2.3). They are definitely bladed, not round spokes
I'm not sure about the accuracy of the Park Tension Meter, but according to their site, 18 on their gage = 187 kgf. I imagine as the spokes get thinner, the gage is less accurate.
Bottom line is that I evened out the spoke tension and increased it on the drive side from a range of 15-17 to a more uniform 18 (around 6% increase), but more importantly the non drive side went from a range of 10 -12 to a more uniform 14 (17% increase) and it largely solved the spoke noise. It will occasionally still make noise, but nothing like before.
Bontrager tech documents list the max tension as 148 kgf for the wheel. I imagine they use something better than a Park Tool tension meter to measure tension. I can only go by relative differences, since I don't think my gage is calibrated and absolute readings are at the mercy of the gage component's manufacturing tolerances.
Sorry for the necro reply but that is REALLY high. I dont like tensioning aerolites over ~15.5 on the park scale. Trek really shouldnt have built these rears on aerolite spokes. Hell even dt swiss does aeroCOMPs on the drive side on many of their builds.
 

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So I got my top fuel frame only and have tried to install two different 30mm BB's on it.

On both BB's when I install the drive side bearing it binds up and feels very draggy.The non-drive bearing spins smooth when installed. I repeated the installation twice with a cane creek BB and a hope BB. Same result every time. Anyone have this problem? I'm wondering if my BB shell is ovalized or otherwise out of spec.

I don't typically have problems with press fit BB's but this is making me wish they'd go threaded.
Try a bbinfinite bottom bracket. Precision machined one piece bb and they use slick 40x10x30 bearings.
 

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With ya on that one.
The new Pivot Mach 4 SL fits everything I wanted the top fuel to be changed to and it didn't happen. Not pulling the trigger till I demo a Top Fuel and see how the P1 comes out.
Did you ride and compare the new trek top fuel with the Pivot Mach 4sl or trail 429? Compared to any others?
Also how is the Bont dropper compared to the FOX Transfer in speed and durability...?
How is the shock and fork on the 9.8? Smooth, durable, adjustability, harsh?
Any thing I should know about expensive or more often repairing/maintenance, or proprietary parts, etc. compared to others?
I live between the Appalachian mountains and the Atlantic Ocean so I have access to all kinds of different trails. Not the Rocky Mountains, Utah, Arizona...
Do have some rocky and tight switchbacks on trails, and some not.
NOT going to bike parks, or ski resorts.
NOT looking for a pedal striking bike that needs me to spend more money on a short crankset!
Any of you have compared?
I assume I am a Xl being a hair under 6’1” tall and 175-180 geared up rider.
Thank you
 

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What are the dimensions of the shock mounting hardware for a Fox shock and Top Fuel Frame?

Thnx
 

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I installed a regular Fox 3-position DPS on mine. I really like the middle position for general trail riding. On the OEM 2-position shock, I felt like I had to run higher than optimal pressure to get the pedaling feel I wanted.

It took a few rides to get used to reaching down there for the lever, though -- but I mostly leave it in the middle position.
I like the idea of ditching the cable operated simultaneous F + R lockout and going to independent 3 position lockouts for the fork and shock. I imagine this would also save a few grams and clean up the cable routing a lot!

@kosmo I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,286
I like the idea of ditching the cable operated simultaneous F + R lockout and going to independent 3 position lockouts for the fork and shock. I imagine this would also save a few grams and clean up the cable routing a lot!

@kosmo I tried to send you a PM but your mailbox is full.
I kept the remote on the fork out of laziness. Happy. Mailbox purged. PM away!
 

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Also, the new tires are a huge improvement over the XR3’s...I bought Teravail Ehline 2.5 for the rear and Teravail Honcho 2.6 for the front—both in “durable“ casing. They’re not light, but they stick to the trail like Velcro and the extra volume gives more ground clearance, comfort, and float over sand.
Hello, may I ask how are you liking the Teravail tires? I'm using XR4 F and SE4 R, both 2.4, and yours is one of the combinations I'm considering. I hope they have good grip on steep and hard terrain.
 

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Hello, may I ask how are you liking the Teravail tires? I'm using XR4 F and SE4 R, both 2.4, and yours is one of the combinations I'm considering. I hope they have good grip on steep and hard terrain.
Here in WI it’s more sandy & narrow with a lot of short up/down. What I wanted was lots of volume/float and “bite” for the sandy stuff and these have delivered. They are also quite “sturdy” (read: heavy)...I’m 190 lb, so that’s a bonus for me, but I’d also assume the tough sidewalls would be good for rocky terrain.
 

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Do you aluminium TF owners get strange metal clapping sound when hitting rocky trails downhill?
Can’t get the source of it and its imposible to replicate it at home...
Maybe internal cables hitting the frame - seams to loud for it
or Recon fork strange topping up sound...
It gets louder with trail geting rough.
Im on a carbon frame but found once I went to Shimano 1x12 with the clutch system, my chain slap basically disappeared. It was VERY noticeable with Sram NX
 

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So I got my top fuel frame only and have tried to install two different 30mm BB's on it.

On both BB's when I install the drive side bearing it binds up and feels very draggy.The non-drive bearing spins smooth when installed. I repeated the installation twice with a cane creek BB and a hope BB. Same result every time. Anyone have this problem? I'm wondering if my BB shell is ovalized or otherwise out of spec.

I don't typically have problems with press fit BB's but this is making me wish they'd go threaded.

apparently they all run tight. they told me my 40.8mm ID BB Shell was within spec. Actual spec is 41 +/- 0.05mm. Hambini would have a field day.

also they don't strip the paint under the seatpost clamp. Even Specialized does this.

you need to burnish the shell with sandpaper very carefully or visit warranty land. one of the two.
 

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Finally back in the mtb saddle with a TF

Very recently got back into mountain biking after a 6-7 year hiatus coinciding with the birth of our first kid, leaving me no time to do more than one hobby :) (I'd been a roadie only in the ensuing years because it's easier to do right out our front door. In any case, I went with a Top Fuel 9.9 XO1, but upgraded to AXS and added a Quarq power meter (see roadie). The TF AXS model had a long wait so I just bought the XO1 and upgraded since there was a biking program through work where I got a huge discount (33%) on gear. Been on about a dozen or so rides and love it - big upgrade from my 11 year old alloy Cannondale hardtail! Anything you folks think I should keep in mind?

 

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Pizzaiolo Americano
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Very recently got back into mountain biking after a 6-7 year hiatus coinciding with the birth of our first kid, leaving me no time to do more than one hobby :) (I'd been a roadie only in the ensuing years because it's easier to do right out our front door. In any case, I went with a Top Fuel 9.9 XO1, but upgraded to AXS and added a Quarq power meter (see roadie). The TF AXS model had a long wait so I just bought the XO1 and upgraded since there was a biking program through work where I got a huge discount (33%) on gear. Been on about a dozen or so rides and love it - big upgrade from my 11 year old alloy Cannondale hardtail! Anything you folks think I should keep in mind?

I'd mark all of your pivot bolts with a silver sharpie. That way, if they move at all, you can tell. There have been a few folks on here that have had theirs randomly back out.
 

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Interesting - can you ELI5? :D
I took a sharpie and a ruler and made a 90 degree line on the entire bolt and nut (where applicable). If they move, I'll be able to tell because the lines are no longer at 90 degrees. If any of your pivot bolts come out, you are going to be buying an expensive replacement at best and may have frame damage at worst. Your first instinct may be to torque them with a wrench before your ride but, this is a bad idea because you can break the loctite bond (on the bolts from factory) and make the problem worse...
 

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so has anyone done anything to the rear shock to make it more supple? do i remove a volume spacer?
That won't do much to make the bike more supple on the top of the travel. Volume spacers work (mostly) on the end of travel. I'd mess around with the sag to see if you can get it to feel better. The shock tune on these bikes is pretty firm though. I am thinking of changing mine out this winter for the new Rockshox SidLuxe Ultimate to match my new Sid Ultimate fork.
 

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What do you think of this? Found it after my ride yesterday on the back of the seat tube. I didn't crash, don't see any evidence of a strike, and it would be a hard place to strike directly anyway. I can tell it is delaminating by the dead sound when tapping on it. Could this be a frame defect? Love this bike and I am hoping there is some path forward.

 

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Discussion Starter #1,298 (Edited)
so has anyone done anything to the rear shock to make it more supple? do i remove a volume spacer?
Agree with 462 above. Damping is fairly firm, as appropriate for a "sort of race" bike IMO, and smaller VRs are not going to impact off the top feel much.

I went to a 3 position DPS. Open is valved a bit softer than the stock 2-position shock, and it suits me. Lever is a bit of a PITA to reach, since the shock has to be upside down, but I adjusted, and don't toggle it that much anyway.
 

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What do you think of this? Found it after my ride yesterday on the back of the seat tube...
What frame is that? It doesn't look like a 2020 or 21 Top Fuel. At any rate, you need a new frame one way or another...or if that's not in the cards, a repair.
 

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What frame is that? It doesn't look like a 2020 or 21 Top Fuel. At any rate, you need a new frame one way or another...or if that's not in the cards, a repair.
2019 Top Fuel 9.8. Just dropped it off at LBS to see if Trek will warranty. They agree it does not look like a crash.
 
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