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I've got a 1998 Gary Fisher Joshua X0 that I haven't ridden in about 3 years. I'm looking to get back into the sport. Compared to what's out there today, is this an outdated bike?

My other question is: The stock rear suspension is VERY VERY saggy now, even when fully "locked out." Does anyone have a recommendation for a new shock for the back? I'm more of a flat trail rider, so it doesn't need to be cushy at all. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have even purchased a bike with a rear suspension.

Thanks for reading!
 

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noMAD man
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Did lots of experiments with that design.

thw420 said:
I've got a 1998 Gary Fisher Joshua X0 that I haven't ridden in about 3 years. I'm looking to get back into the sport. Compared to what's out there today, is this an outdated bike?

My other question is: The stock rear suspension is VERY VERY saggy now, even when fully "locked out." Does anyone have a recommendation for a new shock for the back? I'm more of a flat trail rider, so it doesn't need to be cushy at all. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have even purchased a bike with a rear suspension.

Thanks for reading!
The Trek Y models are identical designs even though they didn't come out of the same cookie cutter. I did lots of shock, rear swingarm, and fork experiments on 3 different Ys from '95-'98 models. The biggest shortcoming on the Y/Joshua series is that it is a URT--BB and swingarm are directly connected. For many proven and factual reasons this is a negative for a rear suspension, but not the kiss of death for having a decent ride. Those frames love an air shock. They have a slight falling rate and the air shock makes a perfect match for that. I must have stuck 4 or 5 different shocks in these frames. The best results were obtained with a Cane Creek AD10. Nowdays you'd go with an AD12 or Cloud 9 for the same results. The Cane Creeks are decently priced too. They are very tuneable. If you have a 5" fork for the front, go with a 6.75" long X 1.75" stroke Cane Creek shock. This makes a very decent ride. Otherwise for forks 4" or less, stay with the 6.5" X 1.5" models. One very strong element of these frames is their durability. One of my old Y carbon frames and one of our shop Y5 frames are still alive and being pounded relentlessly with the original pivot still in place. There are simple and tough. What fork is on your model? If it's OEM, isn't it an RS Judy?
 
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