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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently decided I was going to service my shock myself. I ended up having to take the shock back apart and when I did I had one of the small washers come out of the shim stack. I thought I knew where it came from and put it back, but I might have been wrong. I put the shock back together and aired it up. It moved smoothly, but felt stiffer than usual. Rock Shox recommends between 160-170 for this shock for my weight. I usually run it at 160 or just below.
That puts my at 25% sag. I took the bike out for a ride and the pressure had dropped to 150. I pumped it back up and went out on the ride. The shock felt stiff. it would move, but seemed stiff. I could only get maybe 2/3s of the travel out of it. I used to get almost all of it on a hard ride.
Could one of these small washers make that much difference in the wrong place? I am not 100% it is even on the right side of the shim stack.

I have not been able to find a good picture of the 2017 Monarch Rt3 shim stack laid out. There are lots of pictures, but they are all different. I need to the M-L tune of this shock. I would even buy a new shim stack if I could actually find them available anywhere just to make sure its in the right place.

also I think I have the IFP pumped up to the 300+ that RS suggests, but when I disconnect it there is always a puff of air. If I attached the pump back the pressure sits at 250. This wouldn't cause the shox to be stiffer than it was could it?

I could really use some of the knowledge on this forum to fix this.
 

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This is unlikely to be a shim stack issue as most of the oil flow is through the shaft in these shocks.

The air pressure drop when you reconnect the pump is totally normal as you are increasing volume so that’s fine.

Can you cycle the damper through its whole stroke by hand before installing the air can? How much oil is inside the can?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Inside the air can? 1 ml before install and 1 ml after. The IFP is completely full.

I would have to de-air it to double check, but I am pretty sure I was able to cycle it with no air in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was finally able to check to see if the shock cycles through the whole travel. It does. It goes all the way down to the hard stop which is about 1/2 in from the end of the shaft. That is where it traveled to when it was new so its using all the travel.

So would the IFP being at the wrong pressure affect this? I wouldn't think so.

You don't think the shim stack could cause this? Doesn't it affect the flow through the shaft?

What else could cause this? Everything inside the shock was clean and immaculate. It didn't even need the overhaul. I changed every oring except the one held in by the spring on the damper shaft internals. I used the 7wt fluid in the ifp and made sure it was full just like the manual said. everything is lubed and seems to run smoothly it just feels stiff.

Actually I don't think this has anything to do with it, but I could be wrong. I put it together and then it sat for a week after I set sag and everything and when I first pushed down on the bike while pushing it the shock was basically locked out. Once I put my foot on the pedal and put some weight on it then it started moving and has seemed smooth since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ended up talking to a service center and they recommended to lessen the pressure in the IFP. The service manual says to take it to 350. I lowered it to 250 and the shock seems much better. I still couldn't use full travel, but I was just bouncing on the bike as hard as I could. It felt much better. I have read on the RockShox they say not to adjust this. If adjusting the IFP pressure to 250 means it works like it should then I would have to assume the shock was never at 350 psi for the IFP like the service manual says. Anybody have any experience with this?
 

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If you put a shim into wrong place it can definitely affect the damping. And the oil that goes through the shaft also passes the shims. If you doubt that the shims are not correctly ordered definitely check them out. I have used lower IFP on this shock but for the purpose of better sensitivity. I would they that there was small effect. Probably wouldn’t help in your case. I’m not sure but if the IFP depth is wrong it might also cause similar problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I do not have the vice thing to clamp down on the IFP, but I have a digital caliper and got it set to 60.2mm then put everything together, removed the damper controls and realized I had to take it all back apart. When I took it all back apart I checked the IFP depth and it was at alike 60.35 so it should be close. If I could find a 2017 shim stack diagram I would pull it all back apart and check it, but I can't.
 
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