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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still new to the Mountain Bike scene. Just bought my first mountain bike ever this year.

I have definitely realized that I don't need anymore than 9 gears. So I'm trying to plan out a 1x9 setup.

After going through a ton of reviews I've decided on.

-Sram Attack Trigger Shifters
-Avid Speed Dial 7 Levers
-Shimano SLX M-662 GS Rear Derailleur
-Sram PC-991 Cross Step Chain
-Sram PG-970 11-34 Cassette

Now I'm stuck on the crankset. I was thinking just to try it out I would take the inner and outer ring off my isoflow and run a superlight bash guard and n-turn or the widget and then swap which ever chain retention device over to a nicer crank in the future. But is there anything out there that's ready to go without modification? I thought a single speed crank that's 9-speed chain compatible would be easier, but wouldn't the ring be in ill-relation to the rear cassette?

Anyhow, any advice or criticism is very much welcome. I know this is slightly low budget, but I'd like to keep the cost under 1000 before a new wheelset.
 

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LA CHÈVRE
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A singlespeed chainring will actually be better than the middle ring of a triple. Not unecessary shift pins and ramps, the teeth are not shaped so the chain can move sideways so usually hold the chain better.... but it will still work with a 9 speed chain and cassette.
 

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Dan is right, although using the middle ring from a 3-ring crankset also give good results (I've been using this setup for 2 years now). Do you already have a crankset that you'd like to use or do you want to buy one ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The isoflow under my 150 lbs has actually proven to be a decent, stiff, and so far reliable crankset so far. So I think I'd like to start there.

I understand that the chainring I have is ramped and meant for shifting. I failed to mention that if I went with the superlight/n-turn means of retention the middle ring would also be replaced with a single speed chain ring. If I went with the widget, well no need.

The concern I have with the SS cranks is the relation between the position of the chain ring and the cassette. It seems the rear derailleur would struggle to move the chain to the small gear. because the SS crank was meant to be used with a single gear close to the hub.
 

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LA CHÈVRE
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Cranksets rarely position the chainrings too far toward the center of the bike for the cassette, often the other way around though. I think the chainring will hit the chainstay of the frame before it is too far in to cause any shifting issue.

Another option (which I'll use for 2010) is a MRP 1.X chainguide (or a E*13 XCX, a copy of the MRP 1.X).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the advice guys. Much appreciated.

Think I'm gonna put the widget on the Isoflow and upgrade to a Stylo when funds allow.
 
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