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2007 SID WC Question

768 Views 4 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  bad mechanic
Posted this on the Suspension Forum but no luck, so seeing as this WW related question I thought I'd try my luck here seeing as I reckon this to be the most tech savy forum regardless.

I have an 07 SID WC on one of my bikes.

At the moment I am running a Push Lock on the fork but am wanting to move over to a crown mounted lockout.

Am I right in saying that I need to replace the whole cartridge, ( as you do with Rebas) or can I just ( God Willing), remove the remote collar, (on the fork crown), the blue cable guide and the return spring and then replace the lot with the crown mounted lockout lever?

Thanks in advance.
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I also have a sid wc fork and wanted to do the same thing. Asked the local shop, they called Rock shox and :madman: you have to replace the entire Black box Motion control damper. Think they said it was about $200.
Oh well, I think I am still going to do it. Like the adjustment for compression, instead of the on off switch.
I have the 2007 WC model and I had the same situation. What I did was to remove the floodgate thumb adjuster, then remove the blue remote push lock cable guide.

Underneath you will find a return spring. Remove that spring and put it aside. Now put everything back together. You will be able to lock or unlock the fork by turning the blue cable guide. It's a bit loose so maybe a suitable O ring in between will increase the friction.

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Awesome, thanks for the idea. I have a proper crown mounted lock out lever on order but I'll follow you advice until it arrives.

Thanks :)
You can just remove the collar and cable, and then disconnect the return spring. As I think has been suggested, put an o-ring under the LSC knob for added friction.

On the BB it's harder to disconnect the return spring but very doable. You'll need to pull the BB MoCo unit out, and then drill out the rivets holding the top cap in place on the titanium spring tube. Remove/disconnect the return spring, and then use pop rivets to reattach everything. Sand the top of the pop rivets down to ensure they don't make contact with the inside of the stanchion.
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