Cloxxki, I ran my 2-speed as a trail bike, 34:26, so I had a 2.16:1 high gear and a 1.3:1 low. Because you have 2 gears, you should 'bracket' what you are using now, since the SS gear is a comprimise between spinning out on flats and stalling on hills. Most smooth trails could be run with the higher gear, and when the slope got too steep (or long) then I'd drop into the lower gears. The low gear was good for the rock gardens too. I thought a 1.65:1 step in gears was pretty good for trails, but I would have prefered the high gear to be direct drive, as there is a small but noticable loss though the gear train. IMHO - my uninstrumented experience, my Rohloff hub gears "feels" more efficient than the speeddrive.
45°-milling cutter: not a big issue in reality, standard BB's can still be used after you have chamfered the BB shell, and most BB shells on aluminium bikes have a small chamfer already. The chamfer just needs to be big enough for the torque transfer ring to bite into.
Cranks: takes standard square taper cranks, but you need to find a spiderless driveside. However, you can use 2 left cranckarms, and swap the axle in the right pedal. However, the BB is designed for non-low-profile crankarms, which are not the easiest to get. Low-profile arms will work, but the pedal stance gets pretty wide. I found some old 175mm RaceFace Tubines (pre-LP versions) with a removable spider in an lbs junk bin that worked fine.
3-speed hubs: I've tried several 3-speed hubs (Shimano/Sachs/SRAM), most didnot hold up to mtb'ing. I currently still have a SRAM Dual-Drive 3-speed disc hub that is working, but Bob (RedHaze) broke his last year, and I'm expecting to do the same eventually. The Speed Drive appears to be mtb-able. The Rohloff is the only one that is really designed for mtb-ing.
Dotek (Taiwanese) was advertising a 2-speed crank, and I was trying to get one in to try out (much cheeper than Schumpf) but it never made it into this country (Canada). Probably a good thing, I would have broken those too...
Cheers,
Tom