[cycljunkie]

How many of you are getting seat post slippage on the 2014 frames? I'm building up a chrome and wondering if it's just with the chrome.

My buddy's is chrome.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

 

[djembe975]

My buddy's is chrome.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

He's having slippage problems as well?

 

[cycljunkie]

He's having slippage problems as well?

Not after putting in a shim.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

 

[djembe975]

Where do you get those shims? Also, I'm using a Chromag clamp do you think that will remedy slipping issues?

 

[cycljunkie]

Where do you get those shims? Also, I'm using a Chromag clamp do you think that will remedy slipping issues?

I think the best shim approach is to cut a section of beer can. I think any decent clamp should be fine. Just figure out how much shim you need to make the post stationary.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

 

[ghetto]

my seat post slippage problem seems to have ceased: I took the post out and clamp off, squeezed a lot more fibre grip down the ST, put some more on the post and worked it up and down, reassembled. no slipping on about 40km riding yesterday, let's hope it's fixed.

@djembe975 mine is a chrome, though I don't see why frame finish would be an issue in this problem

attached gratuitous "colourful shiny logo" pic

 

[djembe975]

Do you think a good clamp like the Chromag I have will solve the problem?

 

[ghetto]

sorry I don't know. my clamp is Thompson (the bolt rounds out easily!). I'm riding again tonight, I'll update later if the post moves. If not, that's 2 rides so I think I'm done.

 

[tomcraw]

I just got mine built up, I also have the thomson clamp. I've only ridden on the street yesterday dialing in the drivetrain and brakes. Should get a full ride in Wednesday. Waiting on some new ESI chunky's.

 

[tomcraw]

A couple pics:

 

[tomcraw]

First ride yesterday, leisurely 5 miles to dial in my cockpit.

I really like the geometry. I was able to manual off a very small ledge, something I could never do with my MCR. Didn't have any issue keeping the front down on a short climb, but it isn't very steep. Definitely faster acceleration and way more nimble in switchbacks.

I moved to 60mm stem with my 685mm bars and the front is too twitchy for me, especially at speed. Don't really want to go back to my 90mm stem, so thinking of ordering the Enve 730mm carbon bars.

Final build:
Large chrome Nimble 9
2.4 Ardent front and rear on Stan's Flow
1x10 XT drivetrain
SLX m660 cranks
Wolftooth 32T front ring
MRP chain guide
Avid BB7 brakes (old, definitely want to upgrade)
Chris King headset
Fox F32 100mm fork (2014)
Easton EC70 carbon bars 685mm
cheap 60mm race face stem while I figure out cockpit
Thomson elite seatpost with thomson clamp
WTB rocket seat
ESI chunky grips

 

[jmiah]

These seem awesome! They do seem heavy though. Anyone noticing any issues with weight. 6.5 lbs seems like a lot for a medium frame, even steel. I currently ride a steel Salsa El Mariachi set up single speed.

 

[ghetto]

It doesn't ride heavy to me. The Yelli is 2 pounds lighter if you are concerned about weight and can deal with the alu ride.

 

[ghetto]

Anyone had any issues with an expanded 10 speed cassette? I've put a Hope T Rex 40T expander at the back of my cassette (and taken out the 17T) - the rear arm of the M786 XT mech is close enough to the cassette that in some shifts it obstructs the chain from shifting (in particular from 28T to 24T).

Anyone have any knowledge of this?

This pic shows the chain touching the RM after the shift has been clicked to upshift. It's not jammed, I can shift 2 up then 2 back if I have to, but at the point on the cycle where the tooth is trying to throw the chain outwards, the link is touching the RM.

 

[tomcraw]

Anyone had any issues with an expanded 10 speed cassette? I've put a Hope T Rex 40T expander at the back of my cassette (and taken out the 17T) - the rear arm of the M786 XT mech is close enough to the cassette that in some shifts it obstructs the chain from shifting (in particular from 28T to 24T).

Anyone have any knowledge of this?

This pic shows the chain touching the RM after the shift has been clicked to upshift. It's not jammed, I can shift 2 up then 2 back if I have to, but at the point on the cycle where the tooth is trying to throw the chain outwards, the link is touching the RM.

I think you need to buy a longer b-screw

 

[ghetto]

extended b-screw already fitted

 

[92gli]

I'd grind some clearance into the derail with a dremel. There's plenty of meat there, won't hurt anything.

 

[tomcraw]

After 2nd ride realized that the headset had seated another mm, tightened that up and the twitchy steering disappeared, or by sometime in my third ride I just got everything dialed in. Loving the bike.

 

[ghetto]

I goofed and left my rear axle behind in a car park, it's not there now. Bugger, as we say over here.

Could someone confirm what I need is this, in 135mm width: RockShox Rear Maxle Lite (Updated) | Chain Reaction Cycles

Thanks

 

[KillingtonVT]

I goofed and left my rear axle behind in a car park, it's not there now. Bugger, as we say over here.

Could someone confirm what I need is this, in 135mm width: RockShox Rear Maxle Lite (Updated) | Chain Reaction Cycles

Thanks

Correct, the 135x12 is the Maxle you'll need on the 2014 N9. We also have these in stock and can help you out with pricing as it's a replacement.

Cheers!