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Show me your 2-speeds! What ratios? Which cranks? Does ENO have anything to do with it?
2-speeds!
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MC Indie Roack
Here's my Matt Chester Indie Rock. Schlumpf 2 spd internal bb planetary gear system. 1.65 multiplier. Thus my 34t turns into a 55t. Currently running a 23t eno which is about right for the riding I do. Just finished the build, thus i'm still getting the bugs out. So far, a very fun bike.
Here's my Matt Chester Indie Rock. Schlumpf 2 spd internal bb planetary gear system. 1.65 multiplier. Thus my 34t turns into a 55t. Currently running a 23t eno which is about right for the riding I do. Just finished the build, thus i'm still getting the bugs out. So far, a very fun bike.
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I don't have pics but i have been running the ENO DOS for over a month.
they just can do no wrong...
they just can do no wrong...
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cool, that really gives you 2 bikes in one. you've got the 55t for road duty and the 34t for trail. i forgot all about the schlumpf. wish they did 180mm cranks!Gambler said:
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yeah, i'm glad they went with a 3 tooth spread instead of 2. better to have a to-the-trail gear and a trail gear. but where do you find 31t chainrings for 31-34 or a 35t for 32-35?? W/ a 29 inch wheel running the 16-19 in the back makes the front kind of tricky.nogearshere said:
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What you have to realize is that schlumpf cranks are just standard square tapers - except for no spider on the right crank. A little work with hacksaw&file - voila! I run a speedrive on my roadbike - didn't like the looks of the stock cranks, so I found a removable spider crank in black and all is well. Now the only sad thing about schlumpf is that you can't use them fixedpseudo intellectual said:
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Hi Jeff
The 5 mile spin-like-an-idiot up the path to the trails has lost its charm...
Hey, do you have that new bike yet?
-T
Those are good ratios, prolly what I'd want to use too. Guess I could go the flip-flop route. Old skool!jeff said:
The 5 mile spin-like-an-idiot up the path to the trails has lost its charm...
Hey, do you have that new bike yet?
-T
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Spinnnnnn
I hear ya on the SS spin like an idiot routine.It works out well with rim brakes also.No adjustments needed.
No frame yet.Should be here in a month or so.No rush on this end with ski season in full swing.It will be a slow winter build.Have you decided on a new frame?I would be more than happy to lend you the Chester for a while, although I don`t know if you could deal with narrow 26" bars and 175 cranks.Fare warning though,one ride on it and you`ll want to hang up the Chunky Monkey for good.
Jeff
I hear ya on the SS spin like an idiot routine.It works out well with rim brakes also.No adjustments needed.
No frame yet.Should be here in a month or so.No rush on this end with ski season in full swing.It will be a slow winter build.Have you decided on a new frame?I would be more than happy to lend you the Chester for a while, although I don`t know if you could deal with narrow 26" bars and 175 cranks.Fare warning though,one ride on it and you`ll want to hang up the Chunky Monkey for good.
Jeff
pseudo intellectual said:
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One speed over the limit too!Nat said:
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I don't have a pic right now but my inbred has 44*12 (outside) and 32*20 (inside) - I have the two cogs on the back spaced equally on a regular hub - works great!pseudo intellectual said:
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Yeah, I'm sure the Chester is a step up from my PIG IRON beast of burden. But there's something nice about a bike that only gets better with every new scratch in the paint. If only it had a higher bottom bracket. That's my only complaint. Her very significant body mass index doesn't really bother me. She wears it well. Her sister the cross check went under a car last year and came out a little modified but after some rehab is back in action. So there's something to being overbuilt.jeff said:
I will take out the Chester when I get a little biking fitness back. Thanks for the offer.
Oh, I'm waiting to see how people like the pre-built On-Ones - 28" bars and 180's! Or else Walt is going to get a down payment on a rigid free ride trials SS 29er. Or maybe I'll just keep on riding the green beast. Those pedal strikes have gotten to be a new dimension in my riding - more adrenaline fixes!
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Two 2-speeds (of sorts) here ...
My Vulture is set up with 34t chainring and both 20t and 22t cogs. To switch gears, I have to flip the bike over, loosen the EBB, adjust chain tension and re-tighten. So I rarely do it, and just stay in 34x22 almost all the time. I plan to change this setup, so I have 34t and 36t rings paired with the cogs. Then I'll be able to quickly switch between 34x22 and 36x20 without EBB readjustment.
My Karate Monkey already has a two-ring/two-cog setup like I'm planning for the Vulture, with a twist: it's hooked up to a SRAM DualDrive Disc 3-speed hub. Yes, that makes more than two speeds, but uses some of the same principles we're talking about here. This is a more complex setup than some people would like, but I have major hills and don't like maintaining derailer-based drivetrains. Works for me, your mileage may vary.
How it works: I've got 3 shift-on-the-fly speeds (0.73 reduction, 1.00 direct or 1.36 overdrive) at all times. The two-ring and two-cog setup lets me select two different "ranges," switching between 37x23 and 40x20 in about a minute. As long as I only loosen the right axle bolt I don't need to readjust the brakes when I do it. I use the "high range" (41/56/76 gear inches) for commuting, and the "low range" (33/45/61 gear inches) for riding in Forest Park where the hills can be very steep. Love it.
- Dan
My Vulture is set up with 34t chainring and both 20t and 22t cogs. To switch gears, I have to flip the bike over, loosen the EBB, adjust chain tension and re-tighten. So I rarely do it, and just stay in 34x22 almost all the time. I plan to change this setup, so I have 34t and 36t rings paired with the cogs. Then I'll be able to quickly switch between 34x22 and 36x20 without EBB readjustment.
My Karate Monkey already has a two-ring/two-cog setup like I'm planning for the Vulture, with a twist: it's hooked up to a SRAM DualDrive Disc 3-speed hub. Yes, that makes more than two speeds, but uses some of the same principles we're talking about here. This is a more complex setup than some people would like, but I have major hills and don't like maintaining derailer-based drivetrains. Works for me, your mileage may vary.
How it works: I've got 3 shift-on-the-fly speeds (0.73 reduction, 1.00 direct or 1.36 overdrive) at all times. The two-ring and two-cog setup lets me select two different "ranges," switching between 37x23 and 40x20 in about a minute. As long as I only loosen the right axle bolt I don't need to readjust the brakes when I do it. I use the "high range" (41/56/76 gear inches) for commuting, and the "low range" (33/45/61 gear inches) for riding in Forest Park where the hills can be very steep. Love it.
- Dan
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