Not for a Cat. 1 winning XC racer. You'll be fine. :thumbsup:juan_speeder said:
Not for a Cat. 1 winning XC racer. You'll be fine. :thumbsup:juan_speeder said:Will a Delirium with a 66 be too much to climb with?
Turning the pedals isn't going to be an issue, even at 35-37 pounds.NoahColorado said:Not for a Cat. 1 winning XC racer. You'll be fine. :thumbsup:
Climbing with a 180mm fork on the DT is no problem. I've been riding mine with a Totem here in New England for over a year. Everything from long boring fireroad grinders to real steep techy climbs and I have no problem keeping the front end down. Sure it's not optimal but it's worth it for everything else this frame brings to the table. I run mine with a 60mm stem and a set of 2" riser bars and a 2 spacer stack under the stem. If you're worried about the geo you could get a flush headset to drop things down even further. I say go for it.juan_speeder said:Turning the pedals isn't going to be an issue, even at 35-37 pounds.
I wanna know if I can keep the front wheel on the ground with a 50mm stem and 180mm fork.
I really do like the fact that Knollys come with nice short head tubes. I'll probably run one of those Sunline flat bars. In my (limited) experience, a low bar makes up for all kinds of slackness and travel on steep climbs, and helps me weight the front on looser corners. Though, this will be the slackest longest travel bike I've owned by far, so what do I know?
Perfect. I just wanted someone to chime in and say "it's doable".woodyak said:Climbing with a 180mm fork on the DT is no problem. I've been riding mine with a Totem here in New England for over a year. Everything from long boring fireroad grinders to real steep techy climbs and I have no problem keeping the front end down. Sure it's not optimal but it's worth it for everything else this frame brings to the table. I run mine with a 60mm stem and a set of 2" riser bars and a 2 spacer stack under the stem. If you're worried about the geo you could get a flush headset to drop things down even further. I say go for it.
Heh.craigstr said:Regardless, it sounds like you could push a sherman tank up the hill.
More than do-able. I think it climbs quite well actually. I have the older frame and mine chimes in at 38 lbs. with a Totem coil, CCDB w/TI spring, Mavic 721's, etc. The newer frame could easily be brought down to the 36, 37 lb. range with a less burly build.juan_speeder said:Perfect. I just wanted someone to chime in and say "it's doable".
Now, to pull the trigger.
Thanks.
That all sounds good to me.PsyCro said:OT: Welcome to the world of Ultimate All-Mountain. As mentioned above, its absolutely doable. You get a comfy ride, and performance when you turn downhill or onto rough terrain in general. The long rides you talk about are not doable even on a light XC bike if the rider is not fit. A fit rider like yourself can do 'em on light bikes or heavy bikes, its just a matter of changing riding style.
I would even go as far as saying that you don't get tired more on a heavier bike, but rather lose a bit on average speed.. you just get forced into a different 'zone'. Naturally if you try to keep high speed on flat terrain you will get more tired, but like i said, its a different style of riding.. a rewarding one imo. Actually, i even read somewhere that the steeper the climb, the less weight plays a role.
Geometry on the DT is totally pedal friendly, but a travel adjust fork is useful if you have reeeally steep climbs, keep that in mind.
I ride a 41lb bike with dual ply tires and an older travel adjust 66 for all day riding, and i know why i do it. If you think that's the thing for you as well, go for it!!
ps. 37lbs is certainly not impossible to achieve.
I could have sworn, that in another thread, you stated that a 66's crown/knobs might hit the downtube in this configuration. Or was that with the pre-'10 frames?knollybikes.com said:Hi juan_speeder!
Also, as you mentioned, with a 1.125 steerer on the 66, you should be able to run a zero stack headset which will help keep the front end reasonably low to help get over the front of the bike.
Cheers!
Yup, exactly.GaryM said:Yes, the curved downtube on the '10's has improved fork clearance.
Hey Noel,knollybikes.com said:Yup, exactly.
Two differences in the 2010 Deliriums are that - as Gary mentioned - the curved down tube provides better fork crown clearance; and secondly the front derailleur cable guides are now located on the top of the down tube instead of underneath it.
These two changes mean that there is a lot more fork crown clearance underneath the down tube now. However, you will STILL want to check fork crown / down tube clearance with any zero stack headset as fork manufacturers seem to have a bit of a habit of changing knob heights throughout production runs. Also, some forks like the Totem have knobs with parts that pop up, or like previous gen 66 ATAs can flip open: this will obviously further decrease fork / down tube clearance.
Also, because the angle of the down tube changes for every frame size, not every frame will have the exact same clearance. I guess what I'm saying is that we've done our best to ensure that the major forks on the market will work with zero stack headsets on the new Deliriums: however, be smart and ensure that you know exactly what your situation is when you build up your bike.
Cheers!
LOL - yes, the office was closed last week - we're now back in full force and getting caught up on e-mails!juan_speeder said:Hey Noel,
Since I seem to have a better chance of getting answers here in lieu of via email - not that I care, it's the holidays and all...
Do you know what the BB height will be, in the lowest setting, with a 180mm 66 and a zerostack headset?
Are we still looking at March availability?
What's the bottom point on which the seat tube length is based?
Raw will be a color option, no?
What spring rate for someone 175 lbs all geared up?
Thanks,
Juan