1x10 questions

I think you got it. Chain, cassette and derailleur can be used as is.

Alternative solutions would be:

- Tensioner/keeper combo (e.g. MRP Lopes SL)
- Chain tensioner and bashguard (e.g. e13 SS+ or MRP G2).
- Just a chain keeper and only buy a tensioner if you need one.

If you don't use a bashguard you'll need shorter chainring bolts. If you don't use a tensioner you can shorten your chain.

i dont have a bashguard and my chainring bolts work fine they dont get in the way at all, not saying it will be the same for you....i do suggest shortening the chain even with a tensioner and chain guide i had problems with mine before i shortened it

There's different setups you can do. My suggestion would be:

-N-Gear Jump Stop (cheap and works well)
-Any bashguard (Race Face, BBG, etc)

Other than that, you just remove your front shifter/derailleur/22t ring/44t ring, install the above parts, shorten chain as necessary and you should be good to go. You don't need a chain tensioner because you have a rear derailleur to tension the chain. You can also use a chain guide setup, like something from MRP, but that will be heavier and more expensive. If you want to go a little crazier, you could get a non-ramped chain ring as well. Another line of defense to keep your chain from dropping.

Lots of different options, but what I mentioned above will be the cheapest/easiest. You can get out of this whole thing for <$40.

So im good to go if all i add are:
Race face single 34t chainring
Paul chain keeper
Single ring bolts

I may or may not need to remove a few links?


I want a 100% reliable setup, i do not want to constantly be adjusting this setup, or dealing with dropped chains.

Grip said:

So im good to go if all i add are:
Race face single 34t chainring
Paul chain keeper
Single ring bolts

I may or may not need to remove a few links?

I want a 100% reliable setup, i do not want to constantly be adjusting this setup, or dealing with dropped chains.

Click to expand...

Yes, that will work fine. Just use this:
http://www.paulcomp.com/ckclamp.html

Plus a non-ramped chain ring and the shorter bolts, or keep the same bolts and add a bash guard. You don't HAVE to remove chain links, but removing some will give you a little more chain tension. Do you know how to measure proper chain length? Put the chain around your biggest chain ring (or only chain ring, as the case may be) and largest cog (34t) and it should be 1 link longer than that (1 link = 2 "pieces" of chain). One more note, you don't need it, but you could also go with a short cage derailleur for quicker shifts. You won't need it to take up as much chain anymore.

Thanks.