Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,176 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What do you think best shock for the 2018 Altitude will be once the full range of shocks in metric sizes becomes available?

TF Tuned guys confirmed today that they can create me a 210x55 coil shock, from the 8.5' x 2.5' Öhlins TTX 22 M14 series shock (502lb spring for rider weight 180lb) and that it would work really nicely with the 2018 Altitude suspension. No offset bushings, so no warranty invalidation! A cool comment they mentioned when they looked at the rise / rate / progression of the altitude, was that they thought the curves were pretty much what every other manufacturer is attempting to achieve just now and they thought that Rocky had it spot on. Apparently the mod is quite straightforward for Ohlin's approved guys to do. On the altitude they believe the Ohlins TTX 22 will outperform the ?DHX2?, ?DPX2?, Float X2 and DPS Factory.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
8.5x2.5" Fox DHX2 coil with one offset bush. Much like the last altitude, the stock format is far from the best iteration. Hence why the EWS teams runs a long shock and 170mm fork.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
8.5x2.5" Fox DHX2 coil with one offset bush. Much like the last altitude, the stock format is far from the best iteration. Hence why the EWS teams runs a long shock and 170mm fork.
Where is your ride9 chip with this setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Cleavage Of The Tetons
Joined
·
5,972 Posts
Anyone running coil over shocks on your Altitude?
Curious what people are running, and their impressions.
Considering a new toy...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,276 Posts
Anyone knows in what ride 9 position a long shocked altitude would be.
I don't own a 2018 model but my LBS mechanic has a long shocked one and it's fine in neutral or slack.

And I don't see how warranty is an issue if you don't tell them 😂
 

·
Cleavage Of The Tetons
Joined
·
5,972 Posts
Well, for anyone looking, I have a near mint Cane Creek Double Barrel for sale, in its original box/etc. 210x 55mm.
Thinking $400 shipped?
Gonna put it on eBay for $450.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
If it is like the long-shocked Instinct BC Edition, it would be in position 9 (steep).
I saw something on the Rocky Mountain Bicycles Owner club on FB that said Enduro pros who used the Altitude long shocked setting #3.
For running the long shock (8.5x2.5) offset bushings were also required.
Hi mates, sorry for bump this but I got a few questions on this mod (2018 PP altitude)

1. What end of the shock do you need to fit the offset? Inwards or outwards?
2.Whats the head angle then?

For the first question I’m the RM powerplay facebook group and many has done this mod, none of them mention the offset bushing

For the second question, they told once you do this mod you need to slack either 29er either more travel to compensate again so I need an accurate angle if possible

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Offset bushings slacken the head angle by approximately half a degree per end. However, as we aren't using a stock shock that isn't going to be the case. In fact, I think you'll need to do both ends to maintain roughly the same head angle as you had before. A longer shock would raise BB and steepen the head angle, and the offset bushings are merely trying to counteract that in this case - not provide any geometry adjustment on their own.

So you would be putting them on both ends. However, as you would be changing many variables at the same time - I'd recommend maybe doing one at a time or have the ability to change them out on your own and try it with one or both at different times and see what you like. Changing bushings is pretty easy to do yourself.

You would want to replicate a shorter shock, so the offsets should place the bolts as close to each other as possible - this is the standard way for offset bushings to go in anyway, and over a decent period of time depending on fit, they tend to rotate to this alignment regardless of what you do.

If people are running an 8.5x2.5 without any modification... it MIGHT be ok in position 1 which would replicate one of the steeper positions, 8 or 9. Think of how the longer shock goes in the bike and what it does to the geometry.

For the second question, they told once you do this mod you need to slack either 29er either more travel to compensate again so I need an accurate angle if possible

I'm not quite understanding what you are asking here, sorry. If I understand correctly, they are saying you need to slacken the bike out, right? Because the longer shock on its own steepens the head angle and raises the BB.

That's the whole purpose of running offset bushings in this case - to maintain the original geometry as close as you can. It does make sense to bump up to a 170mm fork out front to match the back - that's what the pros did when they ran this mod.


To put it in perspective, consider the Instinct BC and regular edition. Running the longer shock and fork on the Instinct BC ends up with almost the same geometry, but a higher bottom bracket. The idea of running the offset bushings (one or both) and a 10mm taller fork (rather than the 20mm difference on the instinct BC from model years 2017-2019) is to get the longer travel you want without putting your BB in the sky.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Offset bushings slacken the head angle by approximately half a degree per end. However, as we aren't using a stock shock that isn't going to be the case. In fact, I think you'll need to do both ends to maintain roughly the same head angle as you had before. A longer shock would raise BB and steepen the head angle, and the offset bushings are merely trying to counteract that in this case - not provide any geometry adjustment on their own.

So you would be putting them on both ends. However, as you would be changing many variables at the same time - I'd recommend maybe doing one at a time or have the ability to change them out on your own and try it with one or both at different times and see what you like. Changing bushings is pretty easy to do yourself.

You would want to replicate a shorter shock, so the offsets should place the bolts as close to each other as possible - this is the standard way for offset bushings to go in anyway, and over a decent period of time depending on fit, they tend to rotate to this alignment regardless of what you do.

If people are running an 8.5x2.5 without any modification... it MIGHT be ok in position 1 which would replicate one of the steeper positions, 8 or 9. Think of how the longer shock goes in the bike and what it does to the geometry.




I'm not quite understanding what you are asking here, sorry. If I understand correctly, they are saying you need to slacken the bike out, right? Because the longer shock on its own steepens the head angle and raises the BB.

That's the whole purpose of running offset bushings in this case - to maintain the original geometry as close as you can. It does make sense to bump up to a 170mm fork out front to match the back - that's what the pros did when they ran this mod.


To put it in perspective, consider the Instinct BC and regular edition. Running the longer shock and fork on the Instinct BC ends up with almost the same geometry, but a higher bottom bracket. The idea of running the offset bushings (one or both) and a 10mm taller fork (rather than the 20mm difference on the instinct BC from model years 2017-2019) is to get the longer travel you want without putting your BB in the sky.
j-t-c thanks for the detailed answer men!

The offset concern is mainly for keep the ride9 working as if it was on the pos.1 ... if you don’t put offset bushes aside of all that you said a 216x63 shock works effectively in pos.1 or is just a pos.9 enlarged?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Offset bushings slacken the head angle by approximately half a degree per end. However, as we aren't using a stock shock that isn't going to be the case. In fact, I think you'll need to do both ends to maintain roughly the same head angle as you had before. A longer shock would raise BB and steepen the head angle, and the offset bushings are merely trying to counteract that in this case - not provide any geometry adjustment on their own.

So you would be putting them on both ends.

You would want to replicate a shorter shock, so the offsets should place the bolts as close to each other as possible - this is the standard way for offset bushings to go in anyway, and over a decent period of time depending on fit, they tend to rotate to this alignment regardless of what you do.

If people are running an 8.5x2.5 without any modification... it MIGHT be ok in position 1 which would replicate one of the steeper positions, 8 or 9. Think of how the longer shock goes in the bike and what it does to the geometry.




I'm not quite understanding what you are asking here, sorry. If I understand correctly, they are saying you need to slacken the bike out, right? Because the longer shock on its own steepens the head angle and raises the BB.

That's the whole purpose of running offset bushings in this case - to maintain the original geometry as close as you can. It does make sense to bump up to a 170mm fork out front to match the back - that's what the pros did when they ran this mod.
j-t-c thanks for the detailed answer men!

The offset concern is mainly for keep the ride9 working as if it was on the pos.1 ... if you don’t put offset bushes aside of all that you said a 216x63 shock works effectively in pos.1 or is just a pos.9 enlarged?

If you don't use offset bushings and do not add a longer fork, once you add the 8.5x2.5 shock the bike will have a higher bottom bracket, steeper seat tube angle, and steeper head angle. The offset bushings try to counteract the changes brought about from adding the longer shock by moving the mounting bolts closer to where they were originally.

Without doing this and only adding the longer shock, your head angle will get steeper and your bottom bracket will get taller. To be perfectly honest I'm not sure by how much. But seeing as an offset bushing can make a half degree difference, I'd assume the 6mm difference brought about by the larger shock will steepen the head angle by at least a full degree.

Now that I think about it, I think the altitude has rocky mountains bearing eyelets. In which case, you can only add one offset bushing without coming up with your own mounting solution. So that is what I'd do - just add the one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
If you don't use offset bushings and do not add a longer fork, once you add the 8.5x2.5 shock the bike will have a higher bottom bracket, steeper seat tube angle, and steeper head angle. The offset bushings try to counteract the changes brought about from adding the longer shock by moving the mounting bolts closer to where they were originally.

Without doing this and only adding the longer shock, your head angle will get steeper and your bottom bracket will get taller. To be perfectly honest I'm not sure by how much. But seeing as an offset bushing can make a half degree difference, I'd assume the 6mm difference brought about by the larger shock will steepen the head angle by at least a full degree.

Now that I think about it, I think the altitude has rocky mountains bearing eyelets. In which case, you can only add one offset bushing without coming up with your own mounting solution. So that is what I'd do - just add the one.
Thanks again buddy ... sorry that I ask again but you forget to answer ... without the offset a longer shock keeps the leverage ratio of the stock shock on pos.1 or like I said is just a pos.9 to 7 with longer travel? I try to eyeball figure on my bike but is so subtle to say that way ... I read it somewhere you need the offset to keep leverage but on FB group lot of people do this mod without any bushings ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
The offset will keep your leverage ratio closer to stock, as it gets the shock in a closer position to what Rocky intended. This will be true regardless of if you are in position 1 or position 9. The bushing will be closer to stock as far as the leverage ratio goes.


I think most people aren't going to be able to tell subtle differences in leverage ratios. I know I can't. I can feel geometry pretty well, but progression is something I've always struggled to really feel a difference on unless it is a drastic difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
The offset will keep your leverage ratio closer to stock, as it gets the shock in a closer position to what Rocky intended. This will be true regardless of if you are in position 1 or position 9. The bushing will be closer to stock as far as the leverage ratio goes.


I think most people aren't going to be able to tell subtle differences in leverage ratios. I know I can't. I can feel geometry pretty well, but progression is something I've always struggled to really feel a difference on unless it is a drastic difference.
Really? Spend some time on pos.9 and then move to 1 ... don’t know if drastic but men, it’s very noticeable.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top