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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,

I'm in the process of planning out my custom wheel set.

The use will be one day rides of White Rim, Kokopelli, etc. Basically, it will be long rides in isolated places - fully self-supported.

My weight, with the necessary water/food/repair kit/extra clothes, will be approximately 175 lbs.

I'm considering the following build - although I'm absolutely open to suggestions:

DT 240 EXP SP 15x110mm (Boost) 6-Bolt - FRONT

DT 240 EXP SP 12x148mm (Boost) 6-Bolt XD - REAR

DT Swiss XM 421 29" TL Disc Rim 28-hole - FRONT

DT Swiss XM 421 29" TL Disc Rim 28-hole - REAR

DT Swiss SP Competition 2.0/1.8mm (14/15 ga) - FRONT + REAR

I haven't decided on the tires but it will be in the 2.3 to 2.4 range, tubeless of course.

Bike will be a steel hardtail. Brakes will be Avid BB7s with 180mm front and back (again for relatively easy field repairs). 12 speed drive train.

I chose the straight pull so I can change any broken spokes.

The 240s have never let me down. The rims, however, I don't have any experience with.

Also the lacing pattern is something I'm having trouble deciding. Should I go with 28/3-cross or 32/2-cross?

So if anyone out there has extensive experience doing 100 or more self-supported miles in a day, I'd appreciate your feedback. Even if centuries are not your thing, if you know wheels, any and all useful advice is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I would do 32h regardless.

No one can tell the difference in weight give or take 4 spokes.

But those 4 spokes make a meaningful difference when it comes to being able to ride out if one or more break.

I'd also absolutely do j-bend, 100x out of 100.
I trust j-bend but it's replacing the spoke on the trail I'm thinking about. For example, if a spoke breaks on the rear drive side, I'd have to remove the cassette, correct? Or is there some McGyver trick I'm not aware of?

The knock I've read on straight pulls is the spoke can spin where it mates to the hub.
 

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I trust j-bend but it's replacing the spoke on the trail I'm thinking about. For example, if a spoke breaks on the rear drive side, I'd have to remove the cassette, correct? Or is there some McGyver trick I'm not aware of?

The knock I've read on straight pulls is the spoke can spin where it mates to the hub.
Are you telling me you’re packing spare spokes with you on each and every ride? I have yet to break a spoke, but I don’t ride that aggressive.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you telling me you’re packing spare spokes with you on each and every ride? I have yet to break a spoke, but I don’t ride that aggressive.


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My first post mentioned the wheels are being built up for self-supported solo ventures of 100+ miles far far away from support.

So, yeah, on those rides, I do carry spare spokes.
 

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I'd also absolutely do j-bend, 100x out of 100.
I know next to nothing about building a wheel, but even I balked at the choice of straight spokes given this guy's use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know next to nothing about building a wheel, but even I balked at the choice of straight spokes given this guy's use.
Not sure why you "balked" at straight spokes, given the intended use I described in my first post.

Although the device mikesee looks effective, straight pulls are still easier to replace in the field based on my current understanding.
 

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My first post mentioned the wheels are being built up for self-supported solo ventures of 100+ miles far far away from support.

So, yeah, on those rides, I do carry spare spokes.

With well built, new-ish wheels broken spokes are an extreme rarity and generally a fluke ime. Like mikesee said though with DT hubs it's no problem to change a drive side spoke with only a spoke wrench in the unlikely event you ever need to.
 

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Where are you going to get replacement straight-pull spokes? Usually, people go with J-bend because it's the most available at a shop. If you are going to be carrying extra spokes, I guess?
I would do 32h regardless.

No one can tell the difference in weight give or take 4 spokes.

But those 4 spokes make a meaningful difference when it comes to being able to ride out if one or more break.

I'd also absolutely do j-bend, 100x out of 100.
Yep, the insurance factor makes a lot more sense if you are thinking about spoke failures.
 

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Not sure why you "balked" at straight spokes, given the intended use I described in my first post.

Although the device mikesee looks effective, straight pulls are still easier to replace in the field based on my current understanding.
Huh? Device?

The cassette/freehub body just pulls straight out, i.e.,. Tool-less design. It’s one of the key benefits of the DT Swiss star ratchet hub. Unless I’m missing something, you will still have to pull off the tire/tape/sealant and/or tube to replace a spoke.


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Huh? Device?

The cassette/freehub body just pulls straight out, i.e.,. Tool-less design. It’s one of the key benefits of the DT Swiss star ratchet hub. Unless I’m missing something, you will still have to pull off the tire/tape/sealant and/or tube to replace a spoke.


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My understanding is that you do not have to remove wheel, cassette, tire/tape/sealant with straight pulls.

My understanding is that the wheel can be left on the frame and the straight pull can be replaced.

You still have to do your best to true it and but this also applies to j-bends. I believe you still need one extra little tool to hold the spoke in place at the hub with straight pulls but it's small and takes up very little space.
 

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My understanding is that you do not have to remove wheel, cassette, tire/tape/sealant with straight pulls.

My understanding is that the wheel can be left on the frame and the straight pull can be replaced.

You still have to do your best to true it and but this also applies to j-bends. I believe you still need one extra little tool to hold the spoke in place at the hub with straight pulls but it's small and takes up very little space.
I guess it would depend on where/how the spoke breaks. If the nipple is reusable or not. I’m thinking you should try doing this while in good /home condition. Before attempting to do it in the field.


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Seriously no offense intended but I do believe you're overthinking it somewhat. Dozens of people finish the Tour Divide every year on crappy machine built wheels without issue. I think you'll be fine with whatever you decide on but my vote is also for j-bend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Seriously no offense intended but I do believe you're overthinking it somewhat. Dozens of people finish the Tour Divide every year on crappy machine built wheels without issue. I think you'll be fine with whatever you decide on but my vote is also for j-bend.
No offense taken.

However, from the extensive amount of videos I've seen on the race, the Tour Divide is no where nearly as rough on wheels as some of the routes I'm planning on doing.

From what I've seen, there's rain/snow, mud, sleep deprivation, and lots of bad gas station food, but the terrain on TDR doesn't look like spoke breakers.
 
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