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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had an 05 racer-x but didn't have this problem. Recently got an 07 and now I'm having issues with the chainline. When in the middle ring, shouldn't I be able to get into the low gear on the back (the easiest gear)? When I try to climb in the middle-low combination, the chain isn't happy and makes sounds like it's popping off. I don't have issues in the stand, or on flats...only when climbing. As a result, I dropped the chain down to the granny and used 3rd lowest to get a comparable gearing while climbing. I suppose I can learn to deal with this, but I never experienced this at all on my old racer x. I did have to face my BB shell on the old one (came in at 74.3mm...WAY out of spec). This one was faced and chased by the factory...a nice job, and comes in at 73.2 mm...close enough.

Here's a possible solution I thought of. When I look closely at in and take a few measurements, I noticed that the drive side probably has about .5mm more metal on it than the non-drive side. This is all referenced from the seat tube. Since the shell is pretty much in tolerance, I don't want to remove more metal. I've got RF deus cranks, and the install requires a 2.5mm spacer between the outboard drive bearing and the shell. I didn't put any sort of spacers on the crank, which allows for chainline adjustment...making it have the most inward chainline as possible. Here's the thought I had...I could remove additional metal on the BB shell and make the shell 68mm. If 68 mm, I'm supposed to use 1 x 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive, and 2x2.5mm spacer on the drive side. Since I'm removing metal, I can actively try to remove just a bit more on the drive side to push the chainline inward. So...what do you all think? What should I do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not exactly. It's old parts that I stripped from the old bike...and probably only about 100 miles old. Everything's in good shape still. It seemed to be that it's a chainline issue. When I throw it in the stand and look from the rear w/ the middle-low combination, it's majorly slanted. I expect unhappy gears when I run big-big (with BTW I don't). I expect full range when I'm in the middle ring. Any more thoughts?
 

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Ok, so no spacers on the Bottom Bracket now?

Limit screws on the rear der are not stopping it from staying on the cog? Might back off the screw and then got the barrell adjuster a click or 2.
 

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Also, make sure the derailleur hanger isn't slightly bent (could have happened during shipping). Were the chain and cassette you are using now used together before? If they are old parts that you are just now paring up that may be the problem like demo_slug said. I would not go shaving any metal? :eekster: At the very least call Titus and see if that is how the bike is spec'd and maybe they can help. I think the best bet would be to take it to a shop and see if they can adjust your drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There's one spacer on the BB now, on the drive side as race face recommends. The limit screw didn't seem to tight, but I can give that a shot. I'd assumed that it wasn't the limit since the problem didn't exist when in granny-low gear combo.

The hanger was put in backwards and spun out of the way in shipment to protect it. I guess it wouldn't been bent still and I'll check that also.

jsnk1975-when you suggest talking to Titus and asking how it's "spec'd," what are you refering to?

Incase I wasn't clear about "shaving" the metal, I'd be using the proper tools, not just taking a flat file or something to it. I faced and chased my last BB at my LBS...I pretty much have free range there.
 

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I run Shimano but I run one sacer and I keep it on the non drive side for Chainline reasons. I'd say experiment despite Raceface suggestions and try putting the spacer on the other side.

I see where you are coming from on the limit screw but It could be just the slightest but too tight. Just enough for that chain line.
 

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notenoughtime said:
There's one spacer on the BB now, on the drive side as race face recommends. The limit screw didn't seem to tight, but I can give that a shot. I'd assumed that it wasn't the limit since the problem didn't exist when in granny-low gear combo.

The hanger was put in backwards and spun out of the way in shipment to protect it. I guess it wouldn't been bent still and I'll check that also.

jsnk1975-when you suggest talking to Titus and asking how it's "spec'd," what are you refering to?

Incase I wasn't clear about "shaving" the metal, I'd be using the proper tools, not just taking a flat file or something to it. I faced and chased my last BB at my LBS...I pretty much have free range there.
Sorry I was probably a little unclear too. I would just suggest that you talk to Titus and go over the measurements you have taken on the drive side before you (face) shave any metal....getting their input on your issue wouldn't be a bad idea is all. So the cassette and chain have always been used together? Or just when you put them on your 07?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Asahi, I'll give the moving the spacer idea a shot. I didn't really want to do that since it'd make me off center. I wonder if there's a 1mm and 1.5mm spacer, or some 1.25mm spacers out there so I can move it over just a bit. That'd be the ideal option.

jsnk1975, I went and measured according to sutherland's manual and it's only a slight difference from left to right. The chain and cassette were used together on the old bike.
 

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I moved the spacer to the NDS on my HH with the M760 cranks. I never noticed the difference but the shifting was much better. I'm using an otherwise 8 speed drivetrain though.

47.5mm chainline has worked just fine for many years. For whatever reason, Shimano decided to go with 50mm for this latest generation in 2003. The frames haven't changed so I don't see why the chainline needed to.

You can't go without the spacer though. You'll shear the head off the bolt trying to tighten it up. <-- Ask me how I know. :rolleyes: And unless you bought the cranks from your LBS, good luck getting another bolt. :madman:

p.s. I wouldn't think it was your derailleur hanger unless it's bent outward. The hanger usually bends in and you have the opposite problem of the chain going up and over the big cog into the spokes.
 

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Homebrew said:
You can't go without the spacer though. You'll shear the head off the bolt trying to tighten it up. <-- Ask me how I know. :rolleyes: And unless you bought the cranks from your LBS, good luck getting another bolt. :madman: .
If you are referring to the pinch bolts I have extras if someone ever needs them since I changed mine out with Ti bolts :)
 

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Homebrew said:
The hanger usually bends in and you have the opposite problem of the chain going up and over the big cog into the spokes.
I can attest to that :madman:

It's all worth checking out though. Let us know when you get it sorted out. I'm curious to know what the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well my next attempt will be to check at the LBS and see if there's some smaller spacers, like 1mm-2mm. I'll be sure that in the end, I end up with 2.5mm of spacing. I won't be over until the weekend most likely, so won't have much to say until them. I'll check the limit screw...but am not optimistic that that'll be it.
 

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Asahi said:
If you are referring to the pinch bolts I have extras if someone ever needs them since I changed mine out with Ti bolts :)
Sorry I was skipping around and it wasn't clear what I was talking about. I was actually trying to refer to the big aluminum bolt on RF Deus (assuming that's what the op had).
 

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notenoughtime said:
Asahi, I'll give the moving the spacer idea a shot. I didn't really want to do that since it'd make me off center. I wonder if there's a 1mm and 1.5mm spacer, or some 1.25mm spacers out there so I can move it over just a bit. That'd be the ideal option.

jsnk1975, I went and measured according to sutherland's manual and it's only a slight difference from left to right. The chain and cassette were used together on the old bike.
Shimano makes 1.8mm and 0.8mm spacers, besides the 2.5mm ones... I got mine from this shop here in Germany (see the combobox on the page for sizes)

http://www.bike-components.de/catalog/Distanzring+f%FCr+Hollowtech+II+Lager

I suppose QBP should have these in the US too..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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notenoughtime said:
Those shimano spacers sound like exactly what I want. Does this look right?

http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=list&Category=178&brand=367&modelid=962&type=T

CR1376 and CR1375

Hopefully this will work out.

Or, could 2 of these work?
http://harriscyclery.net/page.cfm?PageID=49&action=details&sku=FW8306

I believe cassette spacers work for BB right?
the CR1376 and CR1375 are exactly the ones.... I have also heard that cassette spacers work, but I have not tried it......
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I got those spacers as suggested. When I took the BB off, I noticed how uneven the alignment between drive side and ND side. I put the 1.8mm on the ND side and the .7 on the D side. Haven't ridden yet, but we'll see tomorrow. I might end up going back to the 2.5 mm on the ND side, like I had it. Hopefully this will still work and give me full range.
 
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