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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am working on building up a road singlespeed / fixed bike. I REALLY want to use a bolt on disc cog for the fixed side, and a SS cassette cog for the free side. If the above does not exist, next best would be 130mm 9 speed disc hub. Ideally it would be light and not too expensive. I know I am asking alot, but if anyone knows, hopefully someone here does!

Wheelsets will also work, but must be rim brake compatible. So far the best I have found is something like the American classic SS disc hub, but it is spaced 135mm.

Thanks,
Mark
 

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Wrench-O-Phile
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Just take some axle spacers (5mm) off the NDS and cut down the axle. Re-dish the wheel and you are good to go.

I realize that many cartridge bearing hubs make this difficult, but if you try and find a Shimano hub you generally have more flexibility.

What's the frame made out off? Is re-spacing the rear to 135mm an option?
 

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my redline monocog came with what you are looking for. you could either contact a redline dealer to buy a hub or a whole wheel. or, you might find someone selling a stock monocog wheelset. either way, it won't be expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Elvota said:
Just take some axle spacers (5mm) off the NDS and cut down the axle. Re-dish the wheel and you are good to go.

I realize that many cartridge bearing hubs make this difficult, but if you try and find a Shimano hub you generally have more flexibility.

What's the frame made out off? Is re-spacing the rear to 135mm an option?
In english please! Just kidding, but I really have no idea what you are talking about, what is NDS? And I don't believe Shimano makes any singlespeed hubs that this would work on.

The frame is an older titanium road frame with horizontal dropouts. I would rather not do any re-spacing, but what about just putting a 135mm hub in a 130mm frame?

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ktm520 said:
my redline monocog came with what you are looking for. you could either contact a redline dealer to buy a hub or a whole wheel. or, you might find someone selling a stock monocog wheelset. either way, it won't be expensive.
I am pretty sure your Monocog came with a MTB standard hub, which is 135mm. Road frames are 130mm. I am also trying to keep this relatively light, which a stock monocog wheel/hub will not be!

Mark
 

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There are a few OE 130 disc hubs around, mostly used on CX bikes, but they are hard to find.

Re-spacing a Shimano cassette disc hub won't work since you'll screw up the disc spacing (there's no room to shorten the cassette side). Maybe not an issue if you are only using it for a fixie disc cog, but you might find the cog too far outboard after respacing. However, you can replace the 9~8 speed freehub body with a shorter BMX version, they use the same spline. Then you can respace the hub on the cassette side, and maintain the proper disc spacing. The only issue is that the BMX freehub body is not as well sealed as a LX/XT version.
 

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wouldn't you be able to swap the non drive end cap on a DT swiss hub to use it as a 130mm instad of a 135mm hub?
 

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bikeny said:
I am working on building up a road singlespeed / fixed bike. I REALLY want to use a bolt on disc cog for the fixed side, and a SS cassette cog for the free side. If the above does not exist, next best would be 130mm 9 speed disc hub. Ideally it would be light and not too expensive. I know I am asking alot, but if anyone knows, hopefully someone here does!

Wheelsets will also work, but must be rim brake compatible. So far the best I have found is something like the American classic SS disc hub, but it is spaced 135mm.

Thanks,
Mark
Phil Wood's catalog says that they make 130mm 9spd cassette disc hubs in 32h (part# CDS533) and 36h (part# CDS633)

and what could be cooler than Phil Wood on a retro Ti frame?
 

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IMHO, the easiest solution is to go with a freewheel/disc hub like a Surly. I think you could shave a few mm off the spacing easily enough, the Surly uses a 10x1 axle so it would be easy to find thinner spacers or remove some.

If you are really sold on cassette, that makes it a lot harder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
itsdoable said:
There are a few OE 130 disc hubs around, mostly used on CX bikes, but they are hard to find.

Re-spacing a Shimano cassette disc hub won't work since you'll screw up the disc spacing (there's no room to shorten the cassette side). Maybe not an issue if you are only using it for a fixie disc cog, but you might find the cog too far outboard after respacing. However, you can replace the 9~8 speed freehub body with a shorter BMX version, they use the same spline. Then you can respace the hub on the cassette side, and maintain the proper disc spacing. The only issue is that the BMX freehub body is not as well sealed as a LX/XT version.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think itsdoable's suggestion sounds like it would be worth a try. I should be able to find a relatively cheap Shimano hub, or maybe even a built wheel. I have never replaced a freehub though, how complicated is it? And where do I get the BMX freehub? I am a pretty competent mechanic, so I'm thinking it's not a huge deal. One possible issue is most(all?) of the newer Shimano disc hubs use the centerlock mounting. Has anyone tried one of the DT swiss centerlock-to-6 bolt adaptors with a disc cog?

Mark
 

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Bontrager makes a 130 spaced disc wheel that came on the 07 Lemond Poprad CX bike and the Trek Portland. Check a Trek dealer or their website for the wheels. I'm not sure if it's rim brake compatible.
 

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vegan cyclocross disco
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bikeny said:
I am working on building up a road singlespeed / fixed bike. I REALLY want to use a bolt on disc cog for the fixed side, and a SS cassette cog for the free side.
I'm confused. Why do you want to use a disc hub for a fixed wheel (tomicog, basically right?) when you can just use a fixed-free flip flop hub? And you also said you want it for a rim braked wheel. So basically you just want a single speed fixed/free wheel in 130 spacing? There's a billion out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
iamandy said:
I'm confused. Why do you want to use a disc hub for a fixed wheel (tomicog, basically right?) when you can just use a fixed-free flip flop hub? And you also said you want it for a rim braked wheel. So basically you just want a single speed fixed/free wheel in 130 spacing? There's a billion out there.
Because I don't want to use a road fixed/free hub! The threaded mounting system used by these hubs seems to me to be extremely outdated. I have heard/read enough horror stories about threaded cogs and freewheels that cannot be removed or stripped threads that I just want to stay away from them. Tomicogs seem like the perfect solution for the fixed side, and for the free side, a cassette cog would be the best solution. Exchanging cogs and adjusting chainline will be MUCH easier with this setup.

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
kdiddy said:
Bontrager makes a 130 spaced disc wheel that came on the 07 Lemond Poprad CX bike and the Trek Portland. Check a Trek dealer or their website for the wheels. I'm not sure if it's rim brake compatible.
I actually almost bought a set of those on Ebay last week. But after some investigation, it turns out they are not rim brake compatible. Bummer!

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
itsdoable said:
There are a few OE 130 disc hubs around, mostly used on CX bikes, but they are hard to find.

Re-spacing a Shimano cassette disc hub won't work since you'll screw up the disc spacing (there's no room to shorten the cassette side). Maybe not an issue if you are only using it for a fixie disc cog, but you might find the cog too far outboard after respacing. However, you can replace the 9~8 speed freehub body with a shorter BMX version, they use the same spline. Then you can respace the hub on the cassette side, and maintain the proper disc spacing. The only issue is that the BMX freehub body is not as well sealed as a LX/XT version.
How about replacing the 8/9 speed freehub body with a 7 speed version? I did some searching and cannot find any BMX freehub bodies, I believe they are not made anymore. But I did find some 7 speed freehub bodies. I believe the 7 speed body is 4.5mm shorter than the 8/9 speed version? That would be almost perfect. What is involved in shortening the axle?

Thanks,
Mark
 

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bikeny said:
How about replacing the 8/9 speed freehub body with a 7 speed version? I did some searching and cannot find any BMX freehub bodies, I believe they are not made anymore. But I did find some 7 speed freehub bodies. I believe the 7 speed body is 4.5mm shorter than the 8/9 speed version? That would be almost perfect. What is involved in shortening the axle?

Thanks,
Mark
It does appear that the original Shimano BMX freehub body is discontinued, and as they were not extensively used in North America, there is little stock. The BMX hubs are probably still available (one of our lbs' has them) since they sold slowly.

The current Shimano BMX freehub is the DXR series, and it uses a XTR-level freehub, since I have not seen it yet, I'm not sure what the dimensions are, but it looks like they are still using the same spline. (http://bike.shimano.com/publish/con.../product.-code-FH-MX70.-type-fh_mountain.html)

Basically, as long as the freehub is shorter (by 5mm hopefully), then it should work. I have not tried using a 7-speed, so I'm not sure if they work. But if it is really 4.5mm shorter, it should be fine. The dust caps on the freehub body-axle interface has changed over the years, so you may have to get creative there. In the past, I have been able to get the cones & dustcaps from the old hubs to use when switching freehubs (almost all shimano rear hubs use the same M10 threaded axles). If you have an old rear 130mm shimano hub, you can steal the dust caps from that.

Use the Shimano website for tech drawings. Basically to change the freehub, you must remove the axle, and stick a 10mm allen into the drive end of the hub and unthread the fixing bolt. Then the freehub slide off the spline. You can replace the axle with one form a 130mm hub (axles with cones & dust caps are available from Shimano, and are cheap), or you can just cut the exsisting one. If it is bolt-on (for track mounts), you can just leave it as is, and it'll stick out an extra 5mm.

One of our buddies is looking for the same thing, but he wants to use it on a CX bike. Unfortunately he wants the full cassette, so the BMX / 7-speed conversion is not possible. He's trying to source one from Norco, as they had OE CX bikes with 130mm spaced disc hubs. If not, then we are going to take an existing 130 cassette hub and install a 1st Principles Disc Conversion Kit, which I picked up recently on clearance (I think they are still available from 1st Principles). I've used them doe disc brakes, but I'm not sure I'd use them for a fixie cog.

Shimano still sell the ISO 6-bolt hubs in 400 & 500 (deore) series, and the XT version is still in stock. I'm not sure if the 6-bolt to centerlock adapters are up to a fixie cog.

"nogearshere" suggestion of squeezing a 135 hub into the frame is not bad, most steel & Ti frames can take that. However, we have had a few drive-side C-S break near the dropout after doing this - usually about 6m to a year after installing the wheel. And the frames were steel! Keep in mind the riders were all big (200lb+) and powerful, and put a lot of miles on the bikes. It's the main reason why I don't like doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Fsa Rd-460

Thanks everyone for their help, especially itsdoable. So I was doing more searching today an came up with a few more options. The first is Velocity, who will basically build you whatever you want from their components, and they could have made a nice road disc 130mm wheelset, but probably not in singlespeed. But I just ended up ordering a set of FSA RD-460 disc wheels. They are disc/rim brake compatible and 130mm rear hub. Not SS, but I can live without that. They weigh about 1800 grams, which isn't too bad either. They retail for about $425, but I ordered them from chainreactioncycles for $299 shipped. I will post up some pic's when the project is complete.

Mark
 

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i was in the situation you described and ended up using a 135mm surly hub and spread the dropouts 2.5mm on each side. i totally agree on your choice of using a bolt on cog over a screw on. your ti frame will flex enough without any side effects. i have now been using this set up for about 4 or 5 months
 
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