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I asked Banshee guys a few years ago about some advice for changing my rear shock. Here the answer from Dennis @ Banshee :

"I still think the DBair cs is the best shock for the Spitfire. A little heavy but it make up for it in performance. If you do decide to go with a monarch plus you’ll need to get the shock in low compression, medium rebound, low volume air can with x2 volume spacers."


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How do you fit the volume reducer bands to the low volume can? I thought they are only used on the debonair can.
 

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Replaced my bottom bearings using a 120mm M12 bolt and M12 washers, which fit the outer bearing race perfectly. One tip is to have the lower link in position when you press in the new bearings so that you get everything matching up when you bolt it all back together.
 

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After some browsing I'll go the DIY way. I saw a lo of videos, seems to be ok.

Here a Pic of my Spit. Yesterday I had enough time to crank a little up and down.



Look at Sam Os on Strava.
 

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After some browsing I'll go the DIY way. I saw a lo of videos, seems to be ok.

Here a Pic of my Spit. Yesterday I had enough time to crank a little up and down.

Look at Sam Os on Strava.
I always thought those red Spitfires were the business! Nice looking ride.
 

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Hey Spitfire owners! I'm riding mine un thé slack position for two years now. But as winter is coming slowly, my rides will tend to more xc-trail than usual, and that's why i'm thinking setting it in the middle position.
Do you guys have seen any real world difference between the two positions?


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1500m D+ and D- in neutral position. I’m not sure if that make a big difference uphill. Downhill it’s ok. More tight turns than long Mach speed turns.



 

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Hey Spitfire owners! I'm riding mine un thé slack position for two years now. But as winter is coming slowly, my rides will tend to more xc-trail than usual, and that's why i'm thinking setting it in the middle position.
Do you guys have seen any real world difference between the two positions?


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Neutral setting improves tight cornering, slack improves high speed cornering. It's noticeable to me.


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Do you mean V2.0?
The original V1 was 26" open 135mm non-modular dropout only.

I'm after some 650b dropouts for my V2.1 but I'm guessing it would cost too much to ship to NZ.
 

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Do you mean V2.0?
The original V1 was 26" open 135mm non-modular dropout only.

I'm after some 650b dropouts for my V2.1 but I'm guessing it would cost too much to ship to NZ.
These are the drop out I am selling. They are called v1 as they were first gen of the modular drop out bikes. PM me your infos and I'll look for a shipping rate!
 

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Are they the 3 position or 2 position ones? 3 position are V1, 2 position are V2. V1 was available as normal 135x10 vertical, 142x12 TA for all bikes to fit their native wheelsize, 26" for Spityy/Rune and 29" for Prime/Phantom, 142x12 TA LONG, which let the Spitfire/Rune run 650B or the Prime/Phantom run 29+.

Suggest you contact the Banshee dealer in NZ and get them directly from them, they're in Aukland.

3Sixty Sports
30 Ruawai Road, Auckland, New Zealand
[email protected]
0212782388

Hey guys and girls, just want to let you know that I have a V1 27.5 12 X 142 drop out kit for sale. Pm me for info!

Do you mean V2.0?
The original V1 was 26" open 135mm non-modular dropout only.

I'm after some 650b dropouts for my V2.1 but I'm guessing it would cost too much to ship to NZ.
These are the drop out I am selling. They are called v1 as they were first gen of the modular drop out bikes. PM me your infos and I'll look for a shipping rate!
 

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Are they the 3 position or 2 position ones? 3 position are V1, 2 position are V2. V1 was available as normal 135x10 vertical, 142x12 TA for all bikes to fit their native wheelsize, 26" for Spityy/Rune and 29" for Prime/Phantom, 142x12 TA LONG, which let the Spitfire/Rune run 650B or the Prime/Phantom run 29+.
I'm selling the V1, which has three positions.
 
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