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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone been able to get a 12 speed Wipperman Connex Link? They claim to have a 12 speed model in their website but I haven't been able to find it anywhere.

I can easily find the 9, 10 or 11 speed ones though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you ever find these? The only way I can see to get one is buy their 12 spd chain which includes the link.
Nope... I did see some of their 12 spd chains and I assumed they had it. But I don't think I'll buy a new chain just for that link.

It's too bad though, they're so handy.
 

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Where can you buy the chain in the US even? I take my chain off frequently to wax it so definitely would like a reusable link.
 

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Wippermann only has the Connex 12S0, which is steel and not the nickel plated stainless steel.
Hopefully, Wipperman has the 12SX in the plan. Would be good to have that chain.
 

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Where can you buy the chain in the US even? I take my chain off frequently to wax it so definitely would like a reusable link.
How would you rate waxing your chain vs lubing your chain? I am assuming that this on on a MTB that frequently sees dust/dirt and mud/water.
 

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How would you rate waxing your chain vs lubing your chain? I am assuming that this on on a MTB that frequently sees dust/dirt and mud/water.
I've been waxing my chains for a couple of years now, and have no intention of using any other chain treatment again. I've been following the instructions from oz cycle on youtube, and found the results to be outstanding in all ways. My chains are lasting the best they ever have, and they stay pretty darn clean. But most gloriously the shifting is the best ever. After rides, I do typically spray off the chain with the garden hose, flow restricted to a modest pressure. It's a bit of a process to get the chains done initially, with first stripping them with gas, then degreaser, and lastly alcohol to "sterilize" the chain, as oz says. I now have set up all 4 family members bikes with waxed chains, and also with a spare, pre-waxed chain. If you do several chains at once with the process, it's a big time saver in the long haul. And post ride maintenance is as simple as rinsing the chain off.

I didn't always rinse the chain post ride in the first year of waxing the chain, and found that even though the wax/ptfe doesn't get at all dirty like a traditionally lubed chain--trail grime simply doesn't cling to it like it does to wet lubes-- the frequently encountered dry dust of my local CO front range trails does coat the chain, and is best rinsed off. Since rinsing the chain off post ride, I am probably re-waxing about 1/2 as often as when I didn't regularly rinse it post ride.

The shifting action is the best I've ever experienced. That's the first big sell for me. The other is the cleanliness. And I haven't had appreciable chain growth since I began waxing. I did destroy one waxed chain from an impact; but beyond that, the waxing is helping with chain life remarkably well= no chain growth yet noted.

Here are a few links to Oz's vids:
(= most recent that I know of) ;
;
. When it's time to re-wax, I simply pour a pot of boiling water over the chain while it is in sieve, flipping it over once or twice in the process. Then shake it to knock excess water off, then let it hang in the sun for a bit if possible. If no sun, I've also given it a quick slosh in denatured alcohol to help displace the water. When that has evaporated, back into the wax/ptfe solution in the crock pot. I've taken to letting the crock pot cool down to near paraffin re-solidifying temperature, and pulling it out just before the wax is going to thicken. I become partial to having a fair amount of wax coating the sprocket contact surfaces; though I do give the exterior of the chain a quick wipe with a paper towel post removal from the wax bath. When I used to pull the chain out while the wax was pretty hot, too much ran out, and I didn't get as many rides between re-waxing as I do now. Work the links so that they aren't overly stiff before the wax fully cools. Then poke out excess wax from between the link plates; a sheesh kabob bamboo stick us just the right size, and gets most of the excess wax out, so there will be less to brush off your chainring and cassette, which doesn't amount to much anyway.

I get a lot of rides between re-waxing. How many? I'm not sure; maybe a dozen 15-25 mile rides,with only rinsing the chain off post ride. I have pre-waxed spares ready so I don't have to bust out the crock pot as soon as a re-wax is called for--I can do it when it's convenient this way.

Lastly, the plastic containers that the box warehouses sell nuts in have been great for the 3 part pre-initial wax chain cleaning. I've got a nickel that if you give it a go you'll also be a chain waxing fan. Crock pots can be had on the cheap off of craigslist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How would you rate waxing your chain vs lubing your chain? I am assuming that this on on a MTB that frequently sees dust/dirt and mud/water.
You could use Squirt lube. It’s wax infused and it’s somewhere in between lubing and waxing it.

It is still good practice to rinse off your chain after every ride and adding some lube every now and then, depending on how often you’re riding. Otherwise the thin film starts to break down and eventually dissapears exposing the chain like any other lube.
 

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I’m a fan of how clean my drivetrain is with waxing but I find myself having to rewax after every 50ish miles. Not sure if I’m letting the molten speed wax get too hot and taking it out.

I’ve tried squirt to try and prolong it but it attracts the grime and I was forced to do another deep clean of the drive train so I haven’t tried it again.
So far I’ve reused the quick link several times for my shimano chain. Hopefully it keeps holding up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I’m a fan of how clean my drivetrain is with waxing but I find myself having to rewax after every 50ish miles. Not sure if I’m letting the molten speed wax get too hot and taking it out.

I’ve tried squirt to try and prolong it but it attracts the grime and I was forced to do another deep clean of the drive train so I haven’t tried it again.
So far I’ve reused the quick link several times for my shimano chain. Hopefully it keeps holding up.
50 miles is not much. It seems like an inconvenence having to rewax it this often. It’s not that different than doing a regular maintenance on a non-waxed chain/drivetrain.
 

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Yeah I’m not exactly sure why it’s not lasting as long for me. So cal conditions are primarily just dry and dusty. I have three chains that I wax at the same time so it saves me some time. I wax my road bike chains and I usually can get like 400-500 miles on them before I start to feel them being dry.
 

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I wax chains as well. I have a small bottle of Squirt in case my chain starts squeaking. I only carry this on rides longer than 150miles. On road bikes, I rewax at 300miles or so since it’s very easy to do and I have Connex chains and quick links that are meant to be disconnected.
On the MTB, dust will coat the entire bike and I’ve only started riding MTBs. The chain gets coated by the dust as well. By the time I’m washing the bike down, I may as well rewax the chain since the chain is getting wet with water. It is easier to dry the chain in the hot pot of wax, what little left over water will evaporate or sink to the bottom with the crud.
Which model of Connex chain do you use? I’ve used the 11SX for rod use and this is stainless steel. I’m afraid the SO is steel and may rust. The SB may be another option but I haven’t used that before.
 

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I’m a fan of how clean my drivetrain is with waxing but I find myself having to rewax after every 50ish miles. Not sure if I’m letting the molten speed wax get too hot and taking it out.

I’ve tried squirt to try and prolong it but it attracts the grime and I was forced to do another deep clean of the drive train so I haven’t tried it again.
So far I’ve reused the quick link several times for my shimano chain. Hopefully it keeps holding up.
In my experience, swirling the chain during the soak is important, as is adequate soak time. And letting the wax cool to around 140-150° helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
In my bikes I run an X0 chain (10 and 11 spd) with the Connex link as master link. No problems at all.

Now for the 12 spd… Has anyone tried the 11 speed connex link on a 12 speed chain? I don’t know if it’ll wiggle or rub against adjacent cogs or even the frame… It’s sort the only option I can think of without replacing the entire chain.
 

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In my bikes I run an X0 chain (10 and 11 spd) with the Connex link as master link. No problems at all.

Now for the 12 spd… Has anyone tried the 11 speed connex link on a 12 speed chain? I don’t know if it’ll wiggle or rub against adjacent cogs or even the frame… It’s sort the only option I can think of without replacing the entire chain.
I asked them that question and they said not to use the 11 speed and to wait.
 

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May I ask what's special about the Connex connecting link? I haven't seen one IRL. Thanks.
=sParty
 

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No idea when they are coming out though. Pandemic has delayed them. Think I've reused my shimano ones like 5 times so far. Hope they don't fail and I eat it anytime soon. haha.
 
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