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bikma cost more thn carma
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my dream bike this year, a 575..(not available in black Ano this year for some reason??)

I have been riding for years and have never experienced chain issues but I have had this bike for 4 months and have broken 4 chains. It is a 3X10, and have had imput regarding sram vs shimano chains potentially being the issue. At $40 a chain I am getting concerned...any ideas/imput would be appreciated.
 

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I don't know what isuess you're having. I had a KMC chain on a 2x10 with no problems. Replaced it with a shimano slx (it was about 40 buck) Thanks to the wipperman chain test I got a chain that, according to them, has about 85% the durability of their fancy chains at 40% of the cost.

Look up the wipperman test. Sram didn't do well.
 

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jddist
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373 Posts
Got my dream bike this year, a 575..(not available in black Ano this year for some reason??)

I have been riding for years and have never experienced chain issues but I have had this bike for 4 months and have broken 4 chains. It is a 3X10, and have had imput regarding sram vs shimano chains potentially being the issue. At $40 a chain I am getting concerned...any ideas/imput would be appreciated.
You should go back to riding your Nomad:D Just kidding. Any problems on your second descent of the rim Sun?
 

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bikma cost more thn carma
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157 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
wipperman test huh? will do...thx. and (JD?) Second ride was just as good as the first, but I felt it on Monday. Need to hook up w u guys in Fruita next time...one day just isn't enough.
 

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jddist
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373 Posts
wipperman test huh? will do...thx. and (JD?) Second ride was just as good as the first, but I felt it on Monday. Need to hook up w u guys in Fruita next time...one day just isn't enough.
Glad to hear it girl:) You might want to post this over in the Shimano group and give more info such as exactly what setup you are running, exactly when and how often it happens, and the fact that you are riding the same stuff you have been riding for the past few years on your nomad without any issues so people don't start with looking at your riding style that may be the issue.:D
 

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Only chains i've really snapped on a regular basis were the hollowpin ones.. so now i avoid them.
Never had any issues with the SRAM991's on the 9 speeds.
Got a 2X10 with an SRAM1051 when my SB66 turns up so i'll keep an eye on its performance.
Clearly the chain will be a bit thinner but only by a very small ammount.

I'd check your drive train out.. such as alignment and all your cassette + ring teeth are ok, chain length
is correct. Also your not going in odd gear combinations thats putting extra strain on the chain
(big cog rear + big cog front)
 

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Trail Ninja
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6,480 Posts
I think the primary benefit you get with the more expensive chains is the rust proofing (nickle plating) and slightly less weight (less weight = easier to throw the chain around with chain slap and chain drop). I plan on running cheap $20 chains once I upgrade to 10 spd, with the XX cassette, no less. The cassette (and chainrings) make the biggest difference in shifting performance, I've found, at least X-Glide over PowerGlide II. I don't think PG2 vs another PG2 makes much of a difference. XG definitely smoother than XTR, though I'd go with Shimano (XT) over Powerglide if I didn't want to invest so much in the best.

I know KMCs have issues on 10 spd SRAM stuff. Not breaking, but dropping, twisting, and missed shifts.
 

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More expensive chains often do have better corrosion resitance but once you
get above the bargain basement they are all much of a muchness in this department.

I'd say the main difference apart from weight is the tollerances should be tighter on better chains
and hence more even wear which is kinder to your cogs and should result in a
longer lasting drivetrain. Breaking chains are the worst as they can damage your cogs
or rip your rear derail off ;P so i'd go for a bit of strength + quality over the useless hollowpin
and/or cheap ones.
As for the cheaper chains they are more prone to rust and hence a link locking and
damaging your more expensive chainrings / derails etc. So if your running an expensive
drivetrain then i'd go for a reasonable quality chain and look after it as it's not really about shifting performance but how the thing wears and how prone it is to fail. If you can afford to trash
your XX or XTR stuff then you can afford reasonable chains in the first place :)

Lots of people don't keep an eye on chain wear and damage their drivetrain as a result
for the sake a a £3-£5 tool and 30 seconds checking it.
 
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