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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just like to throw up some pics of my new to me fork and the paint job i did.

I bought this fork on ebay with some rub marks on the lowers from someone running a 27.5 tire on the fork. I thought i got a deal at $300 for a 2013 fork.

It was nearly impossible to find a 1 1/8 straight steerer Fox 32 CTD with trail adjust in BLACK so i knew i would probably be painting a fork if this was the route i was gonna go.

When i received the fork i tore it down to inspect the sanctions because i bought a fork in the past on ebay with sanctions that were shot and had to return it......This fork had perfect sanctions....despite the seals where rust color brown!

Sent the damper to Fox to get the 2014 damper upgrade and service for $65....another thing i learned is that fox will service the damper alone for $40 instead of having to buy more fox red and a bleed valve adapter....I thought this was a good price not to have to mess with the damper plus the fact that the whole job including service and the 2014 damper upgrade total cost $65 shipped seemed like id get practically a refurbished damper for cheap.

Now for the painting.....

I used 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to sand down the sheen off the fork.....then 600 wet/dry to smooth out the finish....

i used bondo plastic body filler on the rub spot and on a few little nicks here and there....

Here's where i wasted some time:

I meticulously taped up everything.....using an exacto knife. there is enough gap between the legs and the sanctions to get tape in between so your tape lines come out good.

I used 3m delicate painters tape for paint less then 24 hrs dry to tape the kashima coated sanctions so i caused no damage.

I also put a old shirt in the top of the sanction tubes and in the lowers just as a precaution so paint didnt go in there.

Id say between the sanding, taping, and filler.....it took 3-4 hours to get what i thought was perfect.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Paint time

Well I waited a day for the weather to be a little less wet.

I wiped down the fork with 99% alcohol and a tacky cloth.

I first used a can plastikote filler primer let it dry for a day and gave it a light wet sand with 600 grit paper.....i didnt like the bond so i sanding it down again......and went to a advanced auto and got some duplicolor auto filler primer....

Put a can down on the fork and let it sit for a day.....the bond was excellent and i gave it a nice wet sand and wipe down with 99% alcohol and a tacky cloth again...

I know i should have trusted my judgement about plastikote engine enamel by now but i didnt....Luckily when i bought the duplicolor primer....i also bought some duplicolor auto engine enamel low gloss....

I bought flat black plastikote engine enamel and that exactly what i got....it was like a matte flat black after 3 coats 10 mins apart.....i didnt like it and thought it looked nothing like a stock fox black fork.....

So i shot 2 more thick coats of duplicolor low gloss engine enamel within the hour timeframe you have with this paint....

I could not tell you how happy i am with the finish.....i put it next to my other fox fork and the finish is sooo spot on i thought i factory matched the paint.....I took about $40 but i could not be happier....

I will let it sit for a total of 7 days and since i still dont have back my damper cause of the sea otter.....it doesnt bother me one bit....

Ill post up some finished rebuilt pics with 2012 stickers cause my bike is black and grey like the 2012 color scheme...

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Final Pics and insight

Well, i got back the damper from Fox....

I figured i show a few final pics and just tell you how much of a PITA setting the CTD spring and ball.....i tried to do it with a tiny pick but failed straight for like 30 mins....

If you wanna set this spring, and i have 3 times since figuring this out....

Follow the directions as stated lifting the damper shaft to set the ball in an indenture on the shaft....covering using the same 10mm socket used to tighten the bottom nuts...

This is where i makes or brakes it.....USING A FLAT HEAD EYE GLASS SCREWDRIVER set the spring in its place and then use a pick to remove the screwdriver from one end.....takes a second using this technique...

Thanks for viewing and if you have any questions feel free to ask...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Unbelievable. The fork is perfect after 20 months of hard abuse. The paint did chip a bit in the beginning due to still being soft. No where noticeable. Near the crown and where the dampers screw into the uppers. It really took the paint about a month to harden properly. Now its as hard if not harder then the stock paint. Id do this again without a question. White forks are soooo much easier to find then black and usually significantly cheaper
 
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