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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just received the trailtech hid and it is Awesome. Light draws 13watts, has a softstart, pulse width mod, the battery is a 14.4V 4000mahr so runs for just over 4 hrs. Initial current draw is less than 0.87A though that increases as the batt voltage drops.
The light is excellent ! Build quality is very good.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1332

The battery can be a bit iffy due to the IC / PCB compatibility with the soft start on the trail tech - but there is an easy fix for it: I talked to tech support at batteryspace and they are aware of the problem since there have been a few battery complaints but they did not have a fix but were offering to return for refund..

I've just finished wiring up a bunch of 18650 li-ion batteries nicked from a notebook powerpack using the PCB from battery space. ( which is the same that you get on the 14.4V battery packs sold).

If the HID will not fireup with the PCB in place but will fireup when connected directly to the battery - then you need the "smooth" the current draw from the PCB with a small capacitor. just solder a capacitor of 16V and around 1000microF across the PCB power output (follow the polarity of the PCB and the capacitor) and that solves the problem .
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Photos, weights, etc..

A quick update on the light.

I finished tweaking the home made Li-ion battery.
The HID softstart and Battery PCB incompatibiltiy problem is solved - with the use of a 250micro F, 16v capacitor across the PCB output (50mF is too small).

I've yet to receive the batteryspace Li-ion battery so I do not know if their system has the same problem, its an easy fix so I am not too worried. If anyone is planning the same system and runs into the same problem - I take a photo of the PCB and the fix so it is easy to copy.

I chucked it on the scales for you weight weenies :
~2 hr battery 2000 mahr 223g, the 4hr batt should be around 400g
hid and cables 268g

here is a photo:

I am planning to take a outdoor photo with the same setting as the photo shootoff i.e iso800, 1.6s, F5.0 though on a s30 (provided it is dark enough outside and I can find 35 yards....) It may not be a perfect comparison but it should give you a feel for the light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Here is a beam pattern shot.

For what it's worth :

to the tree and fork is 19 yards, about 23 yards to the corner.
lights on / off shots. F5, 1.6s, iso800, powershot s30 , zoom is out.

oh . and dont ask me why the sky background is a different color, nothing was changed with the camera settings..
 

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I bought the TrailTech HID, too.
http://www.trailtech.net/helmet_mounted_light_kits_1.htm
I ponyed up for their 4.4amp battery and charger and it all works very well. The parts are the same as the Topeak Moonshine HID.

Bought the spot for the helmet and a flood for the bars. Set up the bar light on a Niterider QR mount. The spot punches the light much farther down the trail.
 

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heatstroke said:
For what it's worth :

to the tree and fork is 19 yards, about 23 yards to the corner.
lights on / off shots. F5, 1.6s, iso800, powershot s30 , zoom is out.

oh . and dont ask me why the sky background is a different color, nothing was changed with the camera settings..
Is that the spot or the flood?? Any idea on cold or wet weather performance and durability?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That is the SPOT

To be honest with you I did not realize there was the option for SPOT or FLOOD. Just checked the invoice and it is for a 6deg spot.

personally I think this is plenty wide for a helmet light since there is so much "scatter", I think the photo gives a reasonable idea of the highly illuminated/visible area - easily 10ft either side of the tree.

I've no idea on cold or wet weather durability.
However visual inspection of the light housing shows it is pretty well sealed, and it should hold up well in the wet. The soft start switch does not seem to be as well sealed, I would not recommend getting that wet - strange considering the battery-softstart plug is very well sealed. Batteries - I cant comment since mine is a DIY job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did consider out trailtechs batteries

luckily someone on endurance racing forum spotted the set available on batteryspace..

At trailtech it's $189 for the 4400mahr +$49 for the smart charger compared to the $63 for the batteryspace 4000mahr+charger.. I could not justify it the additional costs. Though the batteryspace batteries may not be completly trouble free... as you noticed with my fix on their PCB..

Shiggy, does your trail tech get very hot - almost too hot to touch ? I've run it for 30 min and was surprised how much heat this thing is churning out. I've no other 13watt light to compare it with...

shiggy said:
I bought the TrailTech HID, too.
http://www.trailtech.net/helmet_mounted_light_kits_1.htm
I ponyed up for their 4.4amp battery and charger and it all works very well. The parts are the same as the Topeak Moonshine HID.

Bought the spot for the helmet and a flood for the bars. Set up the bar light on a Niterider QR mount. The spot punches the light much farther down the trail.
 

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heatstroke said:
luckily someone on endurance racing forum spotted the set available on batteryspace..

At trailtech it's $189 for the 4400mahr +$49 for the smart charger compared to the $63 for the batteryspace 4000mahr+charger.. I could not justify it the additional costs. Though the batteryspace batteries may not be completly trouble free... as you noticed with my fix on their PCB..

Shiggy, does your trail tech get very hot - almost too hot to touch ? I've run it for 30 min and was surprised how much heat this thing is churning out. I've no other 13watt light to compare it with...
The TrailTech is $189 for the 4.4 battery AND charger. I bought a second battery for $139. The cases are great. The connectors solid. I have fiddled with too many DIY batteries/connections to make it worth it for me.

Mine gets warm but not overly so.
 

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The spot is standard for the helmet lights. Flood is an option if you ask for it. They show the spot and flood options for the bar/frame mounted ATV lamps.

The spot has a VERY distinct hot spot with the soft edges, The flood has about the same total spread but is more even. It does not cast the light as far either.
 

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Any problems converting the motorcyle helmet mount to be able to use on a bicycle helmet? It looks like it is meant to mount semi-permanently which wouldn't be ideal for a bicycle helmet
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No,

it is a very heavy duty velcro strap (dual lock). You receive 4 strips 1"x2" of the stuff for your helmets. A single dual lock strip would have to remain on your helmet though the light can come off repeatedly- if that what you mean by semi permanent ?

MetricEee said:
Any problems converting the motorcyle helmet mount to be able to use on a bicycle helmet? It looks like it is meant to mount semi-permanently which wouldn't be ideal for a bicycle helmet
 

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Hey Heatstroke or Shiggy

Now that you have the single lamp do you have any desire or thoughts about getting the duel lamp model? Why not be twice as bright? Do you know if one can be turned off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have no desire for a second light. This is plenty bright enough, any more and I'b be pi$$ing off my 10 watt halogen friends.
If you look at the dual, it uses the single same softsstart and the cable only splits after the softstatt switch not at the switch - hence I dont think you can only run one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Battery Update

Received the Batteryspace Li-ion 14.4v 2000 and 4000mahr batteries today.

The 4000 worked fine 20% of the time with the trailtech - it obviously has a diff PCB than the 2000mahr... I ended up with a 100mF on the 4000mahr...

The 2000 Mahr did not work until you wire up a 250microF cap across the outputs.

So bottomline... 3 battery packs... all 3 needed capacitors.
I suggest for those soldering deficient buyers, you wire the 250microF capacitor direct to the input of the softstart and not the battery !. That way you only need to solder 2 joint (though it may screw up your trailtech warranty if you send it in with a big capacitor on it )

heatstroke said:
I just received the trailtech hid and it is Awesome. Light draws 13watts, has a softstart, pulse width mod, the battery is a 14.4V 4000mahr so runs for just over 4 hrs. Initial current draw is less than 0.87A though that increases as the batt voltage drops.
The light is excellent ! Build quality is very good.

http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1332

The battery can be a bit iffy due to the IC / PCB compatibility with the soft start on the trail tech - but there is an easy fix for it: I talked to tech support at batteryspace and they are aware of the problem since there have been a few battery complaints but they did not have a fix but were offering to return for refund..

I've just finished wiring up a bunch of 18650 li-ion batteries nicked from a notebook powerpack using the PCB from battery space. ( which is the same that you get on the 14.4V battery packs sold).

If the HID will not fireup with the PCB in place but will fireup when connected directly to the battery - then you need the "smooth" the current draw from the PCB with a small capacitor. just solder a capacitor of 16V and around 1000microF across the PCB power output (follow the polarity of the PCB and the capacitor) and that solves the problem .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wiring up the capactior :

Had a pm on wiring up the capacitor here and at other boards. So here is a simple pic of what you need to do.
E&E folks please excuse the non tech circuit diagram, this is aimed at folks with no E knowledge.
Its dead simple so go for it, the capacitor is only $2 at radioshack you need at least 16V, I suggest 20V to cover the recharge of the battery, 250mF is sufficient.

you can probably get away with using crimps, junction boxes if you do not want to pickup the soldering iron.
It will save you a $100 over the trailtech batt, though be warned that trailtech warranty will not cover other batteries apart from the 12V lead acid batt or their own Li-ion.
 

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Bought the spot for the helmet and a flood for the bars. Set up the bar light on a Niterider QR mount
Did you just velcro the light to the QR mount? I would like to find another helmet mount that would use the same idea rather than sticking it directly to velcro on the helmet. Maybe the QR and helmet mounts from Turbocat would do the trick. http://www.turbocatusa.com/S32.html
 

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heatstroke said:
Received the Batteryspace Li-ion 14.4v 2000 and 4000mahr batteries today.

The 4000 worked fine 20% of the time with the trailtech - it obviously has a diff PCB than the 2000mahr... I ended up with a 100mF on the 4000mahr...
I purchased a 4000mah battery from here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=22689&item=7134145728&rd=1

It seems to work fine without any capacitor business. I have only messed around w/ it in the basement/yard, though...

The Trailtech light is way way bright. I'm not sure how useful/necessary my handlebar light will be anymore.

baker
 

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On the Trailtech lights how accessible is the on/off switch when used on the bars or helmet? In most of the endurance races I've done you have to turn off your lights when entering the scoring area. I don't want to fumble for the switch while on the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
The cable is pretty long from the HID to the switch ~ 3ft unextended coil to maybe 5ft stretched. You can easily shorten the battery jumper so the switch is 1.5ft from the battery. Doing that it would sit just outside your camelback, I would then just ziptie/duct tape the switch to the camel shoulder strap so you know where to find it - no more fumbling. There would be a bit of excess cable flopping around - i'd shorten it, though I do not mind tweaking...

As a bar light the switch position is less ideal since it is close to the batt and there is a long cable flopping around. If this was your preferred setup, I would cut the cable 8" up of the switch , and rewire the switch section to the light. You will need a couple of crimp connectors or soldering to hookup to the ballast. The supplied battery cable is long enought to go to the bottle cage.
 
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