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With the M+ I have to wind in the rebound more since it's a light tune. I feel that the M+, although it is a light compression tune feels like it has more high speed compression that the RT3, (spikey on hard impacts). Just yesterday I put out a few emails to service center's in my area about further reducing the compression damping but I haven't got an answer yet.

So far I would say the M+ L/L is better in that it does not fade on long downhill runs, but it does not otherwise perform any better that the stock RT3. I'l like to try a CCDB coil but it's a big expense.
Thank you for your thoughts. Is the M+ in fact identical to the regular monarch with the addition of the piggyback to mitigate fading on long descents? While I do have long downhills, more weight is not that welcome when I might be pedaling 4k+ vertical in a day.
 

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Thank you for your thoughts. Is the M+ in fact identical to the regular monarch with the addition of the piggyback to mitigate fading on long descents? While I do have long downhills, more weight is not that welcome when I might be pedaling 4k+ vertical in a day.
They are basically the same afaik, maybe internals are different?.

I haven't weighed them but I can't imagine there is much difference.
 

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I’m looking at the same one. Let me know how you like it!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So, I picked the Troy up last Thursday and I've had a couple of rides on it. Bit of background: I'm 5'10" and after riding both the medium and large frames at my shop (2018 NX builds) I ordered a large. According to Devinci's chart, that's on the bottom end of the heights the large fits but I found the cockpit of the medium I rode quite cramped and the large felt good right away. Still tons of standover for my 31" inseam. I'm close to 200lbs kitted up. I set the sag front and rear to 30% and the rebound to my liking. I fooled around a bit with the compression damping on the fork and it seems best at 2 or 3 clicks. Both the fork and shock have the stock token/spacer arrangements (for now anyway).

My trails are rooty, rocky and there's no shortage of old school tech. Short punchy ups and steep gnarly downs. Usually wet. And wet it was for my first couple of rides. I will say right now that I was flat out floored by how well this bike goes up things. It is an absolute goat. My old Tracer was no slouch for a 6" bike but the Troy is in a different world altogether. It's very planted and stable, and rolls over stuff much better than the Tracer does. There is less tendency for the front end to lift on steep technical ups and the rear wheel doesn't get hung up on rocks and stuff. After the first couple of climbing sections I was thinking to myself that even if the Troy gave up a bit of capability going down, the improvement in climbing ability would be worth it anyway. I had some reservations going from 160mm to 140.

Turns out that this wasn't an issue. At all. The Troy is an excellent descender. The suspension is smooth and stable and feels very well sorted on rough rocky descents at speed. The rear end is really, really solid feeling. I'm coming from a standard 135mm QR rear wheel on the Tracer so this stands to reason. It accelerates on the downs much better than the Tracer did. It feels like the bike is saying "come on, let me go!!" The faster I went the better it felt. Very confidence inspiring.

It's also very very quiet even with the aluminum frame. Even the brakes are dead quiet, which is not something I've ever experienced with Avid brakes before. The build is pretty well sorted and the only things I don't like are the dropper remote (will replace with a Raceface one probably) and the brake levers. I've been using Hopes for the last 6 or 7 years so I'm spoiled by that. I'm sure I will get used to it and if the Guides remain quiet and smooth I won't bother to upgrade them.

My only real beef with the bike is the BB height. It's almost 3/4" lower than that on the Tracer and it's definitely quite pedal strike-y on our terrain. I may experiment with flipping to the high position and maybe I will put a 160mm air spring in the fork to bump it up a bit. That said, I recognize that the low BB contributes to the stable feel of the bike so I'm not sure I want to fool with it too much. I will just have to step up my ratcheting game. :D

It's a lot of bike for $3k CAD. I'm very happy with it so far.
 

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I'd be interested to see how people are running their suspension. I'm not getting near full travel (no volume reducers installed) but any softer and my climbing position suffers and pedal strikes are common.


Rider: 180lb
Pressure: 220psi, on my pump
Sag: 33%
Travel Used: 39mm
Rebound: 1/2 way on Monarch+ L/L. 3 clicks on stock Monarch RT3.
If you don't mind my inputs.

Weight: 63kg/138LBS
Previous stock Monarch:
PSI: ??? (cant remember)
Sag: 35%
Bottom out rings: 3
Rebound: somewhere in the middle
Feel: 30% sag feels harsh at the top. 35% feels perfect, but may blow through travel (thats why the 3 Bottom out rings)

Current FOX Float X2 CS
PSI: 135
Sag 33%
Damping: Generally low
Bottom out spacers: 2
Feeling:
Transforms the bike into to a Mini-DH rig.
very minor Pedal bob.
No problems bashing through anything.
Not as poppy as the stock monarch though.
No problems on the downs in Chiangmai trails. (rear feels more capable then the front)
very occasional Hard bottom outs landing to flat.
but otherwise, a good 95% travel used.

Hope this is useful.
Cheers
 

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Weight- 215lbs
Low B.B. setting
Stock monarch shock with RWC needle bearing kit on top mount
220psi roughly 33%sag
Stock pike up front 2tokens and 65psi

If you guys want a relatively cheap upgrade that makes the rear suspension really work well, I highly suggest the RealWorldCycles needle bearing kit for the top mount. It makes the rear end eat up small bumps and smooth out overall suspension travel! Saved me from wanting to spend a lot more money on a new shock!
 

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Weight- 215lbs
Low B.B. setting
Stock monarch shock with RWC needle bearing kit on top mount
220psi roughly 33%sag
Stock pike up front 2tokens and 65psi

If you guys want a relatively cheap upgrade that makes the rear suspension really work well, I highly suggest the RealWorldCycles needle bearing kit for the top mount. It makes the rear end eat up small bumps and smooth out overall suspension travel! Saved me from wanting to spend a lot more money on a new shock!
I read the RWC thread after seeing your post here and I'm definitely intrigued by this. I think I will order one soon. Think I'm going to go with another token in the fork as well. I'm just slightly lighter than you are and have one token in there right now. I felt the fork was a bit divey on the steep descent from the pic below but turning up the compression any more than three clicks kills the small bump compliance.

I found another minor negative with my Troy: This turn right here. It's a super tight switchback with penalty for failure on the outside. I was able to do it on the Tracer but couldn't manage it the other day on the longer Troy. However, as before with the BB height, the bit of unwieldiness in really tight turns is a minor quibble about the otherwise excellent handling of the bike. I forgot about it as soon as I got into the descent. :D

d7083f5193e81ad8d6ebe79e57682973.jpg
 

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Hi all,
I need to build a new rear wheel for my 2016 Troy Carbon. Cant decide between a 25mm ID, or a 30 (both dt). At the moment, I'm running a DHR 2, 2.3 on the back. I've seen pictures in here of fatter tyres, but tight clearances.

By my reckoning, going 30mm only really makes sense if I'm going to run 2.5 or 2.6 out back. I'd want an aggressive tread, so I wondered if anyone has tried this combo. Let's say 30mm ID rim and 2.5 DHR2 or similar?

Thanks
 

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Hi all,
I need to build a new rear wheel for my 2016 Troy Carbon. Cant decide between a 25mm ID, or a 30 (both dt). At the moment, I'm running a DHR 2, 2.3 on the back. I've seen pictures in here of fatter tyres, but tight clearances.

By my reckoning, going 30mm only really makes sense if I'm going to run 2.5 or 2.6 out back. I'd want an aggressive tread, so I wondered if anyone has tried this combo. Let's say 30mm ID rim and 2.5 DHR2 or similar?

Thanks
You should have no issues fitting any tire combo you mentioned. I run a 30mm ID rim with a 2.35 Hans Dampf that has plenty of clearance. Almost 10mm all around.

Just for fun I finally got around to pulling my plus sized wheel/ tire off my Timberjack to test fittment of a plus tire setup on the Troy. To my surprize it fit well! Now I wish my front fork was Boost on the Troy so I could swap wheel sets around.
40mm ID rim and 2.8” Rekon. About 5mm clearance all around.
 

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So i revamped my troy.

Upgrades
Dt swiss xm 35 inner rims
Dhr 3c 27.5 x 2.6 (about 5 7 mm clearance)
Lyrik 2018 rct3 150 mm
Dropper 150 mil reverb stealth

Rest the same
Xt xtr drivetrain
Hope brakes rotors grips and stem
Enve bar

20181008_073849~2.jpg r
 

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Its been a blast! Best upgrade for the troy.

Anyones knows if I can put the stock Cane creek IL shock without buying the proper hardware? or it comes with hardware?
 

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Yes you can reuse your rockshox hardware. Its the same as the cc hardware.
 

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I just found a sweet deal on a 2016 Troy large in perfect condition, my 1st new bike in.... almost never, lol Used, like most all my bikes the last 25 years....but my 1st "new" bike in 10 years...Ive spent the last 4 months researching currrent bike tech, geometry, versions standards etc... everything has changed so dramatically its unreal.

I'll be receiving this new/old frame in a week and ill be custom building it with the best parts possible to build an enduro capable kick ass trail bike with some interesting spec .

I demo'd a current spec bike last monday, Carbon Transition Smuggler, my 1st exposure to: carbon frame, 1x drivetrain, 29 in wheels tires, slack angle/Long TT/ reach frame, w short 35mm stem, 800mm bars, tubeless...!

HOLY SMOKES... cant wait to get back on the bike!

ill drop a post or three in here once it arrives and i start building it.. with my budget itll be a long build...
 

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has anyone that's changed the rear shock on their 2016 Troy Carbon noticed some side to side play at the lower shock mount and is this normal? it's not much but definetely noticable, the top mount fits nice and tight. thanks in advance.
 

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Troy, whats old is new again.....

Gettin' back on the bike again after 10 yrs away...

Literally 3-4 mo of research to just understand where Mtn. biking has gone in the last 10 years (holy crap!) + what kind of bike I really want/need for the riding i'll be doing at 50+ anymore.
The wealth of articles on this bike here and elsewhere helped immensely, I Demo'd a '19 Transition Smuggler,...an eye opener! then finally settled on a Devinci Troy.

Looking at used bikes, I found a late 2016 Troy frame in excellent condition, cpl 3-4 small nicks on the entire frame. (Thanks Darryl!)

p5pb16673952.jpg


Targeting as many used high-end parts as possible to stretch the budget has naturally paced the build. and so I began my 1st build in over 10 years..


Specs :
- 2016 Troy Carbon Large
- Custom VentureShield frame protection
- 40mm Boost wheel set, Sun-Ringle hubs/alloy rims - Stupid good deal, couldn't afford not to..
- 27.5x30mm F, R + 29x30mm Ft, boost/Carbon 'Mullet' wheel set again, crazy deal on 3 carbon wheels couldn't pass on
- 29/27.5+ Pike, boost w/Debonair spring upgrade, 160mm
- Crank Bros Highline 125mm Dropper
- Origin8 35mm / 50mm stems w/Ti hrdwr
- Easton CF bars 760MM
- Carbon/Ti Seat tube clamp
- SqLab 611 saddle,
- Gore Tec Teflon coated Der. cable
- Roller bearing upper bushing upgrade to Monarch shock
- Repl. steel bolts w/Ti: Pivots, Stem, ISCG, dropper, der., shifters, etc.
- Fab'd up a custom DT protector of 1/16in. embossed marine vinyl from
top to BB.

IMG_20190511_150338.jpg

Custom Paint (no love 4 the 'TROY' script up the SS & links, I wrapped the SS and painted/clear coated all alloy parts: Chain stays. Stems, Linkage plates, fork legs, crown w/a special clear coat that pops in sunlight.


IMG_20190602_124651.jpg

IMG_20190525_200805.jpg

IMG_20190525_200618.jpg

Custom molded chainstay protector (with SUGRU moldable rubber glue!)
then wrapped in silicone fuse tape.

View attachment 1255963

IMG_20190519_160811.jpg

IMG_20190512_182041.jpg

Hope ZS headset
Hope OG Mono 6ti & Mono M4 brakes

assessing expected ride height w/tires and when fork travel is upgraded


IMG_20190603_220739.jpg


Still need to decide on complete drive train, 11/12sp? and which crank standard btwn Shimano, GXP, Dub,


What a learning experience so far...
1st "slack"/New Geo frame design
1st tubeless setups
1st 1x setup
1st rear gear larger than 36!
1st RS fork in 20+ years
1st RS rear shock ever
1st PF-BB ( Wtf, whose idea was this?! )
1st build over 50 lol


Mocked the bike up with everything i have so far on it and damn if i'm not jonesin' crazy hard to get it dirty!


spare a thought...

Ol' Skewl Goodness. Still Rockin after 20 yrs,....with select upgrades.. 27.5/26 Mullet FSR

1998 FSR Max Backbone Elite Pro.jpg
 
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