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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

After months of browsing i've laid down some cash and walked away with a 2008 Giant Reign X1. I've completed a few short trails thus far and i'm blown away by the ride. I'll get some pictures up shortly but would rather wait until i swap out a few parts. I've noticed some very nice samples lurking in these forums.
My question and i seek your advice is what parts do you think need upgrading before it gets bashed and bruised.

My thinking is the

Handlebar, something a bit wider, perhaps Raceface Diablous DH low risers.
Brakes are juicy fives, upgrade front rotor to 8".
Pedals, Easton Flatboys.
Front Derailleurs, LX to Shimano Saint.
And last but probably most importantly, LX/Sun Rhyno Lite to King/Hadley Hubs & Mavic EX823 Tubeless or EX729 rims.

The wheels and handlebar are probably the most important to me, and the others i'll consider if the budget allows or the misses goes on holidays!

Bollocks
 

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bollocks2007 said:
Hi there,

After months of browsing i've laid down some cash and walked away with a 2008 Giant Reign X1. I've completed a few short trails thus far and i'm blown away by the ride. I'll get some pictures up shortly but would rather wait until i swap out a few parts. I've noticed some very nice samples lurking in these forums.
My question and i seek your advice is what parts do you think need upgrading before it gets bashed and bruised.

My thinking is the

Handlebar, something a bit wider, perhaps Raceface Diablous DH low risers.
Brakes are juicy fives, upgrade front rotor to 8".
Pedals, Easton Flatboys.
Front Derailleurs, LX to Shimano Saint.
And last but probably most importantly, LX/Sun Rhyno Lite to King/Hadley Hubs & Mavic EX823 Tubeless or EX729 rims.

The wheels and handlebar are probably the most important to me, and the others i'll consider if the budget allows or the misses goes on holidays!

Bollocks
there is no reason to replace the front derailluer, that LX will last

the wheels you will have a hard time breaking, I would say keep the wheels that you have till they break

the other things are personal preference

Full Mountian
 

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Wheels - mine came with WTB dual duty FR rims, which I use for AM with single-ply tires mounted, and for DH/FR I have a second set of wheels with DH tires mounted, so it's a quick wheel swap to change duties. If you are planning to buy wheels anyway, why not plan to swap for AM and DH?

Brakes - yeah I upgraded my front to 8", since all you need is an adapter and a rotor it's worth it.
 

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MaddSquirrel said:
Do the bars since that is a little more personal preference. Then go for the wheels.
Make sure to get a shorter stem at the same time. The stock one is too long for wide bars. 50mm feels pretty good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How about chain guides, i'm thinking of removing the 24T and just using the 36T with a chain guide if that is possible, i hate chain slap:madmax: . Has anybody retained the 36T or did you convert to a 32T, which chain guide would be appropriate. The E13 SRS type, old?
I agree if i get wider bars i would shorten the stem at the same time.
 

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I went for the Hope floating rotors with the adaptor 8" Fr and 7" Rr, changed to Shimano clip-in's, E-13 chain guide with the RFace bash gaurd with some creative strategic drilling, ODI Ruffian lock-on's, XT CrankSet, CF Bars (you may want alum of course).

But dont buy for the sake of buying, get it when you need it, or if what you have currently will not survive or support your intended use I guess...I can not see many people on here (myself included) being within the high end pro level, so I think any over-specing is not needed.
 

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I put some Azonic B-52 bars on mine which would have been expensive, but I got a pro deal on them. I like the bar so far, and I wasn't sure I would.

I also put Sun Singletrack rims with a DT FR-440 rear hub on. I had to keep the stock hub for the front since my buddy wouldn't sell me the front hub.

I would do an 8" front rotor for sure. It made a huge difference for me.

I don't know how heavy you are, but you might look into a heavier spring for the fork too. I had to up that off the stock spring due to some bottoming issues.

I've been thinking about trying to order a Totem for it for next years race season, gonna let the 36 finish this season. Anyone done that or seen it done? How's it affect the bike as far as handling on climbs and pedally stuff.
 

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bollocks2007 said:
How about chain guides, i'm thinking of removing the 24T and just using the 36T with a chain guide if that is possible, i hate chain slap:madmax: . Has anybody retained the 36T or did you convert to a 32T, which chain guide would be appropriate. The E13 SRS type, old?
I agree if i get wider bars i would shorten the stem at the same time.
I swapped the heavy Ride cranks for the 2-ring Hones, and got a Blackspire Stinger chain guide. It's light and only $30cdn, and lets you keep the small ring. Standard ISCG mount.
 

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scottap2003 said:
I've been thinking about trying to order a Totem for it for next years race season, gonna let the 36 finish this season. Anyone done that or seen it done? How's it affect the bike as far as handling on climbs and pedally stuff.
A 180mm fork feels perfect on the X. Just drop the stem down to the headset.

I'ev always found that having a little more front travel was ideal for DS bikes.
 

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Sounds good to me. I might be trying to get the Totem for x-mas.

I'm probably gonna try to get some Gravity Lite cranks for mine pretty quick to get rid of the stock, heavy as bricks, cranks. If anyone knows anyone that might want em...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As the Reign X1 already has a Raceface Alloy Bashguard how about fitting a Raceface chainguide only? How about the Atlas FR Chain Guide, can i just use that so i don't need to purchase a e.13 system with bashguard. At the same time i could remove the 24T, no need for granny speed!
 

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fsrxc said:
I swapped the heavy Ride cranks for the 2-ring Hones, and got a Blackspire Stinger chain guide. It's light and only $30cdn, and lets you keep the small ring. Standard ISCG mount.
Good to know about the Hone cranks because the Atlas AM cranks on the X0 don't leave enough room to add my Blackspire. I even took the chainguide into the machine shop to make it so the bolts would sit deeper in the plate. The small chainring bolts just sit too inboard. Even with all the spacers on the drive side, they rub on the entire guide plate :madman:
 

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If the Race Face chainguides are as overbuilt as the rest of their components, I can imagine it would be pretty heavy. I don't think you "have" to use the bashguards that come with a chainguide anyway. Besides, Race Face tends to be pretty expensive.
 

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YoPawn said:
A 180mm fork feels perfect on the X. Just drop the stem down to the headset.

I'ev always found that having a little more front travel was ideal for DS bikes.
That's a good fit. The 180mm sucks for climbing if you do any, 160mm was hard enough. Get a 2 step totem, You won't notice the weight difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the responses,

I'm not overly fused about weight, i don't mind climbing slowly if i can cause havoc descending.:D I've ordered the Raceface Diablous 36T chain guide a 50mm D2 stem and a Diablous DH Riser bar. I've also ordered a 8" G2 Avid Rotor for the front, should slow down the brake fade on hot days with long descents.
Still using the original wheels, i'll use them till the bend i guess. If you had to choose between Mavic EX729 or EX823 Tubeless for light freeride/rock garden bashing which would it be?
Awesome ride, love it, need to take some holidays as work is getting in the way of my riding time, i guess it pays for the upgrades.:p
 
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