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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I got good advice on the 26er forum and wanted to double check my setup before I buy a second derailer.

I have the Sunrace MX3 11-46 10sp cassette and found the XT RD-M-786 GS + Goat Link hit the cassette, no matter what adjustments I made. To be clear it hits the cassette not when shifting but when mounted. I believe this is because it has Shimano's "low profile" design which moves the arm inboard.

I was steered to the XT-RD-M8000 Medium Cage 11sp which I plan to use with my 10sp shifters, chain, cassette. I may later go to all 11sp but for now don't want to be in too deep on costs.

Wanted to ask for some confirmation from anyone who has this setup that it does in fact clear the large cassette.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I bought the goat link for the 10sp M786. Ill now return or sell them both.

I did not plan on buying the link for the 11sp M8000 just looking for some real world experience with the matchup of parts before i buy.
 

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I didn't think an 11 speed derailleur would be compatible with a 10 speed cassette.. Maybe someone else here will know better.
This has been posted a bunch. Both Shimano 10sp and 11sp have the same pull ratio (1:1 I think) and 11spd rears work just fine on large 10spds. They also provide better chain wrap.
 

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My wife's bike runs an SLX M7000GS (same but cheaper heavier to the M8000) and Sunrace 11-46 MX3 10-speed, works as good as my full M8000 11-speed gtoup. She prefers the lighter touch of Saint shifters and w e have various bikes in the family all with either M7 or M8XXX rdrs on 10-speed all are just fine. They do not need a Goatlink (I know you are returing/selling) for the 46.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi everybody I received the Shimano RD M 8000 GS 11 speed reat and hooked it up.

There is no problem whatsoever shifting to the 46 tooth cog. However I am having a similar problem as I was with the previous 10 speed XT derailer. The shift arm where the pinch bolt is for the cable makes contact with the 40 or 46 tooth cog. I have to adjust the high limit screw so that the chain will remain on the third from smallest cog in order to prevent the shift arm from contacting the large cogs. I can see no way to get to a smaller cog.

I am not sure if I have the vocabulary correct but I believe that the shift arm moveed in board to allow for the so-called compact geometry of new derailers where as it used to be outboard.

Am I missing something? Is my circa 2004 bike not compatible?

Bicycle tire Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle part Spoke Bicycle accessory
Bicycle wheel rim Mode of transport Bicycle part Spoke Rim
 

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RAKC
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Your trying to set it up without cable installed and pulling tension. Isnt going to ever work that way, need the cable and chain holding tension on the RD for it to clear.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Some combination of removing reinstalling the derailer hanger double checking the wheel was square and adding a small spacer washed between the derailer and it’s hanger has this shifting well.
 

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since 4/10/2009
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yes, that hanger is bent. use a proper hanger alignment tool to straighten it. putting a spacer between the hanger and the derailleur is a poor solution as it doesn't move the hanger away from the cassette where clearance is tight enough that it will probably begin to rub on the chain.
 

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Is it obvious from my photos which make/model would fit as a replacement hanger?
no. there are literally hundreds of hanger shapes. easier for you or a shop to look it up. either straight from the frame manufacturer or a place like derailleurhanger.com or wheels manufacturing.

take it to a shop so they can use a hanger alignment tool to straighten it.

or buy the tool and do it yourself after reading up on how to use it.

it is not so severely mangled that it can't be straightened, though you should keep a spare on hand, anyway
 

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Do not do this. There is no evidence your frame is bent. Listen to Harold.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Its obvious the frame is bent, its a fact not up for debate. The hanger is straight as an arrow. The frame line factually is not in line with the cassette line, and it factually NEEDs to be inline.
 

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Please do not take my word for it, place a straight level on the inside of the frame with the hanger removed, it is not inline. You can also place the hanger on a straight edge to see that the hanger itself is pretty straight.
 
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