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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I've done a brief search that was unsuccessful. I'm looking for recommendations on 1X9 options for 29ers. My thought would be to use a 29-tooth front ring with an 11-34 cassette and a Paul's chain keeper. I ride cross country trails with a fair bit of climbing and descending. I'd like to try it because I'm very rarely using my 42 tooth ring and I'd love to save the weight. Thanks.
 

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Brief search or no search? Go to the Drivetrain forum and there's a thread specifically on 1x9's... I'm personally using a 32-tooth with the stock cassette and the Paul's chain keeper. Coudn't be happier and I've never had any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Great. That's what I was curious to hear about. I was surprised that I couldn't find anything. I tried typing in "1X9" and 1 X 9" and came up empty. I'll head over to the Drivetrain forum and snoop around a little.

Thanks again for your help.

Dan

Brief search or no search? Go to the Drivetrain forum and there's a thread specifically on 1x9's... I'm personally using a 32-tooth with the stock cassette and the Paul's chain keeper. Coudn't be happier and I've never had any issues.
 

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I was going to tell you to check out ,the old skool, N gear jump stop. But there site seems to be down now. (other vendors carry it though) Originally designed for preventing the chain from dumping off the granny gear. I used it without fail on a 1x9 setup.
I had heard that some people can get chain rub with the Paul's chain keeper.
 

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I have 1 (had 2) 1x9s and couldn't be happier getting rid of the front derailleur. A for chain ring size, I'd say it depends on what kind of riding you want to do. I have only used a 32 tooth chain ring on 1x9, but if I lived in an area with steeper/longer hills, didn't race (so I didn't care what speed I had on the flats), or didn't have as much leg strength, I might want a smaller ring. I also have a Paul chain-keeper on one bike, and once it is set up, doesn't rub. I have jump-stop and bash guard on the other bike. Both are effective. the one advantage to the jump-stop and bash guard combo is that it gets stuck less. Occasionally, my chain will wedge between the Paul chain-keeper and the chain ring.

What size chain ring do you have now? That would be the one to start with. If it isn't the right size, go from there after you try it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the information on N-Gear. I come from a cyclo-cross background and have used several different 1 X 9 and 1 X 10 combinations for those purposes. The Jump Stop coupled with a BBG bash guard/chain keeper seems to be the most cost-efficient and reliable combination. I like the Paul's chain watcher for 'cross, but can understand with a significantly larger cog in the rear for cross country use, the chance of chain rub increases.

I've got a 29 tooth ring and a 32 tooth ring. I think I'll try a 30 or a 32 to start. Most of our trails here include a fair bit of climbing or quite a bit of climbing with shallower grades that include technical sections where having a lower gear ratio would prove more beneficial. I don't have the legs or skills for a 33 or larger in the front.

I did find the large, old 1X9 thread in the Drivetrain section. It is really helpful, and it looks like it has been circulating for five years. Lots of good photos and information, for sure.

Thanks again for the help.

Dan
 

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I was going to tell you to check out ,the old skool, N gear jump stop. But there site seems to be down now. (other vendors carry it though) Originally designed for preventing the chain from dumping off the granny gear. I used it without fail on a 1x9 setup.
I had heard that some people can get chain rub with the Paul's chain keeper.
I have used the N-gear on a number of bikes and currently have one on my 1x9 because I already had it in my parts bin. The problem with the N-Gear is that if you do not run a bash guard (and I never do), then you are enevitably going to drop the chain off to the outside when shifting down to a smaller cog through rough terrain. I have also used the Pauls chainkeeper on several different bikes and it is the deal (other than having to shell out $50). You do have to set it up exactly right to avoid getting rub, but once set I have never lost a chain with that guide. Thats my next purchase (again).

Btw. 32x 11-34 is a great place to start.
 

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Last Year I ran my one 29er 1x9 with a 34t ring and 11-32 cassette and it was great for the XC riding I do but I wish I had a 11-34 cassette so I could have a lower Granny for climbing.
 

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I ran a 32t stylo 1.1 with mrp bb mounted guide and an 11-34 cassette and it was perfect on my Niner EMD.
I currently run 1x10 on my Camber with 34t front and 11-34 rear and like it as well but will be going to a 32t again.
 

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Hi, I've done a brief search that was unsuccessful. I'm looking for recommendations on 1X9 options for 29ers. My thought would be to use a 29-tooth front ring with an 11-34 cassette and a Paul's chain keeper. I ride cross country trails with a fair bit of climbing and descending. I'd like to try it because I'm very rarely using my 42 tooth ring and I'd love to save the weight. Thanks.
I use a 29T ring, with a BBG bash guard and no chain keeping instrument. I use an X-9 short cage der. with a shortened chain. Been running it since May and have only one chain drop. Pretty happy with the set-up.
 

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32 front, 11-34 has been a perfect set up for me. Use the MRP guide, and it has worked flawlessly.

Tonight I rode pavement for about the first time this year, and was curious if I would miss the big chainring. Nope.

I suppose if I was a road biker, I'd like a big chainring. It seems really odd that it has become such a standard feature for a mountain bike.

Now the low gear is where I understand some discussion. I'm happy with my lowest gear, but I like to push the peddles hard and stand up if I need to really climb steep. I can see how others would miss having a few lower gears to use, especially if you like a high cadence or hate to stand.

The best way to know for sure is to ride some of your favorite rides with just your middle ring, and see if you need to tweak it up or down a little when you go 1x9.
 

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I ran a 32t stylo 1.1 with mrp bb mounted guide and an 11-34 cassette and it was perfect on my Niner EMD.
I currently run 1x10 on my Camber with 34t front and 11-34 rear and like it as well but will be going to a 32t again.
I did something similar: Stylo 1.1 OCT 32t (chose 175mm or 180mm and has a bash guard), X9 shifter, 11-34 X9 cassette, x9 derailleur, N gear jump stop for preventing chain drops to inside. Lots of bang for the buck.
 

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I'm considering running a 1x9 on my new 29er, but have only up until now experienced gearing on a 26" bike. I know what I would need on a 26" but would I likely need 1 or 2T lower than that on the 29er bike?
 

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Best advice I can say is keep track with what gear(s) are comfortable to you now. Then take that number to Sheldon Brown Gear Calculator and start finding the similar gear ratios that you need. My suggestion to you is 32T w/ 11-36 unless you get a custom 30T or 31T made. You don't want to utilize the inside ring position 100% of the time or your chainline will be horrible in the higher gears. Its better to do it right and use the middle ring position.

 

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I run 1x9 with a 28 front and a 11-34 rear. It gives me a perfect spread. I only spin out on the road on the way to trail and usually climb everthing in 28/26 giving me two bail out gears if they are needed. It all depends on your strength and the terrain you ride. Give the 29 front a try, you'll probably like it.
 

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I use a 30T chainring and 11-34 cassette. This puts me in the middle of the cassette range for most of my trail riding. Spinning out has never been an issue.

I'm using a Paul Chain Keeper. It works great and no rubbing. There was just one time that the chain briefly got jammed in it and it rubbed a little bit until I readjusted it.
 

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I run 1x9 with a 28 front and a 11-34 rear. It gives me a perfect spread. I only spin out on the road on the way to trail and usually climb everthing in 28/26 giving me two bail out gears if they are needed. It all depends on your strength and the terrain you ride. Give the 29 front a try, you'll probably like it.
I'm another old guy on a 1x9 except mine is 650b. I ran 32T before I converted it from 26 Bought a 31T from homegrown and I'm roughly about the same as where I used to be On a 29'er I would definitely want a 29 or 30T but I wouldn't be able to use my Stylo 1.1 crank.

P.S. Sweeney, why would anybody listen to two old hippies about gearing? :D
 
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