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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2012 kashima rp23 problems (apparently shock fine but DU bush problem)

I seem to have a problem with the rp23 on my yeti sb66. I noticed the propedal activation switch went floppy for a little while before regaining a slightly vaguer feeling detent.

Riding it tonight with no other changes I was using much less shock travel than before and it showed signs of having full propedal on the whole time.

I'll get it checked out but looks like I've blown up the shock with about 12 hours riding. Anybody else had problems? The old style rp23 on my other bike has been bomb proof.

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I've experienced a weird propedal lever once on my 2012 RP23. It didn't want to stay switched over in propedal mode (tried switching it over pre-ride), almost like the detent to hold the lever was gone. Once I got on the bike and cycled the shock it worked like normal again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've experienced a weird propedal lever once on my 2012 RP23. It didn't want to stay switched over in propedal mode (tried switching it over pre-ride), almost like the detent to hold the lever was gone. Once I got on the bike and cycled the shock it worked like normal again.
That's exactly what happened with mine and now the propedal selection seems to be broken completely. Let us know if you experience any more strange behavior

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did you set the dial to zero? Turn it until the number 0 lines up with the switch. The open position will otherwise keep the PP on at the chosen setting. I was caught out by this at first.
Yes, I have the propedal setting on zero, in fact no change during the ride where it started off working and then ended up stodgy and not using full travel.

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Same thing happened to the RP23 on my 575 at the end of last summer. Sent it back to Fox and they fixed it under warranty. Obviously that sucks though, as it can take 2-3 weeks.

It has worked all summer, but still feels a little loose.
 

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If it is anything like the previous RP23 it usually means the shock needs a recharge (nitrogen). When properly charged it seems to make the level more solid between the settings.

Hopefully that is all it requires and nothing is broke inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Follow up report on mine.

It seems that the shock dynoed OK, so the problems I was experiencing are probably related to a badly worn and notchy DU bush.

On Mojo's recommendation I'm getting the shock revalved to a firmer tune to better match the 200 psi I was running for 28% sag.
 
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