[sasquatch rides a SS]

I've always wanted to do a 1x9 project, wish I could make a nice one with fancy components and all but unfortunately this is going to have to be a budget project for now. I will obviously upgrade as time goes on, especially if I like the bike. I really want to start off with a Dawes Bullseye (always heard great things about them) and then take off the SS parts (it is multi-speed capable) and throw on the 1x9 parts. So basically I just have a few questions. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all I need is a 9 speed cassette, 9 speed shifter, 9 speed rear derailleur, 9 speed chain, something to keep the chain from jumping off the front chainring, and a shift cable correct? I want to get Deore LX or better components and I really like the MRP 1.x chainguide and probably a Sram chain. This should all work shouldn't it? And my main concern is should I get a long, medium, or short cage rear derailleur? I realize the obvious difference between the three but don't know when to use each. If I'm never running multiple speeds up front and have a mountain cassette should I have a medium or long cage derailleur? Also since it's a 29'er should I have a "29'er specific" cassette? I ride singlespeed only now so I don't think a "26'er specific" cassette will harm me. Just giving this gears thing a shot. If I don't like it I not only own my first 29" bike, but my first singlespeed 29" bike :thumbsup:

Any advise would be greatly appreciated

Here are some pics of the bike and components I'm hoping to use:
Bike

Chainguide (any other suggestions?)

Components (LX or better)

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

Last picture was just the chain, not sure why it didn't show. And I forgot to mention that I've got all the tools and mechanic know how to install and tune the bike properly, just mainly asking about what length cage to use and any suggestions on other parts to use. Thanks again.

 

[slyfink]

I can't tell from the picture, but I don't think the OE hub can accept a cassette. So you will need a new hub too.

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

I can't tell from the picture, but I don't think the OE hub can accept a cassette. So you will need a new hub too.

It will accept an 8-9 speed cassette. It comes with a SS cog and spacers, so that won't be an issue.

 

[Glide the Clyde]

The parts list you have will work.

A short cage would work if you stay with 1 X 9 and a 34 tooth large cog. The medium cage would be a better choice if think you may go 2 X 9 sometime. Long cage for 3X. The medium and long cage will work with the 1X, just more weight and chain and chain slap.

I use the Paul's chain keeper. Effective and priced around $45.

There really is no 29er specific 9 sp cassette. There is an 11-36 in Deore level but if you are a capable ss rider, an XT or PG990 level 34 tooth would work great. The PG970 in 11-34 is half the price of the 990 and XT, works well but does not have the bulk of the cogs on a single spider. May wear grooves into the freehub body which can make removing the cassette some trouble when you want to transition back to ss.

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

Does that Paul part work with different size seat tubes?

 

[Glide the Clyde]

Does that Paul part work with different size seat tubes?

It comes in 3 sizes. I believe the 35mm fits the Dawes frame but measure yours to make sure.

 

[nickav21]

This: Jumpstop. It's really cheap ($7 on Jenson) and when used with a bashguard (can be picked up for next to nothing) works really, really well. Just another option. Also, with the paul's you can't run a bashguard I don't think, correct me if I'm wrong. Not saying that's a positive or a negative, just something to keep in mind.

 

[boomn]

This: Jumpstop. It's really cheap ($7 on Jenson) and when used with a bashguard (can be picked up for next to nothing) works really, really well. Just another option. Also, with the paul's you can't run a bashguard I don't think, correct me if I'm wrong. Not saying that's a positive or a negative, just something to keep in mind.

Those are a nice, cheap way to get started on a 1x9 setup, but in my experience are not a proper long term solution compared to an MRP 1.X, E.13 XCX, Paul, etc. I'm very glad I spent the money on a MRP 1.x and it has worked without any problems (once I got it dialed in).

The problem with the ngear is that the chain can get forced underneath it. If/when the chain bounces or derails to the inside sometimes it lands in the right spot (more likely in lower gears it seems) so that you start pedaling, the part of the chain still on the teeth towards the front of the ring pulls the chain forward and down with enough force to temporarily bend the plate out of the way. Of course I'm a cyclist so my hands aren't nearly as strong as my legs so getting the chain back on usually required pulling out my multi-tool and unbolting the ngear to move it out of the way.

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

Does the mrp 1.x change the chain alignment? Doesn't it go between the frame and bottom bracket?

 

[boomn]

Does the mrp 1.x change the chain alignment? Doesn't it go between the frame and bottom bracket?

The BB mount version is designed to be installed in place of an existing BB spacer so that the spacing does not change. If your BB doesn't already have a spacer behind the drive side BB cup you'll need to get a seattube mounted version of the MRP 1.X, E13 XCX or Paul guide

 

[Glide the Clyde]

I lied in my previous post. The Dawes seat tube takes the Pauls 31.8 guide, not the 35. Sorry.

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

I lied in my previous post. The Dawes seat tube takes.the 31.8 guide, not the 35. Sorry.

You've got a 1x9 Dawes, correct? Any tips or pointers?

 

[nickav21]

Those are a nice, cheap way to get started on a 1x9 setup, but in my experience are not a proper long term solution compared to an MRP 1.X, E.13 XCX, Paul, etc. I'm very glad I spent the money on a MRP 1.x and it has worked without any problems (once I got it dialed in).

The problem with the ngear is that the chain can get forced underneath it. If/when the chain bounces or derails to the inside sometimes it lands in the right spot (more likely in lower gears it seems) so that you start pedaling, the part of the chain still on the teeth towards the front of the ring pulls the chain forward and down with enough force to temporarily bend the plate out of the way. Of course I'm a cyclist so my hands aren't nearly as strong as my legs so getting the chain back on usually required pulling out my multi-tool and unbolting the ngear to move it out of the way.

Very valid point. While Iv'e never had it happen before, I do recognize that it's possible. And yeah, if it derails to the inside with any force you can mar up the frame too. And in all honesty I'm looking at going to the MRP myself. I went the N-gear route at first to make sure 1x9 was for me, but now that Iv'e decided it's the best decision Iv'e ever made it's time to upgrade to a more stable system.

Chain-keepers like Paul's and MRP totally encapsulate the chain so they keep it from derailling from the inside and out. They also prevent derailments caused by the chain moving up and down during super-choppy stuff.

 

[Glide the Clyde]

You've got a 1x9 Dawes, correct? Any tips or pointers?

Yes, I have one. It's 1X9 when commuting during the week and ss on certain weekend rides. Here it is commuter style. The reason it has a long cage rd is that it was one I had already in my parts bin so I put it to use. Works okay other than it's a lot of chain slapping around. Still quieter than a 3X9.

The parts list you have put together should be a solid drivetrain. I recommend going with a 1X9 with the short cage rd and the Pauls Chain Keeper on the stock crank and chainring.

Sounds like you know what you're doing for the build it yourself aspect.

The frame comes with braze ons for the shifter cable but I drilled mine out enough to slip the housing through so I have housing full length from shifter to rd rather than short sections of housing with exposed cable between the braze ons. Easier to change between 1X9 and 1X1, easier to store when it's ss, and I think more reliable shifting when multi-geared.

Other than these and what I've posted already, not much else. I think you're going to like the way a 29" wheeled bike rides, both in ss and multi-geared forms. To me, the Dawes does not feel or perform like an inexpensive bike. Great value.

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

What makes you suggest a short cage over a medium cage rd?

 

[Glide the Clyde]

What makes you suggest a short cage over a medium cage rd?

It is perfect with 1X9 meaning it is very efficient, uses just enough chain length for multi-gears so not as much chain flap/slap, is less likely to be damaged as it doesn't protrude as far from the hanger.

I'd go with medium cage only if I thought I'd switch to a 2X setup later. Otherwise, short cage is just enough to get the job done quite proficiently. Look at the pics in th "1X9s" thread in the Drivetrain forum and see how many 1X9s have a short cage. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=158959&page=23

 

[sasquatch rides a SS]

It is perfect with 1X9 meaning it is very efficient, uses just enough chain length for multi-gears so not as much chain flap/slap, is less likely to be damaged as it doesn't protrude as far from the hanger.

I'd go with medium cage only if I thought I'd switch to a 2X setup later. Otherwise, short cage is just enough to get the job done quite proficiently. Look at the pics in th "1X9s" thread in the Drivetrain forum and see how many 1X9s have a short cage. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=158959&page=23

And then when cutting the chain to length, just make sure that there is enough chain to go around the largest cog, but not too much that on the smallest cog the arm hits the derailleur (if that makes sense)?

 

[Glide the Clyde]

And then when cutting the chain to length, just make sure that there is enough chain to go around the largest cog, but not too much that on the smallest cog the arm hits the derailleur (if that makes sense)?

Yep. I would cut the chain to length with the drivetrain on the highest gear (smallest rear cog) to get the cage arm at the best position then run it up to the lowest gear (largest cog) to check position there. Should be right.

 

[dwt]

Chain-keepers like Paul's and MRP totally encapsulate the chain so they keep it from derailling from the inside and out. They also prevent derailments caused by the chain moving up and down during super-choppy stuff.

The MRP 1.x is a little more secure, IMO.

This:



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as opposed to this:



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Also, keep in mind that both the Paul and the 1.x are designed for x-c riding: No bash guard, no skid plate, no tensioner. MRP has a full line of keepers/guides/tensioners of various combinations of burliness. My next upgrade will be the MRP Lopes SL for x-c. I really don't need a bash or a skid plate, but I'm sick of chain slap and the Lopes is basically a 1.x with a tensioner.



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