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Discussion Starter #1
I apologize in advance for any novice or newbie questions that will come from this thread. I was able to get my hands on a 1995 M 500. I rode a 1990 M 500 in college and truly grew up on that bike! The 1995 will keep me busy for now. It appears as if the headset and stem are not the original one's listed in the 1995 catalog and the head set is very loose. I would like to replace it but keep it as original as possible (suggestions for replacements?). I have not taken it completely apart and just started to clean it up ( and she looks great)! Anything I need to look out for when taking off the stem and head set? Separating the fork from the frame? The grip shifters and brakes look original as well as do the handle bars. The rims do not appear to be the Mavic M400 listed in the catalog either (suggestions for new rims and tires)? This will be my first tear down since...maybe 1990 and I am looking forward to it but do not want to wreck the bike in my excitement! As advice and pointer will be greatly appreciated!!
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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Stem, loosen the 2 bolts at the back, then remove the plug on top by removing the 5 mm allen there. Note, the forks are free to fall out once that cap is removed, so hang on.

Super simple disassembly though, the above will se it done for you.

Rims are original, not sure where the Mavic listing came from, but Cannondale used a metric ton of those rims, and they work just fine.

Happy tinkering!
 

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Thanks for the guidance! I am a bit apprehensive to go at it, since it has been forever. I read the brief description in the 1995 catalog listing that mentioned Mavic Rims. After further reading and many rabbit holes later, I see that they used Sun T 18 rims and the hubs are Shimano Acera (original). One more question about the seat post. When I took the clamp off, some of the paint came off. I saw where some have used a similar nail polish to cover. Good idea? or just use a clear coat of some sort to keep it from chipping further? Thanks Again!
 

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Hybrid Leftys aren't real
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Yep, for spot repair I prefer nail polish, either clear, or color match if you have a good eye and luck. It's more rubbery than touchup paint so it tends to stick around better.
 

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If you intend to replace headset, it does require a tool to remove the cups. You could maybe tap it out with careful use of a long screwdriver, but the tool will have it out in a fraction of a second. If it's open ball and cone bearings you could just try cleaning it out and regreasing. If its still smooth then that should be fine.
 

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Stem, loosen the 2 bolts at the back, then remove the plug on top by removing the 5 mm allen there. Note, the forks are free to fall out once that cap is removed, so hang on.
Almost looks like the brake cable hanger is holding the fork in since there's no spacer in between the stem and hanger. Kinda dodgy.

@OP, when you go back together, use a spacer so you can properly adjust the load on the headset bearings by tightening the top cap plug...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you intend to replace headset, it does require a tool to remove the cups. You could maybe tap it out with careful use of a long screwdriver, but the tool will have it out in a fraction of a second. If it's open ball and cone bearings you could just try cleaning it out and regreasing. If its still smooth then that should be fine.
Thanks! I haven't gotten that far yet and was wondering if it had cups. I didn't see a tighten nut and wasn't sure. I have seen a couple of videos of mechanics using the "tool" and would probably go that route. I am thinking it may need a new headset and would like to go through that overhaul for the experience. I looked at a Ritchey similar to the Tioga ( I believe the original) on the bike now. Just trying to match some nice upgrades of the same bike I saw online and stay close to the original set up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Almost looks like the brake cable hanger is holding the fork in since there's no spacer in between the stem and hanger. Kinda dodgy.

@OP, when you go back together, use a spacer so you can properly adjust the load on the headset bearings by tightening the top cap plug...
Yeah, the whole headset move forward a bit (but still steers the bike fine). I really don't have the experience to tell what the issue may be. I'm taking it all down and going through the parts (first time). I will most likely replace the headset, and bearings (not sure if those would be sealed). I have seen some decent upgrades online with the same bike but stayed close to the original; and will try and mirror a couple of the parts components that they used. Any other advice is welcomed!!
 

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I didn't notice the missing spacer.

Yeah, you want the hanger loosened (if it has a pinch bolt) and sufficient spacers so that when fully assembled, there's maybe 5 mm or so of space between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem.

That will allow for the room needed to get proper headset adjustment. Right now, it'd be loose no matter what you did.
 
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