Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all -

Purchased one of these about 5 weeks ago. I've scheduled my first tune up (free) to happen on Sunday/Monday.

I've been having some problems with the cassette slipping when using the tallest and next smallest gears when starting out and applying a lot of torque (at a stop light or something and I've stopped - I use the bike for commuting mainly). I'm hoping that a tune up resolves this (derailleur adjustment), but if it doesn't, do I need to adjust my riding style?

Also, it seems like shifting isn't quite as quick or crisp as I'd like it to be, especially when changing the crank gears. Would upgraded shifters help this at all, or is this simply an adjustment problem at the front derailleur?

Furthermore, can you fit 2.5" tires on these wheels and on this frame? Does anyone have a hydraulic brake recommendation? Avid BB5? What is the largest disc that can be fit on the rear before it contacts the frame?

Thanks!
 

·
Trail Rider
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
Sport Disc comes with BB5s

If your using the bike with commuting(and not across a mountain), you may not want 2.5" tires on the wheels. Not sure if they fit.

I'm sure your shop will check on the brakes too, there's typically some stretch at first... Stock BB5s should be ample for most riding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
hr29er said:
I've been having some problems with the cassette slipping when using the tallest and next smallest gears when starting out and applying a lot of torque (at a stop light or something and I've stopped - I use the bike for commuting mainly). I'm hoping that a tune up resolves this (derailleur adjustment), but if it doesn't, do I need to adjust my riding style?
I had a similar problem with my Hardrock. In my case the rear shifter cable was too tight and when I applied too much torque to the cranks the bike would shift to a higher gear. I was told that the rear triangle was flexing ever so slightly and that coupled with the overly tight rear shifter cable was causing the bike to shift to a higher gear. Having it adjusted should solve that problem.
 

·
Fat-tired Roadie
Joined
·
18,453 Posts
hr29er said:
Also, it seems like shifting isn't quite as quick or crisp as I'd like it to be, especially when changing the crank gears. Would upgraded shifters help this at all, or is this simply an adjustment problem at the front derailleur?
I upgraded to a SLX front derailleur on mine, and was shocked at the improvement. I later upgraded my shifters and while they feel a bit nicer to use, I can't say they perform any differently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I had the bike tuned up and while the brakes feel better than they did and shifting feels a bit crisper, I'm still having problems when I'm standing on the pedals (Starting out, powering down a lane in traffic). I replaced the pedals with Xpedo platform pedals and I feel like I'm able to put a bit more torque into the crankset.

The problem manifests itself in the top 3 gears on the cassette. It feels like the chain is slipping off teeth or it's jumping or something, because I'll be standing and pedaling just fine and then all of a sudden it just skips. Luckily enough everytime it's happened (and it happened a BUNCH this morning) I've been able to catch my balance and not fly headfirst off the bike. I'm *assuming* it's the cassette and not the crank only because it "Feels" like it, I haven't actually witnessed it. I need to put the bike on a trainer or something and try it I guess.

I'm going to call the bike shop today and see if they'll look at it again. It's really annoying and I need it fixed. I'm hoping this is a warranty kind of thing. I wouldn't think an XL (23") frame would have a problem with a 200lb guy standing on the pedals and powering through in top gear?
 

·
Fat-tired Roadie
Joined
·
18,453 Posts
Chain skips can be caused by a couple of different things.

After cross-chaining, the most common is a stiff link. If you throw your bike on a rack or something and pedal backwards, you should actually see it make the rear derailleur jump.

It can also be the rear derailleur being a little out of alignment, so that the chain starts trying to derail. The top derailleur pulley should sit directly below whatever cog you're in. If it's a little bit to the side, the chain may start trying to shift. There aren't many teeth on the small cogs, so they can be more problematic.

A missing tooth would also cause problems. I think it's a little less likely to mess up your power transfer on the front than the back, but could still mess with things.

Finally, inexpensive cranksets can be a bit flexy and have so-so rings. So any problems with your chainline or derailleur tuning will be made worse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I took it into the shop and after about 15 minutes they had the rear derailleur bent and re-aligned. I have ridden it hard in the past few hours and have experienced no power transfer problems. I love this bike all over again.

I can tell the brake cables are stretching again though. I think I want to upgrade to hydraulic discs. Would it be reasonable at this point to put Avid Juicy 5's on it? I'd like to stick with the 160mm rotor size - change nothing but handles/calipers and remove 2 stretchable brake cables from the mix.
 

·
Fat-tired Roadie
Joined
·
18,453 Posts
hr29er said:
I can tell the brake cables are stretching again though. I think I want to upgrade to hydraulic discs. Would it be reasonable at this point to put Avid Juicy 5's on it? I'd like to stick with the 160mm rotor size - change nothing but handles/calipers and remove 2 stretchable brake cables from the mix.
Unless you got new brake cables in the last few days, it's more likely that what you're feeling is the brake pads wearing down.

Hydraulics are pretty nice, though. They self-adjust, so messing around with a pad wear adjustment will be a thing of the past. The braking power is much better too.

Whether or not it's reasonable is up to you.
 

·
Rider
Joined
·
12 Posts
I had this problem.

My LBS was helpful and tried a few things when I had slippage problems climbing with relatively straight chain action. What seemed to fix it was to increase the amount of chainwrap around the rear gears. This seems to have solved the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
I had the same problem as well

Multiple cable adjustments, and my derailleur was replaced twice. The LBS finally swapped the cassette with a new one, and VOILA - problem solved.

I had a broken bottom bracket cup that had to get replaced the other day. Bike has less than 600 miles, so I'm not too impressed with Specialized's quality. Will sell this bike at year end, and upgrade - not to a Specialized, though.
 

·
Enthusiast
Joined
·
5,360 Posts
hr29er said:
What is the largest disc that can be fit on the rear before it contacts the frame?
Use the front brake. Seriously.

Brace yourself against the bars when you stop, so that you don't just fly forward. The front brake is where it's at when it comes to stopping.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top