The S Link pivot bearings 688 (8x16x5)mm. I.D./O.D./width.. in that order. are already junk- notchyness and one completly locked up on a new 2010 Specialized Epic Comp..Talked to a mechanic at a dealer...said the best thing to replace the bearings with would be a enduro max bearing...more balls with a higher rockwell hardness...not bad price of about 5 bucks each..Question? anyone found any good way to remove and press the new bearings in..Enduro bearing presses are sold out...anyone have one? Think Specialized should have come up with a bushing and needle bearing for this applicaton..What do you think...
2010 Specialized Epic S Link Junk Bearings 688
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I have had similar problems with the s-link bearings. I spoke with the folks at Enduro Bearings and they suggested a standard Enduro bearing. His reasoning was the standard Enduro bearing has a greater load capacity than the stock specialized and a greated grease fill capacity. The Enduro Max bearing has even more bearing wich = less grease. I installed the standard enduro bearings, but before pressing them in, filled each one with PhilWood green grease, and I can say after a couple thousand miles the rearend is still smooth!pedaldown said:
The good news...we found an alternative bearing...had went ahead and ordered the max bearing for the maximum load capacity...tthey do have more balls..they leave out the retainer...saying it leads to 40 percent more load capacity over stock...less grease...maybe they might rust; however, Max bearings use crc staplex marine grease, with double seals..one to keep dirt out and one to retain grease....at least it should be better than what was supplied..the stock ones were a joke.
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glad to hear you have it resolved!! the most important thing is getting back out riding!pedaldown said:
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The 688RS is a very small sealed bearing, which is designed for radial loads. Unfortunately, small sealed bearings will not last very long if they see any type of lateral loads. I believe the new Enduro bearings that you are referring to are called full compliment sealed bearing, which has more small loose ball bearings packed in-between the inner and outer races than a standard seal bearings with ball bearing retainers/cages. The 40% stronger estimate for the Enduro bearing is probably on the high side of reality, however packing the new bearings with Phil Woods or Boat grease is a good idea but it won’t solve the root problem of your bearing failure-lateral loads. I have owned two Stumpjumper FSR frames that suffered from chronic bearing failures. The first frame was a 2004 SJ FSR that would destroy its (4) drop-out 688s and its (4) shock link 6800 every few months. My 2007 SJ was even worse all of its (10) 6800 and 6801 full compliment sealed bearings would wear-out within five 20 mile rides. My LBS changed out the 2007 FSR’s rear end seat and chain stay swing arm with the same results. Luckily Specialized warranty out the frame for a 2009 Epic, which has had zero bearing problems for well over two years. The Epic, in my opinion, is the best FS bike Specialized has designed and built to date.
Changing out the 688 yourself will void the frame warrantee. Only an Authorized Specialized dearer can change out your bearings with Specialized packaged bearings will keep your warrantee in tack. Try that route first and if the 688 keeps failing, push to warrantee out the frame becausw something is out of alignment.
Changing out the 688 yourself will void the frame warrantee. Only an Authorized Specialized dearer can change out your bearings with Specialized packaged bearings will keep your warrantee in tack. Try that route first and if the 688 keeps failing, push to warrantee out the frame becausw something is out of alignment.
The bearings press in and out with ease...no lateral movement found...just grit that got by the old seals...and smoked the bearings..the two that were on the seat down tube..I would recommend to anyone with a S link pivot system to press out your old bearings...and install the Enduro 688 Max bearings...
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