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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lets hear em!

I got the 06 Z1 light RC2/ETA/TAS fork on my bike and I am trying to get it set up properly. The Zoke manual is not very helpful, to say the least. The fork is past the stiction stage and feels great on big bumps, but I have some complaints.

I have heard very different set up tips so far, for this fork. Ie; Everyone seems to be exceeding the air limit for pre-load. I can't even find the limit in the useless manual. I weigh around 205-210lbs without gear and I am wondering what some recommendations are.

Also, are the ETA and TAS, one in the same? I have the ETA on the left leg and as far as I know, the fork is the TAS version as well. I have heard of a couple people on mtbr, missing a TAS knob or something or other. On my fork, there is only one ETA switch on the left fork leg.

Using the ETA, I can get the fork down to around two inches of stanchion showing. I want to know what exactly the TAS does? The problem I have is that when I flick on the ETA, the fork continues to lower on each successive large bump. I really don't like this. I want useable travel at every interval. Is it possible to achieve this?

My last fork was a Pike and I much prefer the U-turn over the ETA for travel reduction. It is not even close imo.
 

· Just another FOC'er
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ronny said:
Lets hear em!
I have heard very different set up tips so far, for this fork. Ie; Everyone seems to be exceeding the air limit for pre-load. I can't even find the limit in the useless manual. I weigh around 205-210lbs without gear and I am wondering what some recommendations are.
I'd guess 50 psi or something. I thing the 'positive air' are the right numbers because it's an all air leg.

ronny said:
Also, are the ETA and TAS, one in the same? I have the ETA on the left leg and as far as I know, the fork is the TAS version as well. I have heard of a couple people on mtbr, missing a TAS knob or something or other. On my fork, there is only one ETA switch on the left fork leg.
TAS is travel adjust, I think 130mm to 150mm travel. It's probably on the bottom of the left leg. The ETA lever's on the top.

ronny said:
Using the ETA, I can get the fork down to around two inches of stanchion showing. I want to know what exactly the TAS does? The problem I have is that when I flick on the ETA, the fork continues to lower on each successive large bump. I really don't like this. I want useable travel at every interval. Is it possible to achieve this?
Yup that's the way ETA works. It ratchets down and there's no way to make it work differently. You can use the TAS to reduce the height 20mm, but that's all. It does stay active though with the TAS reduction. 20mm is about 1 degree head angle.

ronny said:
My last fork was a Pike and I much prefer the U-turn over the ETA for travel reduction. It is not even close imo.
I'm just the opposite. I love ETA and hate the U-turn method because it takes to long to adjust.
 

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ronny said:
Lets hear em!

I got the 06 Z1 light RC2/ETA/TAS fork on my bike and I am trying to get it set up properly. The Zoke manual is not very helpful, to say the least. The fork is past the stiction stage and feels great on big bumps, but I have some complaints.

I have heard very different set up tips so far, for this fork. Ie; Everyone seems to be exceeding the air limit for pre-load. I can't even find the limit in the useless manual. I weigh around 205-210lbs without gear and I am wondering what some recommendations are.

Also, are the ETA and TAS, one in the same? I have the ETA on the left leg and as far as I know, the fork is the TAS version as well. I have heard of a couple people on mtbr, missing a TAS knob or something or other. On my fork, there is only one ETA switch on the left fork leg.

Using the ETA, I can get the fork down to around two inches of stanchion showing. I want to know what exactly the TAS does? The problem I have is that when I flick on the ETA, the fork continues to lower on each successive large bump. I really don't like this. I want useable travel at every interval. Is it possible to achieve this?

My last fork was a Pike and I much prefer the U-turn over the ETA for travel reduction. It is not even close imo.
There are some other threads on this topic if you do a search.

First of you should check the oil levels. If you're mechanically inclined you should have no problem. You have to remove the top caps compress the fork all the way, take the spring out and measure from the top of the stantion to the top of the oil on each side. So far I have been told three different measurements, 40mm,50mm, and 60mm. One side of my fork had the oil at 150mm from the top, way too low. The more oil there is the more the fork ramps up at the end of the stroke. Right now I have them both at 60mm. Another guy here has his at 50mm ETA side and 70mm RC2 side.

I get 22% sag with no air pressure and I'm 175lbs and I was bottoming easily until I checked the oil levels. IMO, from reading the manual there should be only 0-15psi of air to attain the proper spring rate but like you said people seem to be using very different setups.

I like the U-Turn system better as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.

.Danno. said:
I'd guess 50 psi or something. I thing the 'positive air' are the right numbers because it's an all air leg.

TAS is travel adjust, I think 130mm to 150mm travel. It's probably on the bottom of the left leg. The ETA lever's on the top.

Yup that's the way ETA works. It ratchets down and there's no way to make it work differently. You can use the TAS to reduce the height 20mm, but that's all. It does stay active though with the TAS reduction. 20mm is about 1 degree head angle.

I'm just the opposite. I love ETA and hate the U-turn method because it takes to long to adjust.
I have 50psi in the chamber right now. The fork seems to be working well at this pressure.

I have heard people say that the U-turn method takes too long, but it only took me a few turns to have the travel, where I needed it. Which equates to a few seconds, tops. With the Pike, you have useable travel at any increment in the forks travel, which I really liked as well. The ETA does not really have useable travel at its lowest setting. Something like 30mm. There is around 4" of useable travel at the Pikes lowest setting, which helps when you are riding a trail that has numerous hills and you can just keep it at the lower travel setting until the final descent.

There is always a trade off I guess. The Zoke is more suited to my bike, as the rear travel on my Evo is 6". I will be trying the Pike on it soon. The new RS Lyric will probably be the best of both worlds.

Later.
 

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ronny said:
I have 50psi in the chamber right now. The fork seems to be working well at this pressure.

I have heard people say that the U-turn method takes too long, but it only took me a few turns to have the travel, where I needed it. Which equates to a few seconds, tops. With the Pike, you have useable travel at any increment in the forks travel, which I really liked as well. The ETA does not really have useable travel at its lowest setting. Something like 30mm. There is around 4" of useable travel at the Pikes lowest setting, which helps when you are riding a trail that has numerous hills and you can just keep it at the lower travel setting until the final descent.

There is always a trade off I guess. The Zoke is more suited to my bike, as the rear travel on my Evo is 6". I will be trying the Pike on it soon. The new RS Lyric will probably be the best of both worlds.

Later.
Evo, nice!

I totally agree that the locked down ETA travel is pretty useless, matter of fact I consider it to be a rigid fork. I'll take that trade though for how far it locks down. For most of my climbs, that counts the most.

For less steep, technical climbing, I won't use the ETA, and in that case the U-turn would be far better.

It will be interesting to try out the Lyrik and Totem.
 

· Deadhead
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367 Posts
I'm about 200lb with gear and ran mine at around 35 psi in the positive air spring(right leg). The TAS is on the bottom of the left leg and each click is about .5mm, so roughly 40 clicks to make a 20mm change in travel. This means you can run the fork at any travel between 130-150mm. Also, you should make the TAS adjustments with no air in the fork per Marzocchi's instructions. The ETA is a nice feature if you have long fireroad type climbs, but if you have anything technical to go up leave the fork extended and use the travel to your advantage.
 
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