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2009 SX Trail Upgrade

1758 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  tsivis83
Hey guys,

I got an 09 SX Trail 1 stock right now and I'm about to upgrade some things. I use my bike for AM mostly.

1. Drivetrain: 1x9 with 32t single and new shimano cassette 12/36t or Hammerschmidt 24/38 and 11/34t cassette?

Currently running 24/36t double ring setup with 11/34t cassette. I can go everywhere with this setup (up - down - cruise...) but I hate the front derailleur and the crappy Gamut double ring guide. I can feel the drag of the pulley which is like $h!t... The Gamut bashring is also just a cheap piece of plastic... these have to go. The Stylo cranks are fine for now, maybe a new bottom bracket but only if needed. The hammerschmidt is expensive so I got to be convinced that its worth it. The 1x9 seems to be very nice although it limits the gearing... :confused:

2. Fork: it will be either a 36 or a lyrik with 160mm of travel but thats not the point. Should I choose a travel adjust fork or not?? Right now the Domain at 160mm and 545mm a2c height doesnt seem to limit my climbing capability. Should I choose a non travel adjustable 160mm air fork or a 160mm U-turn lyrik?? Ofcourse the main reason of the fork swap will be the weight loss. the domain right now is about 2800 grams. A solo air or a float will be about 2100 or 2200 grams. Thats more than half a kilo!! A uturn though is about 2500grams...

So these are my concerns. Please do not suggest other places than these in order to save weight.

I know that I could post this thread to the drivetrain or the suspension forums but since its an SX trail I suppose the Specialized forum would be the best.

Looking forward to ur answers guys!!
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I'd imagine AM would be a bit difficult on the climbs with a single ring on that bike. Also, the Hammer does have significant drag in the overdrive. you're kind of stuck between a rock and a hard place with those two choices. A lot of people like the hammer ... I am not sure how sensitive to drag they are though.

I don't think travel adjust is necessary, especially if you get a long just dandy without it currently. an air fork will be much lighter as you said, but many feel (not all) it has inferior ride qualities.

There are many places to lose weight, including tires, tubeless, wheels, handlebars, saddle, seatpost, ti spring (or an air shock swap), etc etc. too many to list.
Weight will come down with the use of new wheels, tubeless tyres, new spring for the rear shock and an air fork. the handlebar will be replaced by a wider one and the seatpost will be replaced by a longer one.

The problem is that I am coming from a full DH/FR Specialized Big Hit and the trails I ride are too much for a Specialized Enduro. I really can't choose an other brand where I live... I am pretty much stuck with the SX Trail in an AM version...

As for the Gear Ratios for climbing: A 32t front with a 36t rear gives a 32 / 36 = 0,89. Right now I have a 24 / 34 = 0,71.
tsivis83 said:
The problem is that I am coming from a full DH/FR Specialized Big Hit and the trails I ride are too much for a Specialized Enduro.
If its too much for an Enduro, can you really call it a trail anymore? Or is it more like a freefall where your tires occasionally brush the ground.
thrasher_s said:
If its too much for an Enduro, can you really call it a trail anymore? Or is it more like a freefall where your tires occasionally brush the ground.
I chose the SX Trail over the enduro for the same reason some people choose the Delirium over the Endorfin, the Uzzi over the Tracer VP, the Nomad over the Blur and so and so... No need for any more explanation.

What I asked for is opinions about the gearing on this type of bike ( relatively heavy long travel AM/FR bike) and its climbing capability with the gear posted on the first post of this thread.

I am very happy with the HS (24 tooth direct drive, 38 OD, w a 11-34 cassettte). There is noticable drag in OD but since the chainline never changes, you can use direct drive for gears 1 - 9 without any problem. When I go into OD, I just use cog 7, 8, & 9 (almost always downhill for me). Personally, I could not pedal a 32 single ring up many of the trails I ride. If you can, the single ring is a helluva lot simpler, cheaper, & much lighter.

Can't say much about those forks. I use my travel adjust for steep climbs, but it's not much good for anything else. What you save in weight on the fork, you'll add back at least twice with the HS.
I had good luck with a Black Spire Stinger guide up front. Its a two ring number with bash (36/24). I would not get rid of the Gamut Bash. It is light and strong. The hammershit is a well crafted peice but I have only been on one for a couple minutes.

The lyric is nice and yes adustable geo makes a difference on that bike.

Weels and tires are going to be the biggest diff for sure.

And maybe get a gravity dropper seatpost. Specialized has one now that is pretty sweet.
You could lose a lot of weight by changing out the tires. Those chunders are not the lightest tires. But if you really wanted to save some weight and you ride mostly AM then I would recommend the Enduro.
The gamut bash is already broken. I need a strong bash. When I had my big hit about a year ago, at the same place where I broke the gamut bash, I broke my chainring, my chain and the Crank arm tabs. I was using an LG1. It was changed then to an SRS. The gamut did its job and protected the chainrings of the SX Trail but now its broken. I think an e13 would do the job better. The pulley of the double gamut chainguide sucks though. At least for me... It has to be replaced.

The fact that pedaling to the top with a 32t sing ring setup with a chainguide is difficult is why I am considering the new shimano cassette 12/36t. It weighs though about 450gr. There is a thread about this cassette on the 29er forum.

As for the rims, they are ordered and paid already. Mavic XM819 32h. I will lace them on the Stock Specialized hubs. The spokes are already DT Comp tapered 2.0/1.8/2.0. Tubeless tyres are to be chosen soon, Probably Maxxis UST. I don't know though if it would be better to convert the existing rims to tubeless with the Stan's Freeride kit and mount normal tyres on...

Thanks for the input guys, keep it coming!!
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