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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I read here on a few Mtbr threads the bottomout control is different on the 06' and 07' 36's. I called Fox the other day and inquired about this and was told they have the same dampers ??? What's the real story ? Thanx
 

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carpe mañana
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keen said:
So I read here on a few Mtbr threads the bottomout control is different on the 06' and 07' 36's. I called Fox the other day and inquired about this and was told they have the same dampers ??? What's the real story ? Thanx
Are you positive that the bottomout control happens in the damper?

_MK
 

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keen said:
So I read here on a few Mtbr threads the bottomout control is different on the 06' and 07' 36's. I called Fox the other day and inquired about this and was told they have the same dampers ??? What's the real story ? Thanx
I haven't opened an 07, but from what I understand there is a slight difference in the bottom out piston IN THE DAMPER. I think it's a minor thing considering that you could increae bottom out on 06 models if you know what you're doing or if you want to pay Fox for the labor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
C24C said:
I haven't opened an 07, but from what I understand there is a slight difference in the bottom out piston IN THE DAMPER. I think it's a minor thing considering that you could increae bottom out on 06 models if you know what you're doing or if you want to pay Fox for the labor.
The tech. I spoke w/ @ Fox was really open about the damper service. He said if I had any questions about damper service he would be more than happy to answer any questions. I was just curious if there were any improvments for 07' that would make purchasing an 07' over 06' ?
 

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Since it sounds like you have the know-how, all you'd need are the tools and you could increase the bottom out yourself if it turned out that you'd actually benefit from it. If I were you I'd probably try and find a new '06 at a discount somewhere and try it out before making any changes. Who knows, you might find that it feels great right out of the box.
 

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well I forget where I read but they just increased its range of adjustability so the new max bottom out is like 2 or three times the old ones max something like it now takes over 600lbs of force to bottom out the new setting vs the old ones I think the article was on pinkbike.com
 

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I only heard that the changed the internal setting from '06 to '07. On the '06 it was set to medium, where it is supposed to be set to hard on the '07. Something that Fox can do to any '06 too. The Van shouldn't be any different otherwise from the previous model, the Talas is like a new fork in '07.
 

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Has anyone ridden both 06 and 07 models and could comment more on this issue? I had the 06 model and had to change the default blue spring to one step harder one (green) because it was bottoming out way too easily. The downside of this was while the green was fine with drops, the fork became a little bit unresponsive on smaller stuff. What I'm wondering is that whether or not I could run the 07 model with the blue spring without excessive bottoming if the bottoming out resistance has been increased noticeably.
 

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No, I had it in its default setting till I sold it few weeks ago. I guess I didn't believe that switching it from medium to high would really have enabled me to run the blue spring since the bottoming out was so harsh and obvious. But I guess I can soon find out about the 2007 model since I just sent email to the guy who is selling it. :) I was originally going for Totem Solo Air, but since I can get the 07 Fox36 for almost the same price that I sold the 06 model, I'm going for it. Talk about a good deal... :)

Btw, just checked out the fork manual for 07 Fox36 and it seems that they have made changes to the spring recommendation table. Now the recommendations intersect for different springs, ie. now for example my weight (~176lbs with gear) matches with both blue and green spring.
 

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Don't put too much faith in the Fox coil spring tables. Many of us are running lighter springs than they recommend by a large margin...and yes, I'm talking for use bigger than curb drops...LOL! Many Marz oil bath forks allow some super plush compliance, and the oil level can be used to address bottomout. The same thing can be done on the "Fit" cart in the 36 series. It's just a little harder to access the adjustment, of course.
 

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TNC said:
Don't put too much faith in the Fox coil spring tables. Many of us are running lighter springs than they recommend by a large margin...and yes, I'm talking for use bigger than curb drops...LOL! Many Marz oil bath forks allow some super plush compliance, and the oil level can be used to address bottomout. The same thing can be done on the "Fit" cart in the 36 series. It's just a little harder to access the adjustment, of course.
I weigh 150# all suited up, and only get 18% sag with the light spring in on mine. I forget what color it is, but it's a step below the stock one. I would like to turn up the bottoming resistance though. Havn't done it yet, but I will before the winter's over.
 

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ISO Gems...
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36 Van...

Here's a little linky on what Fox supposedly addressed on the 2007 36 Van RC2, just scroll through the article :

http://nsmb.com/gear/fox07_04_06.php

I owned the 06 36Van RC2 and simply put, I just didn't like the performance of the fork too much - it felt waay too linear for my taste, and this was with the internal bottom out turned all the way up.
So, I picked up a new closeout 06 Marz 66 RC2X (whale blubber and spring version) last November and it feels MUCH better. The a/c is a bit taller and it weighs a bit more but the ride and the adjustments work spot on.

D
 

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Thanks for that link! Didn't remember that one. Imo, the changes on 36 sound very promising, atleast on paper. Especially this one:

-clip-
Bottom-out control.

If there was any critique of 2006 36s and 40s it was that they were hungry for full travel. They’d just gobble it up every time they got a chance. Near the end of their travel a small piston would ride into a cylinder, which theoretically increased oil pressure and controlled bottom-outs. But the fit between the piston and cylinder was too loose, and those high oil pressures never happened. Weak sauce.

The new bottom-out control rocks the strong sauce. First, the cylinder is cone-shaped. Second, the piston has an “interference fit,” which means it actually touches the inside of the cone. Third, the cone has four sets of holes along its height. When the piston first hits the cone, oil flows through all four ports. Then it squeezes oil through three ports, then two, then just one. The oil pressure builds up gradually, and it builds big.

The old bottom setup generated 80 pounds of bottom-out resistance. The new one generates 600 pounds. HUGE DIFFERENCE! The resistance starts around 1 1/4 inches from the bottom of the stroke and builds smoothly from there. And one more adjustment: The little piston can be moved up or down to engage the cone sooner or later.
-clip-
 

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mehukatti said:
Thanks for that link! Didn't remember that one. Imo, the changes on 36 sound very promising, atleast on paper. Especially this one:

-clip-
Bottom-out control.

If there was any critique of 2006 36s and 40s it was that they were hungry for full travel. They'd just gobble it up every time they got a chance. Near the end of their travel a small piston would ride into a cylinder, which theoretically increased oil pressure and controlled bottom-outs. But the fit between the piston and cylinder was too loose, and those high oil pressures never happened. Weak sauce.

The new bottom-out control rocks the strong sauce. First, the cylinder is cone-shaped. Second, the piston has an "interference fit," which means it actually touches the inside of the cone. Third, the cone has four sets of holes along its height. When the piston first hits the cone, oil flows through all four ports. Then it squeezes oil through three ports, then two, then just one. The oil pressure builds up gradually, and it builds big.

The old bottom setup generated 80 pounds of bottom-out resistance. The new one generates 600 pounds. HUGE DIFFERENCE! The resistance starts around 1 1/4 inches from the bottom of the stroke and builds smoothly from there. And one more adjustment: The little piston can be moved up or down to engage the cone sooner or later.
-clip-
Interesting. I wonder what position the bottom out adjuster is in in the figures there....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
mehukatti said:
No, I had it in its default setting till I sold it few weeks ago. I guess I didn't believe that switching it from medium to high would really have enabled me to run the blue spring since the bottoming out was so harsh and obvious. But I guess I can soon find out about the 2007 model since I just sent email to the guy who is selling it. :) I was originally going for Totem Solo Air, but since I can get the 07 Fox36 for almost the same price that I sold the 06 model, I'm going for it. Talk about a good deal... :)

Btw, just checked out the fork manual for 07 Fox36 and it seems that they have made changes to the spring recommendation table. Now the recommendations intersect for different springs, ie. now for example my weight (~176lbs with gear) matches with both blue and green spring.
I'd like to hear your feedback on the 07'. I just installed the heaviest yellow spring in my 06' . I havn't hit the trails but I can't feel that much of a difference from the green spring. Pisses me off :madman: I called Fox and asked if the 06' & 07' Dampers were the same and they said yes - maybe the tech. was talking thru his arse ???
 

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Just installed the 07 Fox 36 Van R to my SX Trail and went out for a quick test with blue spring in it. I'm sorry to say, but it feels almost exactly the same as my 06 model, so it appears that the improvements described in that nsmb.com article didn't go into production. I can almost go through the full travel while pumping it with some force and going off a 3 foot ledge also bottoms it out. Same as last year. Anyways, I just swapped in the green spring that I used last season, while I still feel that although it prevents excess bottoming, it also makes the fork feel a bit "hard" overall and unresponsive on smaller hits. But atleast I got the 07 model basically for free, so I don't need to send my old fork to service before the riding season starts. :) Next autumn I'm probably going for 08 Demo 7 or 08 Perp full bike, and then I'll get 08 Totem.

Don't get me wrong though, the 36 is still an "ok" fork, but not worth the 999 euro list price ($1300) in EU, imo. But luckily I never paid that.
 

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I own a '06 36 Van RC2 and I have the same experience, the fork consumes all its travel simply on a 3 feet drops...

I installed a stiffer coil (the next to the standard) and closed the High Speed compression to max and I also bottom it out on a 4 feet drop. Moreover I lost the small bumps sensitivity. I prefer the soft one and compromise some bottom outs .....

Anyone has played with the internal bottom out feature? Is the next step to give a try but, I would like to know experiences....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
See my thread : http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=273573

I would like to also add I spoke with Fox again and was told for the 06' model 36 there was a running production change made in the internal bottomout adjustment - they set the initial forks on medium then the later forks to firm. You would have to open the damper to check the adjustment .
 
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