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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just picked up a shiny new 2008 Minute Elite with Absolute Dampening and IT travel adjust, and with the 20mm hex axle.

So far only one ride but heading out tonight again and want to verify I am in the correct ballpark in terms of setup. Right off the bat I really liked how stiff the fork was compared to my previous QR fork. Still working on getting better with the IT, but I am sure that I will become more proficient with it over time. Now to the questions.

First off to confirm that there is only one air valve. With the Minute IT the air valve is on the bottom left. I have about 120-125psi. I weigh about 180lb + gear, so likely 190 geared. Do this sound about right. I have tried it at a lower settup but am concerned that when running the fork at reduced travel (100mm - 110mm range) I can bottom it via simple parking lot bounce test. Perhaps more oil is required.

I skimmed through a lengthy thread on the 29r board that spoke on consistently low oil levels when the forks are shipped. But am a little hesitant to open up a brand new fork. Not to mention some of the posts spoke of issues on getting the assembly re-seated with the dampening working again.

Which brings me to the last point. The absolute dampening, really seems to have only 2 clicks that are usable. Wide open seems fine, but I still need to get is on some high speed sections to see if it is open/plush enough. The first click would be good for smooth sections, the second click is not locked but very firm. From there the third, fourth, and fifth clicks are all but locked. Perhaps more time on the fork will break this in, but I was thinking that adding more oil (say 10cc increments), then lowering air pressure might provide a better range of adjustment.

The only other option would be to look at drilling out the ports on the dampening. This idea was suggested and done by a couple of people on the 29r board. This is above my level of ability, but the area I live in has a shop that repairs and mods suspension.

I have seen other posts where Racerveza (Deny Yunk from Hayes Bike Group) chimes in and would apprieciate some feedback here.

Cheers

Jeff
 

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I have an '05 Minute 3:00 I run the IT pressure at ~120psi, and I weigh 150lb.
Your '08 may have a different chamber size, but my point is, at your weight you might be using too little pressure, especially since it's bottoming easily at lower travel settings. Mine doesn't.

Try setting the damper to fully active, and try different pressures till the sag is ~20%, then ride it and try playing with the damper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't want to add and air pressure as it is already pretty firm at the beginning of the travel and any increase in the PSI only seems to make the platform settings harsher.

The adjustment to add oil and drop the PSI, if it works should be good one. Increase the bottom of stroke ramp up with additional oil, while also increasing small bump compliance by dropping air pressure.

FWIW, I don't bottom out a full travel or near full travel at 125 psi, it is only when the fork is dropped to 100mm or so that the fork can be bottommed out by bounce testing.

Hopefully the ride tonight will break in the fork some more.
 

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Which brings me to the last point. The absolute dampening, really seems to have only 2 clicks that are usable. Wide open seems fine, but I still need to get is on some high speed sections to see if it is open/plush enough. The first click would be good for smooth sections, the second click is not locked but very firm. From there the third, fourth, and fifth clicks are all but locked. Perhaps more time on the fork will break this in, but I was thinking that adding more oil (say 10cc increments), then lowering air pressure might provide a better range of adjustment.
I too found this with my Elite 140 with Absolute damper. However, with a few months of riding on it, even position 3 has movement, albeit stiffer than position 2. So now I use 1,2,3 and 5. Not sure about the adding oil and reducing air pressure, but let us know if it works for you.
 

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I have 2008 Elite 140 with Absolute damper 20mm :

weigh the same 180lb + gear, so likely 190
Psi 85 - 90 (max 50% of body weigh)
Sag about 30mm (20-25%)

On my Heckler with this setup and doing droops 5 feet geting almoust full travel

Setra
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Setra said:
I have 2008 Elite 140 with Absolute damper 20mm :

weigh the same 180lb + gear, so likely 190
Psi 85 - 90 (max 50% of body weigh)
Sag about 30mm (20-25%)

On my Heckler with this setup and doing droops 5 feet geting almoust full travel

Setra
Setra
Thanks for the feedback, you pretty much confirmed what I thought. My fork set at full travel does not seem to bottom out at lower air pressure, I have tried as low as 100psi, but will bottom out at lower pressure if the travel is reduced.

My thinking is that based around Manitou's claim that with their air spring the spring rate will remain the same as travel is reduced. So if I have the full 140mm travel available and hit a bump and use 110 mm of travel no big deal, but if I have the travel reduced to 100mm and hit the same bump that required 110mm of travel, then I will bottom out. That is of course unless I have increased the oil level to ramp up the end of stroke resistance.

Hey Manitou guys, Racerveza, let me know if I am understanding the IT system correctly with regard to increasing oil levels.
 

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... and i only use position 0; 1 and Lockout in the Absolute.

Position 0 Rocky downhill and dropps;
1 Flat and Single Track with small obstacles
5 Long Uphill

Sorry about my english

Setra (Portugal)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
setting update

Setra said:
I have 2008 Elite 140 with Absolute damper 20mm :
weigh the same 180lb + gear, so likely 190
Psi 85 - 90 (max 50% of body weigh)
Sag about 30mm (20-25%)

On my Heckler with this setup and doing droops 5 feet geting almoust full travel

Setra
I did another ride last night and seemed to lacking energy to push it for long periods so it was a great opportunity to try some fork settings.

The fork is definately getting smoother as I get more hours on it, hopefully it will continue. With more time on the fork it almost seems that the bottom out is getting stronger even with less pressure than I was previously using???

I dropped the air pressure in 5 psi increments and got down to just under 110psi with no ill effects. I don't have any 5w fork oil, so I didn't bother to even open up the fork, but would still like to add 10 cc and see what that does along with dropping the air pressure to 100psi.

One thing I did notice was the fork almost seemed to top out when hitting mutiple bumps, does anyone else notice this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Updated info for forks with IT

I was getting my ISX-6 fixed by a service shop in Vancouver and found out some interesting info on the setup of my Manitou Minute Absoluate for with IT. After adding or removing air to the fork, you need to engage the IT switch, preferably with the pump attached. This will equalize the pressure between the two chamber (not sure if that is the proper term).

To add or remove air from the shock with IT, the recommendation is to have the bike sitting upside down so oil does not come out of the air valve. With the pump still attached after adding or removing air, toggle the IT switch to equalize the pressure. When I did this on my fork I started with about 100psi and pumped it up to 120, after hitting the IT switch the pressure dropped to about 110 psi. If you don't do this you will not have an accurate reading on the fork air pressure.

Just thought I would throw this out their. BTW, the fork is working better with every ride.
 

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Oil forks

I just installed may absolutes and even upside down, lots of oil came out. In my opinion this is a bad peice of design as the disk is right near the valve. My forks came with 150 PSI in them. It took about ten minutes to get it down to 80. Every time I reequalised using the IT lever the pressure would rise again. This makes it a little hard to get the right pressure. The oil that came out was very well mixed with air(colloidal), probably because they had been at high altitude. I ordered them for the USA and I live in Australia. Took 7 weeks from time of order, at least they cost nearly half what bike shops here are charging. I just hope the hassle was worth it. The main reason I bought them was for the 20mm axel.

Well it is winter here and raining so I haven't had a ride yet. Maybe tomorrow.
 

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Yo. Sorry for not catching this earlier. I'm going to defer to my Manitou tech bretheren on this one. Give 'em a holler at the number in my signature. After you talk with them, please post back and share what you learn.
 

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Yes please get back to us:thumbsup: Ive just fiited a 140 IT to Mojo and these are my findings-
First off the paint on around the 4 bolts holding the through axle bubbles and flaked off...bit of a shame, also I have a knock in my fork, does anyone else have this?
I like the fork after riding it for only 2 hours, it feels quite plush and getting better. Im running it at a much lower pressure than you guys, around 70 psi after pressing the IT lever, if I run it higher its a bit stiff in its upper travel, I fired it down some fast and rough downhill and still didnt botton it out once at this pressure:thumbsup: . The IT lever works well but I am finding the same as rideitall in that its very easy to botton out the fork on reduced travel, its also very hard to return the fork to full travel without getting off the bike?
 

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Pretty much the same

I finally did a long ride on my manitous

james beaumont said:
Yes please get back to us:thumbsup: Ive just fiited a 140 IT to Mojo and these are my findings-
First off the paint on around the 4 bolts holding the through axle bubbles and flaked off...bit of a shame, also I have a knock in my fork, does anyone else have this?
Yes the paint has started to peel on mine as well. I was running my forks at 80 psi and thhey were ok but I wasn't using full travel. When I wen down to 70 psi they felt like a DH rig and then they started making a knocking noise, probably at top at but it is only doing it on larger hits. I added a bit of extra air 75 psi and this works very well for me but the knocking is still there. I also have to pop a wheelie to get the travel to return to full. Now I'm wishing I didn't get the IT. Can it be removed from the fork? Are there any instructions on howto do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Another Update

I will be taking my brand new Minute (4-5 rides old), to be repairs/serviced ...

After verifying that the oil level was spot on to the recommended levels, I measured the full range of travel my 140 mm IT fork would get. It turns out that at best the fork will provide 110-115mm of travel, then bottoms out to a definative metal clank. I activated the travel adjust lever and push down the fork as far as it would go. Oil residue from the fork seals remained on the stanchion as a measuring point back down to the seal.

I was told that the bottom out assembly spacers/bushings have not likely been installed properly resulting in the fork bottoming out far too early. This also explains why I am able to bottom out the fork too easy even at higher than normal air pressure, as the oil in the leg will not get a chance provide the bottom out resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update on Manitou Elite IT

It's been a busy last couple of weeks and haven't had much time to update outcome of the issue with my Minute Elite IT fork. I called the Manitou Tech/Warranty number and spoke with Shanan who listened to me whine and complain about the fork for a while then offered up a fix.

A brand new fork was sent out to me after it was double checked. I received the fork and installed and to date only have test rides around the hood, but there is a night and day difference on the fork. It is more plush and ramps up at the end of stroke as you would expect. Most of all there is no metal cluck 1 - 1 1/2 inches before bottom out. If the fork still needs break in time to really feel smooth, I have no doubts this fork will perform, because it feels really good right now.

It looks like a bit of a mftr/assembly snafu was the cause for the original fork being messed up. Two more were found at Hayes/Manitou with the same issue. It looks like only 1 or 2 went out the door with the problem and I got one of them. (make note to self to buy lottery ticket, it seems I have a way with odds)

So even though I had a setback with a brand new fork, in the end I would say the overall it was still positive. Despite some saying Manitou does not take care of it's customers, my
experience showed the opposite. Manitou customer service stepped up big time and made things right.

What is still uncertain is how the fork will perform over time, but at least I can ride with knowing I do have good customer service to back up the product should something happen to it.
 

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Hello,

I bought a Manitou Minute Elite Absolute IT (0-140 mm) on January 2009 (2007 view on fork's T)

Since the beginning i have an issue :
When i ride the fork is slowly going down, i loose approx 10mm by 5 minutes then i must puch the IT remote to make the fork going up
If i don't puch the IT remote control the fork can go down untill the end of travel

Well, i made a full service (all inside the left leg seems ok), i tried with less/more oil, less/more air the problem isn't solved.
It's a pity because without this issue, this fork is great.

Someone had/have the same issue ?

Just because it can be used for some people ...
Inside the Manitou Minute Elite Absolute IT
 

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sonikbuzz said:
Hello,

I bought a Manitou Minute Elite Absolute IT (0-140 mm) on January 2009 (2007 view on fork's T)

Since the beginning i have an issue :
When i ride the fork is slowly going down, i loose approx 10mm by 5 minutes then i must puch the IT remote to make the fork going up
If i don't puch the IT remote control the fork can go down untill the end of travel

Well, i made a full service (all inside the left leg seems ok), i tried with less/more oil, less/more air the problem isn't solved.
It's a pity because without this issue, this fork is great.

Someone had/have the same issue ?

Just because it can be used for some people ...
Inside the Manitou Minute Elite Absolute IT
Sonikbuzz, did you ever resolve this? I have new forks with the same prlem.

MaTT
 

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yea, i dont know how to take them on and off the bike. so if i have to send them back twice it will end up costing me a fortune. plus i need to book the bike in 2 weeks in advance for work. thanks for your answer
 
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