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Hard funkin´ Kraut
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Oh but the Spitfire corners incredibly! Absolutely rails turns. My bike shop says it’s because the linkage stays high in its travel. As you can see I’m stoked.
Oh yes it does!
I rode a V2 MY2013 Spitfire and the KS-Link from the start has this suspension-feel. Now, after a 4 year retreat from biking I bought a used V2 MY18 Spitfire frame. Would have loved to get a V3 frame, but unfortunately some parts are not compatible ... anyway ... good to be back on a Spitfire soon. :thumbsup::)
 

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Finally got the bike from the shop the other day. I swapped out the SRAM Guide R brakes (terrible things - get RS or RSC if you get the choice) for Shimano MT520 4 pot brakes. MUCH better for the price. Also swapped out the 125mm dropper for a OneUp 170mm dropper - I have long legs so JUST managed to squeeze this in before it hit the pivot bolt. Other specs are SRAM NX 11sp drivetrain. Pike Ultimate 150mm and Super Deluxe Ultimate. Kenda Hellkat Pro front tyre and Kenda Nevegal Pro rear tyre. I'm sold on these tyres! Super awesome. One thing that hit me about this bike from the start is how light it is. Not sure of exact weights but the frame must be pretty light. This is the most fun bike I've ever ridden.
 

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Got my V3 frame a week or so back and getting around to building it up now. For running brake hose and shifter housing, does it matter much which one is on top as they enter the frame port?

Also, do you cross the shifter housing behind the lower shock mount or in front before it enters the downtube? Any close up pics would be rad!
 

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Not sure if you can really see in the pic, but sitting on the bike, the the shifter goes from right bar, around to the left of frame. rear brake and dropper post from left bar to right of frame, with the dropper 'underneath' or more like in front of the brake line.
 

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I've just realised that from what you say about brake and shifter being on the same side, that I'm in Aus and you're probably in America, so we'd be opposite.
 

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I've just realised that from what you say about brake and shifter being on the same side, that I'm in Aus and you're probably in America, so we'd be opposite.
Thanks for the response. I was trying to figure out not which side left or right of the frame for cabling, but if there was any difference to the fore/aft holes on the little ports. Didn't seem to matter though as I got it sorted out.

Little tricky accessing the ports near the shock, but not too bad.

Sounds like you've been digging yours so far. I'm looking forward to finishing up my build and getting out on it this weekend.
 

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Cables and hoses should always enter frame on the opposite side of the headtube than where they are mounted to bars, with enough spare to allow bars to spin at least 180 in case of a crash.

A really neat trick is to use cable shrink wrap or even just electrical tape to wrap pairs of hoses that run from same side of the bar together... keeps things nice and clean and rattle free.

Remember to follow the cable routing on the banshee website FAQ page.
 

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Cables and hoses should always enter frame on the opposite side of the headtube than where they are mounted to bars, with enough spare to allow bars to spin at least 180 in case of a crash.

A really neat trick is to use cable shrink wrap or even just electrical tape to wrap pairs of hoses that run from same side of the bar together... keeps things nice and clean and rattle free.

Remember to follow the cable routing on the banshee website FAQ page.
Thanks for the reply. I guess I did a really bad job of wording my original question, though!

I know cables/hoses from the left side of the bar go into the right side of the frame and vice versa. My question is moot now as I figured it out, but I'll reword again in case someone else is wondering (and because I was an English major in college and I need to improve my own writing!)

If you're looking at the frame from the side, should the brake hose or the shifter/dropper cable be in the most forward, closest to the headtube, of the two angled grooves in the port?

I realize after building up the frame that it doesn't matter — both grooves are the same size and there's no functional difference on cable/hose placement between the fore/aft groove.

Thanks again for everyone who tried to help!
 

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Does anyone have any detailed information on how the split top tube on the V3 models is formed?
I know their website says these tubes are all hydro formed. But I’d be interested to know how they take a single tube, split it into two, and then make the two split portions a complete tube again.


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Does anyone have any detailed information on how the split top tube on the V3 models is formed?
I know their website says these tubes are all hydro formed. But I’d be interested to know how they take a single tube, split it into two, and then make the two split portions a complete tube again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Magic ;)
 

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Swapped out the 140mm 29" mullet to try the bike as it was referenced in the geo chart, with a 150mm 27.5" 37mm offset fork

IMG_5564 (1).jpg

The silver pike compliments the frame details nicely I think :)

As for how it rides, it's noticeably more nimble now and I love it. Probably going to try it with a 140mm too in the near future
 

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Hard funkin´ Kraut
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Swapped out the 140mm 29" mullet to try the bike as it was referenced in the geo chart, with a 150mm 27.5" 37mm offset fork...
135mm rear, 140-150mm front seem to make a perfectly balanced 27.5 Spitfire. Love it! :thumbsup:
I´m somehow really not shure what to think about this "mullet-hype" ... ?!?
 

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135mm rear, 140-150mm front seem to make a perfectly balanced 27.5 Spitfire. Love it! :thumbsup:
I´m somehow really not shure what to think about this "mullet-hype" ... ?!?
I have an older 150mm Pike with 51mm offset on my Spitfire and it is exactly that — perfectly balanced. Up, down, sideways, this bike is a hoot.
 

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Any comments on the climbing efficiency of the spit? I'm looking at the V3 5010 and Evil calling. If it pedals close to the 5010 or something like a DW bike the spitfire would be a no brainer for me
 

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Any comments on the climbing efficiency of the spit? I'm looking at the V3 5010 and Evil calling. If it pedals close to the 5010 or something like a DW bike the spitfire would be a no brainer for me
I can't compare it to either of those bikes, but I will say it's certainly not holding me back from climbing in any way. I'm coming off a 2015 Norco Sight and the Spitty, while probably a touch heavier, seems more efficient.

I think it's a combo of the geometry being dialed along with the suspension. On long, grinder climbs the seated position is really dialed for spinning and I think the longer wheelbase compared to my other bikes also helps with keeping it trucking along both up and down.

The suspension on the Spitfire is active when it needs to be, firm when it needs to be. I've been consistently more successful onboard this bike on a couple of the more techy pitches in my hood than any other bike.

I'm not chasing any climbing KOMs — if you are, this might not be the bike for that. But I'd still call it a very good climber for an aggressive trail bike.
 

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Anyone running a dhx2 on a spitfire?

I just bought a frame and looking to swap for a coil shock.

Will it fit?

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