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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Having recently bought a '06 MKIII Expert noticed acceleration and speed difference (snap) compared to the my last MB. Only gained a few pounds and the stock wheels & Cinder tires seem reasonably light. Could the snap difference be due to the FSA V-Drive cranks w/ MegaExo bottom bracket set-up? Is there a break in time needed? Only had it for about 2 weeks if so. MKIII bikes awesome climbing & DH only notice it in the XC parts of the ride. Likin the Cinders by the way smaller than the 2.35s I used to run and are much meaner anyway.
 

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Hmmm. You'll have to pony up some info on your previous bike for us to understand the comparision.

A few pounds on a bike might not make the bike seem more snappy, as adding 2-3 pounds to the acceleration of total weight (bike, rider & equip = ~ 200 pounds) is adding ~ 1% to total accelerated weight.

Added weight to outside of wheel (tire/rim) can change the feel of snappiness tho.

If you aren't running proper sag to get the benis of the DW link would have an affect as well.

Or maybe you had a rigid before :eekster: Nothing can compete with the snappiness of a rigid.

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Mr.P said:
Hmmm. You'll have to pony up some info on your previous bike for us to understand the comparision.

A few pounds on a bike might not make the bike seem more snappy, as adding 2-3 pounds to the acceleration of total weight (bike, rider & equip = ~ 200 pounds) is adding ~ 1% to total accelerated weight.

Added weight to outside of wheel (tire/rim) can change the feel of snappiness tho.

If you aren't running proper sag to get the benis of the DW link would have an affect as well.

Or maybe you had a rigid before :eekster: Nothing can compete with the snappiness of a rigid.

P
That's what she said but I am running 25- 30% sag. Hmmm doesn't sound right / Previous bike was full suspension XC race so I did expect to loose some speed in the XC but I got what I was looking for on UH & DH performance end. So shed a few pounds for a little more snap in the XC? Any suggestion on bang for buck weight shedding? Don't want to go to smaller size tires though. Thanks and yipee-kaye-yay!
 

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broncbuster said:
Any suggestion on bang for buck weight shedding? Don't want to go to smaller size tires though. Thanks and yipee-kaye-yay!
best bang for buck weight savings:

tires
tubes
seat

The tires and tubes is where you will feel a difference on trail tho. Of course, all is a compromise and lighter tires may not live up to other standards. Being oatmeal powered means we always have to compromise one charteristic for another.

If you have the $$$, some crazy light wheels with light rims would help with the snappiness.

You sag is good, so no issue there. (Did I just write that?)

P
 

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broncbuster said:
Having recently bought a '06 MKIII Expert noticed acceleration and speed difference (snap) compared to the my last MB.
MKIII compared to FS XC is not an apples to apples comparison.

Better comparison would be an Azure compared to your last FS XC. Or a Hollowpoint set up with 3.75" rear travel/80mm XC fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ashwinearl said:
MKIII compared to FS XC is not an apples to apples comparison.

Better comparison would be an Azure compared to your last FS XC. Or a Hollowpoint set up with 3.75" rear travel/80mm XC fork.
I realize that. Bought it mainly for mountain trail riding but don't want to get passed even by a Azure in the XC parts. Just looking for some tips on how to improve there.
 

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broncbuster said:
I realize that. Bought it mainly for mountain trail riding but don't want to get passed even by a Azure in the XC parts. Just looking for some tips on how to improve there.
No offense but you'd probably get passed by a rigid hardtail in some XC parts of the trails. My hollowpoint kicks butt over my hardtail for the most part, but the improvements diminish rapidly as the trail conditions get easier and become more hardpack, smooth trails.

Smooth twisty trails is the one area where the hardtail shines over my Full suspension, and this is compared to an HP set up in 3.75" rear with a 80mm or 100mm XC front fork. So compared to a 5" rear/120-140mm front fork I imagine that the hardtail would be even better.

If you want to improve your XC performance realize that it may come at the expese of your allmountain/trail performance. You can't do both and it seems like you're striving for a middle ground.

Wheels, tires, tubes will probably do the most to liven up the bike. Yet you still need a strong wheel for your trail riding. Maybe a DT swiss wheel /Velocity VCX rim with Stans tubless conversion might be a good middle ground. Maybe a 2.1 tire in the rear but keep a 2.2-2.3 in front?

Stick with the shortest travel fork that the frame was designed to accomodate. One with platform like an SPV or FOX or motion control will help make it feel tighter/quicker.
 

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bronc,
how much do you weigh? what fork are you running? and undersprung and overactive front fork can really suck acceleration.
One major benefit of riding that bike is that you will ride more and get stronger and pedal harder.............. maybe lose some weight off your gut too I hear that makes you faster, although I haven't experienced that personally:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
ashwinearl said:
No offense but you'd probably get passed by a rigid hardtail in some XC parts of the trails. My hollowpoint kicks butt over my hardtail for the most part, but the improvements diminish rapidly as the trail conditions get easier and become more hardpack, smooth trails.
That is offensive :nono: kidding. but you have nailed what I am experincing on the head. I don't want to diminish the performance in the best parts of the ride or try to turn it into a XC bike though. Tires size is non-negotiable and I am running the slime lite 2.1 tubes (a lot of cholla cactus here) which are smaller than 2.25 tires. The smaller tubes work well and have even used then in 2.5s with no problems. I could cut off the seat post a bit but I need a little more room in the cock-pit anyway so looking for a new angled lighter one. Most posts I am finding are 30.9mm but the one in the MKIII is 30.0mm. The LBS guys suggested reaming the bike tube to use the larger 30.9 post. Those pranksters! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
g-funk said:
bronc,
how much do you weigh? what fork are you running? and undersprung and overactive front fork can really suck acceleration.
One major benefit of riding that bike is that you will ride more and get stronger and pedal harder.............. maybe lose some weight off your gut too I hear that makes you faster, although I haven't experienced that personally:thumbsup:
175lbs... / Started to use :idea: the lock-out option on the pike 454 u-turn in the smooth stuff seems to help. Might have it set a little overactive though, running a little less than manual specs air pressure wise.

You are right about the benefits of riding it have noticed over the last few weeks getting faster in XC. First thought is always the bike needs to diet not me. 19" frame seems about a inch short in the cock-pit for my 72" reach.... must be a knuckle dragger.:)
 

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broncbuster said:
Tires size is non-negotiable and I am running the slime lite 2.1 tubes (a lot of cholla cactus here) which are smaller than 2.25 tires.
Arent those Slime tires 1000+ gram tires?

If so you could loose close to a pound on the outside of each wheel with lighter tires and Stans, and still get the same protective effects (I think).

P
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mr.P said:
Arent those Slime tires 1000+ gram tires?

If so you could loose close to a pound on the outside of each wheel with lighter tires and Stans, and still get the same protective effects (I think).

P
I have Cinder tires with slime lite tubes in them / The slime lite tubes are only total 219 grams, tubes come with the slime already in them.
I don't know what the tires weigh but feel pretty light have had to change out the tubes from what came with them and the tire are a lot lighter than the 2.35 I was running. Think I will stick with this set up for the hairy stuff trail wise and work on impoving my conditioning to the slight weight gain from last MB in the XC. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just realized the LBS guys put their brand of sealant in the tubes since presta valve tubes won’t accept the slime. As you probably now if you run slime in your tubes (have to here due to the cactus) you have to buy tubes with the slime already in them. Had a flat several days after starting riding and changed it to the slime light tube. Later decided to change the other tube out so not to have to do it on the trail again since their crappy sealant didn’t work anyway. Speed loss was due to the fact that they pumped at least a pound of their crappy sealant into each tube and was the problem all along. Much snappier now. My bad!
 
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