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Perpetual Hack
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Upgrade Dilema
As mentioned a few days ago; I have a White 2010 Delirium on order.
I have been thinking of changing up a few things...
The Ti/CCDB is staying as a rear shock.
The Wotan forks I think are going. They are not bad, especially after Suspension works did their magic but I want more adjustability and maybe a bit more fork... (2007 chassis with updted 2009 damper and rebound cart, reshimmed and oil tuned)
This is my one and only bike. I live in Southern Ontario, so its not overly mountinous here :D Not a weight-weenie as I am 6'2" and 210, but I would like to get the bike down couple of pounds, or at least stay the same (~38lbs) cause just about every ride involes turning the cranks - alot. :mad:

So as you can probably tell the bike is mostly a trial-machine, with a bit of easy small-town urban, and a few lift service trips a year. The fork does fine mostly, but there have been a few times that I wish I had a bit more. Some lift service, as well as most local flat-land trails, are also ATV so very heavily rutted / muddy.

I have no option for riding any of the new forks, and even to see one will require seveal hours drive each way, so looking for some input from you mangy lot.

I'm considering a few options (please feel free to add)
2010 Lyric DH
66 RCV3 Ti
55 RCV3 Ti
Totem DH?

I'm liking the looks of the lyric, but am not too sure about the 35mm stantions...actually a bit smaller than the wotan at 36.
Have been leaning to coil as I would like more small / stutter absorbtion. Weight is nice, actually a bit lighter than the Wotan.

I also like what I've heard about the new 66, however it is $$ and Lbs. I could use a CC flush headset to het the front end down a bit...
...but I'm also thinking it may be just too much fork for my normal trail duties... How is the combined Hi/Lo adjustment compared to the seperate ones on the Lyric / Fox?

That brings me to the 55, which is in in the same class as the lyric and my wotan. As well, we could throw the 36 VAN RC2 into the mix....


I'm also thinking about brakes - currentlfy have Louise BAT's wtih 203 front, 185 rear. Any thoughs on comparison to Avid Elixr CR/R? As well, what about dropping rotor size to 185 /160? So far I have never come close to useing all my brakes, just not enough hill here...

( I do think I have a buyer for anything I change up...as a buddy wants to build my 09 DT warranty frame )

Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated. - Thank-you


michael
 

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Just a few thoughts

Forks-if the 66 RC3 Ti is too expensive and heavy just wait until spring, rumor has it that Fox is releasing a 180mm single crown fork, it will be lighter than the other 180mm forks for sure.
Brakes- I LOVE my Louise BATs, best brakes I've ever owned, never had Elixir's but I rode them at I Bike, they are good brakes, but I think the Maguras are better for the money, also replacement rotors are MUCH cheaper. Great bite, modulation and power. I'd go 203 F, 160 R.
 

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Its a little misleading

Not really a RC "3" per say... The dial controls compression dampening both high and low but it is only one dial and one circuit, you have to find a compromise. As far as the air assist spring, make sure your fork comes with the Marz adapter otherwise a standard pump wont fit, the assist spring takes 0-10 psi, very hard to measure with a standard pump guage, I count the number of pumps or strokes, usually between 5-10 pumps for me.
 

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craigstr said:
Not really a RC "3" per say... The dial controls compression dampening both high and low but it is only one dial and one circuit, you have to find a compromise. As far as the air assist spring, make sure your fork comes with the Marz adapter otherwise a standard pump wont fit, the assist spring takes 0-10 psi, very hard to measure with a standard pump guage, I count the number of pumps or strokes, usually between 5-10 pumps for me.
Is the fork supposed to come with the adapter? I'm getting it through a shop.

What is the purpose of the air assist? Is it a must to have air or can you run it empty?
 

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Perpetual Hack
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was running 203 / 203 but it was too much brake on the rear, so I dropped it to 185. I like the balance so don't think I would keep 203F and drop to 160 in rear....

The FOX "180" is of interest, but being vapourware at the moment...also bet its gonna be $$'s

Regarding the Lyric - Solo Air vs Coil. How do they compare regarding mid-stroke and initial plushness? I have never had a coil fork, but am tired of getting beaten up by small stutter bumps and dealing with mid-travel support on air sprung sticks.

Thanks again guys

michael
 

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mykel said:
I was running 203 / 203 but it was too much brake on the rear, so I dropped it to 185. I like the balance so don't think I would keep 203F and drop to 160 in rear....

The FOX "180" is of interest, but being vapourware at the moment...also bet its gonna be $$'s

Regarding the Lyric - Solo Air vs Coil. How do they compare regarding mid-stroke and initial plushness? I have never had a coil fork, but am tired of getting beaten up by small stutter bumps and dealing with mid-travel support on air sprung sticks.

Thanks again guys

michael
Who knows when Fox will get their act together with the 180mm fork.

If you hate stutter bumps then you NEED a coil fork. If you do go with the Lyrik definitely get the DH damper. It's supposed to be much more supple on the smaller hits. I've ridden both the Totem and Lyrik in air and coil and I never could get the air forks dialed the way I wanted them to. The coil version felt soooo much nicer to me. Some people like the air, but not me.
 

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I just converted my Totem Solo Air to Coil (but don't have enough ride to compare yet). But I do agree with woodyak, the Totem Air is nice but can be a little harsh over stutter bumps. Not bad, but could be smoother.
 

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shh. don't tell the wife
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Does anyone know if the Lyrik DH damper will retrofit into a 2009 U-turn?
 

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Perpetual Hack
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It appears as the answer is YES!!

Update your old Lyrik
If you've got an older Lyrik and are looking to get some updated internals, RockShox hasn't left you high and dry. You can retrofit your old fork with the updated rebound and the new Motion Control (DH or standard) damper as well.
  • The new Mission Control Damper ($110 MSRP) (vendor part #: 11.4015.415.020)
  • The new dual flow rebound ($80 MSRP) (vendor part #: 11.4015.416.020)
taken from....

http://www.sicklines.com/2010/01/26/spotlight-2010-rockshox-lyrik-dh-coil-170mm/

I'm liking the looks of the 170 Lyrik.

michael
 

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Supposed to be in the box

woodyak said:
Is the fork supposed to come with the adapter? I'm getting it through a shop.

What is the purpose of the air assist? Is it a must to have air or can you run it empty?
But I had two seperate forks shipped to me (shipped the wrong fork the first time), one had the adapter, one didnt. Dom's fork showed up without one also. The air assist is just to fine tune the spring rate, almost certain you can run no air, but its nice to be able to fine tune it to get the sag just right. I found that it is best to let all the air out of the chamber everytime you adjust it and just count how many strokes of air you are putting in. I heard through the grapevine Fox is debuting their 180mm fork at Sea Otter.
 

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I going to try the 170mm Lyric DH on my '10 DT. I'm a little concerned about the stiffness considering I will then have smaller stantions on my DT than on my Endo (36 TALAS on the endo) but I really want to try the new DH damper and I think 170mm will be the sweet spot for the way I'm setting my DT up. It will be a heavy duty do everything bike that will primarily be used on our more abusive trails that still have a ton of pedaling and climbing. I have the v-tach for shuttling/park riding and this way I can run some lighter tires on my Endo and make it even better for the epic rides. The two bikes will overlap heavily but I'm okay with that.
 

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shh. don't tell the wife
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Its a tough 3 Knolly life you have to live Gary. Tough indeed :)

I'm tempted to try the DH damper, but I've got a bug to work out of my fork first. Namely, the maxle coming loose when riding. Its a bit sketchy but I haven't lost the front wheel yet.
 

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I could be addicted to worse things than bikes I suppose...

If the 170 Lyric DH doesn't come with too many first year bugs I think that fork is going to go off big time this year. There are so many super light 6ish" travel bikes out there now that it will work perfectly on.

I feel sorry for any shop trying to decide which of the 16 variations of Lyric to stock though.
 

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I'm curious how different the DH damper is from just removing the floodgate guts on a regular fork. Several people have done the floodgate-ectomy procedure on the shocks forum and report better small bump compliance, and the ability to run thicker weight damping oil (for more adjustment). I'm going to do this next time I service my fork.

mykel: you've found one of the serious pluses about recent Rock Shox--it's easy to get new parts. I re-built my 3 year old Lyrik last fall with new sliders (with bushings + seals) and new stanchions for a very reasonable amount of $$, and it was like a brand new fork. I will probably upgrade the rebound assembly to the DH this summer (if I don't get a 180mm fork for DH).
 

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RE; Brake rotor

I swear every single thread I see like this I will respond to, until people figure it out.

There is NO reason to use a smaller rotor on the rear. These are not cars. Cars outweigh the driver by 20 fold. Center of mass is constant on a car, thus deceleration puts a lot of weight on the front tires. With bikes this is not true, the center of mass changes as you move backward over the seat/rear tire. Unless you stay seated when you are braking you should have equal rotors. In fact, if one was to argue the point, a larger rear brake is probably more important. Which would you rather lock up? Or, just feel the rotors after a downhill, and see which one gets hotter. It should always be the rear, or equal.

get 2x180mm if you are worried about weight. For me, I like a ligher touch, so I use the biggest brakes I can find (using Saints atm).
 
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