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Easiest way to check frame alignment as it relates to the shock would be to bolt the shock into the rear tri and then see how it lines up with the mounting position on the front tri. Could be you have an out of alignment frame, it can happen, stuff slips through QC sometimes, pity if it did and damaged 2 shocks.
 

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Easiest way to check frame alignment as it relates to the shock would be to bolt the shock into the rear tri and then see how it lines up with the mounting position on the front tri.
Great thinking LyNx,
The shock drops in fine and doesn't require any torsional load to fit.
 

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I would take the spring off the shock, lock it in compressed position using zipties and then check alignment of the shock with the frame again.
Are the bearings and their seats tight?
I finally had a chance to check this and with the shock removed and suspension compressed the difference from drive to non-drive side measurement is 0.4mm. So a 0.2mm different than when extended. All the bearings are in good shape and the bolts, ect are torqued appropriately.

I have just received my X-Fusion HLR Coil back from repair and will try some better hardware that should cut down on friction.

I’ll see if this shock lasts...


Cheers
 

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If you mount the shock, tighten the bolts just slightly at first. After compressing the shock a few times, tighten the bolts with the specd torque.
 

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If you mount the shock, tighten the bolts just slightly at first. After compressing the shock a few times, tighten the bolts with the specd torque.
I've installed the shock with the new Racing Bros low friction hardware and torqued as you recommended. The bike has seen roughly 50km of riding, including some rough shuttle laps since coming back from repair. No issues yet!

Let's hope it lasts.
 

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Hi,
As the thread seems to be THE Spitfire thread, I post here. I own a 2013 Spitfire since 2014. I love this bike, I love the durability and the easiness of service it has and above that, I love to ride it. It can be on small home loops, bigger lower mountain trails or big alpine heroic tours, it is in every case the wright bike. Ok, I will not start an XC race with it. But Keith convinced me a few month ago that a frame upgrade would be nice :
The most significant changes in this time are:
- New custom hydroformed tubesets to make the bike lighter and stronger.
- Geometry changes, lots of little tweaks. The biggest of which is a significantly lower BB as the geometry switched from being 26" focused to being more 650b focused, so BB dropped by 7mm. Also the effective seat angle got a bit steeper.
- Linkage was reworked a bit to make the bike a bit more supple at start of travel with better bottom out resistance. Not radically different, just tweaked again.
My plans are the following :
- swap the frame
- change the rear derailleur/shifter, cassette and chain for the new Shimano 12x. XT or SLX, we'll see.
- change cockpit, because I can.
- afford new tires, narrower ones, for the trail side of my rides
and
- as I have now pretty narrow rime (DT XM401), used my current wheels for the narrower tires and buying DT EX1501 for the epic alpine trails !

What do you think about my plans ?
 

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I only would replace my spitfire if i break it. The changes aren't worth it imo if your frame isn't broken.
The lower bb suprises me, i have a 2015 spitfire and 650 wheels, even with those i get pedal strikes. I wouldn't want a lower bb.

Btw, you'll need to replace your dropper or seat post aswell since the new hydroformed tubing had a 31.6mm seatpost in stead of the older 30,9mm.
 

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Back at Mammoth...and still awesome. This year its sporting a new drivetrain and new 2.6 tires.

Mammoth Mountain Inn lobby.:cornut:

MMI lobby.jpg
 

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My Spitfire with 29r wheels. No the rear does not clear. It rubs the brace next to the main pivot. I think it'll work if the tire was a 2.25 semi slick with no tread on the middle of the tire like a Furious Fred. I put my 29 fork on too. This is what being bored does. Tires are 2.25 Rocket Rons. I think if the rear dropout is another 5-8mm longer...it can clear a smallish 2.35.

IMG_2557.jpg
 

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In the interim I've leant my Double Barrel Air to a friend who also has a Spitfire.
Couldn't for the life of us find the base tune in the Cane Creek site.
Installed the legacy app.
Can anyone confirm if these settings are true?

Cheers
 

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Hard funkin´ Kraut
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I still have a Cane Creek DB air MY2013, regular can, no climb-switch.
Basetune settings back then were:
HSC and HSR 2 Turns
LSC and LSR 10 clicks
13 mm sag (shock-stroke) => 25% sag (rear travel)
No spacers!

I went with 140 psi (90 kg full weight), 12 clicks LSC and LSR up to today.

From what I remember your basetune settings were possibly for the CCDB air CS, or VX can ... ???
 

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Hard funkin´ Kraut
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Then there you have it! :)
Climb-Switch (CS) and the larger volume can (VX) were introduced for the modelyears 2014 or 2015 (Rune and Spitfire), so this is for sure the right basetune. 15 mm sag = 30% sag rear travel.
 
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