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Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This has been on a few forums here and there. The rebound damper seal head, and the negative spring housing of some initial product runs were too short, resulting in a highly annoying clicking noise. Not sure if a performance issue or not, but still...

Rock Shox has a fix - sending out new bits via warranty. However, I bought my 2010 Race model slightly used/deeply discounted, and figured to tear in and see about my own fix... I'm assuming the seller didn't know about the fix or didn't care to pursue it, or bought another fork.



I took two thin BB cup spacers, cut them down, and re-rolled them to fit and take up space in the areas needed. Works a treat, sits securely, and has made the fork uber-quiet.

It's held nicely captive by the seal had and inner stanchion walls - no way to migrate anywhere.



Sweet!



Yes, it's a pinner air shock in back. Get over it. I'm small, don't go big, and the DH runs around me tend to be short.
 

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I noticed an anoying click on my 2010 race allso. It had been in the storage for months and when I took it out it made a clicking noise when you compress the fork. I'll tear it down and check if it's the same problem.

Is the sealhead flat on the other side? Not shown in your pic.
 

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Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
enemy1 said:
I noticed an anoying click on my 2010 race allso. It had been in the storage for months and when I took it out it made a clicking noise when you compress the fork. I'll tear it down and check if it's the same problem.

Is the sealhead flat on the other side? Not shown in your pic.
Yeah. Caveat: if your fork is newly bought, you should be able to get the fix from SRAM for free. Or if you just want to tear into it and see what is up, go for it. I don't know the part numbers in particular, but any decent shop ought to be able to order them. AFAIK, they have been pretty quick about getting the fix to people. It's been addressed in newer production runs, but depending on what run your fork is from, it obviously may not have the new bits. As I have heard and read, the damper seal head and the negative spring bits are just slightly taller, which takes up the space, preventing the movement/clicking. I don't think anything is different form a performance perspective, but don't know that for sure.

Yes, the other side is flat. The washer is against the side facing up in the pic, which is the side sitting "up" when the fork/bike is upright. The fitment between the seal head there, and against the little stepped bit inside the stanchion *should* prevent anything from dislodging. Even should it, it would be upwards, and everything would still be held in and together by the two snap rings anyhow.

Here you go. The bit pertaining to the race model is in the last couple minutes or so.

 

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Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
boogenman said:
looks like black ano aluminum but I couldn't tell. That is a good thing, the white plastic in the previous motion control boxxer was a freaking joke:nono:
Felt, and had the heft of aluminum. The too short bit on the spring side is as well. Took me maybe 20 minutes all told to get things set.

I love the RS stuff of the past few years - stupid easy to work on. And the new Boxxer thing, coming with both crowns and three different springs in the box is a nice touch.

Thinking I'll be pretty happy with the Race model here. I'm not a racer, nor a hucker, just like to hit the resorts and a few shuttles during the season. Getting it slightly used, a good chunk of retail was a nice deal as well. :thumbsup:
 

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I got the Race when it first came out, and mine had that problem. Didn't seem to affect performance, but annoying. When I took mine apart for an oil change, I did a similar thing to you where I ghetto'd my own spacer to put in there to take up the slack, and voila fixed.

I called Universal Cycles, where I bought the fork, back in October and asked them if there were any recalls or known issues about this "clicking". They said they didn't know and I should call SRAM myself. So I called SRAM and left a message and never got a call back.

Maybe I should call again as it seems they know about the issue and have actual parts to fix it.
 

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oldskoolbiker said:
I got the Race when it first came out, and mine had that problem. Didn't seem to affect performance, but annoying. When I took mine apart for an oil change, I did a similar thing to you where I ghetto'd my own spacer to put in there to take up the slack, and voila fixed.

I called Universal Cycles, where I bought the fork, back in October and asked them if there were any recalls or known issues about this "clicking". They said they didn't know and I should call SRAM myself. So I called SRAM and left a message and never got a call back.

Maybe I should call again as it seems they know about the issue and have actual parts to fix it.
Curiously I just now got an e-mail from Universal Cycles notifying me of this warranty fix, and they would be getting the parts from SRAM and sending to them to me free of charge.
 

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oldskoolbiker said:
Curiously I just now got an e-mail from Universal Cycles notifying me of this warranty fix, and they would be getting the parts from SRAM and sending to them to me free of charge.
Good to hear.

If you can post up a pic of the parts they send you. I want to see if all they replace is the seal housing assembly with a slightly taller one and a new wave spring.
 

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Awww, this sucks. I just bought a brand new boxxer race from a dude who never rode it on his new Demo 8, but chose to upgrade to a Fox 40 right away.

Now I find out that it has this problem and my local bike shop tells me I'll have to pay $100+ just to get the part that should have been in there in the first place.

How lame is that? SRAM should man up and take care of a manufacturing defect like this regardless of whether the fork was bought from a shop or not... it's brand new.
 

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Ok, a bit of a noob's question here. The only fork i've opened myself is my very old boxxer race 04, so i'm not really sure what i'm supposed to do. my boxxer race 2010 has been clicking ever since day 1, but we have a really poor warranty coverage here in bulgaria, so this type of fix is what i'd be looking for. So how do I get to this rebound damper seal head? And do I only need to cut those BB spasers so they fit inside the uppders precicely, or is there more to it?
Cheers and sry for the noob question
 
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