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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just bought a Lyrik U-Turn from a fellow homer. However, the soft (yellow) spring is still a too firm for my taste. And yes, I already did an oil change in the damper and lowers but I'm still running LSC and HSC wide open (floodgate all the way open as well) to get this thing feeling less spikey. Although I tune based on ride and not by sag, I'm only getting about 15mm to 20mm of sag. I'm thinking an X-Soft spring is in order and maybe a 2.5/5 wt mix in the damper... Anyone know of a place to get X-Soft Lyrik Coil U-Turn springs?
Of course, the gratuitous shot... 30.2 lbs
 

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I suggest looking at posts by davep in the suspension forum, some good info there.

But while we're here, what do you weigh? And is this the new mission DH?

I'm 145 nude and run a medium spring on my old lyrik u-turn mostly because I'm too lazy to do whatever it takes to get the fork to feel good. I've done plenty of oil changes and knob turning but definitely feel there is room for improvement. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I pretty much went through all the posts regarding tuning the Lyrik (it's a 2010 but with the standard Mission Control cart). I weigh between 125 and 130 lbs (so about 145 with gear)... I'll have to get some Torco 5 and 7 and try to come up with a mix that works for the riding that I'll be doing with this thing. I really would rather have some adjustability instead of running everything wide open. For example, there is this little 3 footer to flat right by my house that I would like to get 5" out of the fork but I only get about 4" or a little over 4" with the Lyrik (maybe I should dead sailor the landing to get more travel). I've also got my eye out for an X-Soft spring. I don't want to modify the cart to get rid of the floodgate as I actually like to use the lockout when climbing pavement.
Any suggestions are welcome...
 

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Get rid of that floodgate!!

flipnidaho said:
I pretty much went through all the posts regarding tuning the Lyrik (it's a 2010 but with the standard Mission Control cart). I weigh between 125 and 130 lbs (so about 145 with gear)... I'll have to get some Torco 5 and 7 and try to come up with a mix that works for the riding that I'll be doing with this thing. I really would rather have some adjustability instead of running everything wide open. For example, there is this little 3 footer to flat right by my house that I would like to get 5" out of the fork but I only get about 4" or a little over 4" with the Lyrik (maybe I should dead sailor the landing to get more travel). I've also got my eye out for an X-Soft spring. I don't want to modify the cart to get rid of the floodgate as I actually like to use the lockout when climbing pavement.
Any suggestions are welcome...
Flip, do yourself a favor and find the thread where you modify the cartridge removing the floodgate assy. Wow, it has totally transformed the Lyrik and you should be happy then with the soft spring. :thumbsup:
 

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Universalcycles.com has all the Lyrik coil weights:

http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=14124

You might try the lighter oil first. I want to try a mix of 2.5w and 5w, 50/50% in my Lyrik with Mission Control to gain a faster LSC adjustment range. A recent FG removal did make a little difference I guess, subtle, but hard to say since I put fresh oil in at the same time. The lighter oil mix made a very nice small to large bump hit improvement to my PUSH tuned Pike, and might do similar with the Lyrik.
 

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AZmtncycler said:
Flip, do yourself a favor and find the thread where you modify the cartridge removing the floodgate assy. Wow, it has totally transformed the Lyrik and you should be happy then with the soft spring. :thumbsup:
fwiw, the 2010 got revised Mission Control dampening...yeah, you read that right. Not only the revision for the DH damper, but better small-bump compliance thru reworked MC damper.
 

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Just wondering what weight spring is it shipped with stock, and what rider weight is it intended for? My U-turn has the Dh damper and I consider it a pretty firm feeling fork. I'm at leat 190 with gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
CharacterZero said:
fwiw, the 2010 got revised Mission Control dampening...yeah, you read that right. Not only the revision for the DH damper, but better small-bump compliance thru reworked MC damper.
I did notice that the damper worked great through the high speed stutters...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
scepticshock said:
Just wondering what weight spring is it shipped with stock, and what rider weight is it intended for? My U-turn has the Dh damper and I consider it a pretty firm feeling fork. I'm at leat 190 with gear.
Mine came with a firm, medium and soft (but I think the forks ship with medium installed, with the soft and firm spring inside the box). I'm starting to understand that the spring's recommended weight range leans a little to the high side. I'll try the oil mix first and also try to break in the fork a little bit more to see if it loosens up...
When I did change the oil, I noticed that it came with red damper fork oil (looks like ATF). The Maxima/SRAM 5 wt is more of a greenish color... So I replaced it with the appropriate Maxima oil. I need to order some Torco RFF 5 and 7 to do the custom mix.
 

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flipnidaho said:
I just bought a Lyrik U-Turn from a fellow homer. However, the soft (yellow) spring is still a too firm for my taste. And yes, I already did an oil change in the damper and lowers but I'm still running LSC and HSC wide open (floodgate all the way open as well) to get this thing feeling less spikey. Although I tune based on ride and not by sag, I'm only getting about 15mm to 20mm of sag. I'm thinking an X-Soft spring is in order and maybe a 2.5/5 wt mix in the damper... Anyone know of a place to get X-Soft Lyrik Coil U-Turn springs?
Of course, the gratuitous shot... 30.2 lbs
Gary
very light build,nice polished rockers. which seatpost is that, and do you have any thoughts about the precision cycling components seatpost?
I think the blending of oil is the right way to go. I have the soft spring and still
it could use a bit more of the travel for my liking.
 

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I would rethink removing the floodgate from the cartridge. It is amazing how much that component restricts oil flow and the difference I felt was amazing. Like you, I was running zero high or low speed compression and after pulling it out, started running 6 or 7 clicks of low speed to tune out mostly brake dive and pedal bob as a bi-product. I bought some different oils to start mixxing and matching but the dials gave me what I wanted with the floodgate removed.
You can always crank up the low speed for the long climbs, just remember how far from open or closed you are for when its time to have fun.

Its an easy procedure and can be put back in. I would say, pull it and go hit your drop. Maybe do a ride or two on a trail you know really well (all of them falls under that category) and if you still think its oversprung you can get a ligther spring and put the floodgate back in. I know you love to tinker so this should excite you to some degree.
 

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flipnidaho said:
I just bought a Lyrik U-Turn from a fellow homer. However, the soft (yellow) spring is still a too firm for my taste. And yes, I already did an oil change in the damper and lowers but I'm still running LSC and HSC wide open (floodgate all the way open as well) to get this thing feeling less spikey. Although I tune based on ride and not by sag, I'm only getting about 15mm to 20mm of sag. I'm thinking an X-Soft spring is in order and maybe a 2.5/5 wt mix in the damper... Anyone know of a place to get X-Soft Lyrik Coil U-Turn springs?
Of course, the gratuitous shot... 30.2 lbs
SOme thoughts:

Certainly might be worth removing the gate valve, it is a 5 min job and can be reversed in another 5 min. I rode mine without for a while (while also playing with some additional shims (compression as well as 'mid valve' to compensate) as a holdover untill I could get a hold of the the DH damper parts.
It is also worth checking the gate valve seat. It is a black plastic seal/seat and I have seen several of them (Mine was to some extent) really mashed up and clogging the Gate ports....so even with the gate 'off' there was significant oil restriction.

Greasing up the seals with slick honey (there is a space between the wiper and oil seal that will take ~tablespoon of grease) can do wonders to decrease stiction and give better small input sensitivity.

IMO most current RS springs run a bit stiff WRT their recomendations (I think this is actually done to varying extenst industry wide, and done to 'cover your a$$" from the MFG standpoint. Safer for the rider, and for the equipment to over spring rather than underspring).

You can also create a little 'negative spring' buy bolting up the foot nuts with the fork compressed (moreso on the damper side.....burp the air, and close the fork up in a compresed state, creating a vacuum at extension). It is not a huge difference, but it can be felt.

That is all for now
 

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No Nuts

davep said:
You can also create a little 'negative spring' buy bolting up the foot nuts with the fork compressed (moreso on the damper side.....burp the air, and close the fork up in a compresed state, creating a vacuum at extension). It is not a huge difference, but it can be felt.

That is all for now
Them's bolts...;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
mtbmitch2 said:
Gary
very light build,nice polished rockers. which seatpost is that, and do you have any thoughts about the precision cycling components seatpost?
I think the blending of oil is the right way to go. I have the soft spring and still
it could use a bit more of the travel for my liking.
I have the AMP and love it... Dead simple and reliable... Mark has the GD and his works equally as well and is simple as well. I still have reservations about using a hydro post on my all day rig so I'm staying away for those (plus, they don't make them in 27.2)
I have some Torco RFF 5 and 7 coming this week as well as an X-soft spring... I'll try doing combinations of spring and oil weights before modifying the damper... If all else fails, I'll go ahead and start screwing around with the damper (and a dremel)....
I'll keep y'all up to date... I'm sure there are plenty of lightweight riders out here that require special tuning because all forks are designed/tuned out of the box for the median weight rider...
 

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here ya go...

flipnidaho said:
I have the AMP and love it... Dead simple and reliable... Mark has the GD and his works equally as well and is simple as well. I still have reservations about using a hydro post on my all day rig so I'm staying away for those (plus, they don't make them in 27.2)
I have some Torco RFF 5 and 7 coming this week as well as an X-soft spring... I'll try doing combinations of spring and oil weights before modifying the damper... If all else fails, I'll go ahead and start screwing around with the damper (and a dremel)....
I'll keep y'all up to date... I'm sure there are plenty of lightweight riders out here that require special tuning because all forks are designed/tuned out of the box for the median weight rider...
Gary, when you start working on the damper, (I still feel this will take care of your issues) check this thread...
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=541403&page=2&highlight=lyrik+tuning
This doesn't cost you a dime and takes maybe 15 minutes to do. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
AZmtncycler said:
Gary, when you start working on the damper, (I still feel this will take care of your issues) check this thread...
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=541403&page=2&highlight=lyrik+tuning
This doesn't cost you a dime and takes maybe 15 minutes to do. :thumbsup:
Thanks!
I actually have looked at the mod (a number of times) and I'll keep it in the back pocket. I'm trying to do this systematically... Change spring rate first, change oil in damper if spring rate doesn't work (this is where I'm at now- I switched to Torco RFF 5 and will test later today), if that doesn't work, remove FG and possibly switch shims if I start blowing through my travel...
 

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It may not be too late; you could convert your fork to a solo air. I had a coil sprung pike that I coverted to a dual air, with no issues. The main "issue" is that the coil spring will scratch up the insides of the stanchion, which would make it impossible to get an air seal with the air spring parts. I had the coil pike for almost a year before converting, and despite a little bit of the coating wearing off the inside of the fork leg, there were no scratches, and no issues with sealing in the air pressure. With the solo air spring, you can dial in your perfect spring rate in your lyrik.
I have a 2009 solo air lyrik, which I first rode stock; removed the floodgate, which was a big improvement, then got the dh compression internals, which was a fantasmical improvement. I'm waiting for the 2010 rebound assembly to show up, which will have a larger diameter piston, which I expect to be yet another improvement...
anyway, I'm drifting here; what I'm saying is... I recommend converting your lyric to solo air.
 

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Your geting 15-20mm sag measured how? Sittin in the petaling position or standing in an attack position? 20mm sag while in the sitting/petaling position might not be to bad if you have a more rearward seat position. Whats the sag when your standing on the petals like your going to hit an obstacle?

I have a 2007 lyrik with the gate valve out and 2.5wt oil in the damper unit (5wt is stock) and weight a lot more than you on the chart recommended spring. Many say the spring rate charts are overly stiff. My take on the issue is that the spring weight charts are close to correct and that the low speed damping is to slow on the fastest setting on this fork.

A different approach applying these ideas might be to get 25% sag when in the attach position. Make sure to balance this with the sag obtained on a downhill too. Once you have this dialed, adjust the damping/oil wt after this. For me, the spring rate chart was correct and so I went for lighter damping with a lighter wt oil.

Also keeping the lowers oil changed and oil actually in the lowers goes a long way. As posted above, having something thicker under the dust seals helps keep the oil in the lowers. I use prep M and I still have oil in the lowers after 2 or 3 months riding which was never the case before I started puting it under the dust seals.
 
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