[ripv]

So, I've got this schweeet new Z1 FR1 (150mm) and it seems that the stock springs (heavy) are too much for my 170lb self. Anyone try removing the right leg spring and putting say 40lbs of air in there? If so, did it ride worth a craaap? I'm just too cheap to buy the new springs.

--rip

 

[SCUBAPRO]

So, I've got this schweeet new Z1 FR1 (150mm) and it seems that the stock springs (heavy) are too much for my 170lb self. Anyone try removing the right leg spring and putting say 40lbs of air in there? If so, did it ride worth a craaap? I'm just too cheap to buy the new springs.

--rip

Removed the spring off my '04 Z150 and used 20PSI air and it worked well. I am 135lbs without gear. I spoke with Marzocchi tech support and I believe you can go up to 50PSI without blowing the seals out. I, however, would not go that high.

At your weight though, I would think the springs would work fine. Have you checked the oil height or maybe change the oil? That's what I would do first. Changing the oil (I use Spectro) makes the forks soooo plush that you'll need the spring. Just my 2 cents.

 

[El Chingon]

I'll buy it off you. I need a new Z-1FR 1 with heavies for my Heckler. I'll be selling my 04 Z-1 soon to get one. I'm currently running heavies in mine, but I weigh 230lbs.

 

[ripv]

Removed the spring off my '04 Z150 and used 20PSI air and it worked well. I am 135lbs without gear. I spoke with Marzocchi tech support and I believe you can go up to 50PSI without blowing the seals out. I, however, would not go that high.

At your weight though, I would think the springs would work fine. Have you checked the oil height or maybe change the oil? That's what I would do first. Changing the oil (I use Spectro) makes the forks soooo plush that you'll need the spring. Just my 2 cents.

I'm just basing the spring being too stiff based on the fact that I can only get about 15% sag, it feels a little harsh out on the trail, and the stock springs are heavy (rated for 180lbs and up?)

I think I'll take your advise and change the oil. I hear that it is a good idea after a few rides. Then I'll start playing with spring removal etc if I need to. Thanks!!

--rip

 

[jonk]

Done it...

....and it brings the fork alive!

I weigh roughly 170lbs also and I felt that the small bump ride of the fork was pretty poor, especially over roots and chatter.

I removed the left leg spring (ETA) just because I had the correct socket for this. This allows you to lock the fork down further using the ETA but it is no longer active, so I may try taking the right spring out instead. Anyway, I'm running one sping and about 10psi at the moment. That gives me 30% say and is progressive enough that it doesn't bottom on aggressive downhill, though I'm sure it will on drops.

If you are going to take the right side spring out it may be worth dropping the oil level 5ml to get full travel as you'll have more air than usual in that leg.

I had already changed the oil in mine. You'll be amazed at the amount of crap that comes out of the damping leg! The volumes should be around:

Right leg = 135ml
Left leg= 120ml

Hope that helps.

 

[bikerx40]

I just finished trying this for a few weeks on my Marathon S. I weigh 170 pounds and tried the stock Heavy spring in the ETA side and just air preload in the Rebound side.

To get the proper sag, I was using 30-35psi (stanchions are 30mm on the Marathon and I'm only at 105mm, so yours would be less pressure). The problem that I had with this setup was too much mid-stroke dive under braking. It seemed that almost all of my travel was used under braking, and so there wasn't any extra available travel to absorb braking bumps. Tried raising oil levels up to the maximum of 45mm, as well as increasing air preload without any luck.

Also, in my quest to eliminate the mid-stroke dive and near bottoming, I tried increasing the air pressure to 35-40psi, which resulted in stiction. The fork became really notchy and the rebound started to clunk (maybe lower oil levels would allow lower pressures and eliminate my problems?).

I'm thinking that the 2005 forks have a much heavier coil spring in the ETA side, which would allow much lower air preloads resulting in far less stiction. There isn't a negative spring to combat this added stiction and dive. A heavier coil would hold the fork up in it's travel during braking too.

I'm back on the dual coil setup withe zero air preload again, and I think that I'll be keeping it that way.

 

[ripv]

....and it brings the fork alive!

I weigh roughly 170lbs also and I felt that the small bump ride of the fork was pretty poor, especially over roots and chatter.

If you are going to take the right side spring out it may be worth dropping the oil level 5ml to get full travel as you'll have more air than usual in that leg.

Right leg = 135ml
Left leg= 120ml

Hope that helps.

Much thanks jonk... I think I'm going to give it a go for my weekend trip to Moab. I'll try the right leg option, but will certainly bring my spring and tools with me in case I want to switch back... Thanks for the oil volumes as well.

I'll post back here with my conclusions.

--rip

 

[SCUBAPRO]

I think I'm going to give it a go for my weekend trip to Moab. I'll try the right leg option, but will certainly bring my spring and tools with me in case I want to switch back...

Marzocchi does not recommend taking the ETA spring out...

 

[robsetsfire]

Marzocchi does not recommend taking the ETA spring out...

I think the reason for this is that you are supposed to reduce the amount of oil in the leg that you use as the air spring. Reducing the oil level in the ETA side could make the ETA not work since it may not fill up. Also removing the spring will proabably make the ETA work more like the older ECC with no travel when locked out.

I removed the spring from my 04 Z1s HCSV side and the thing worked great after reducing the oil level a bit. I am getting a 05 Z1 and will probably play around with it after a break in period.

 

[SCUBAPRO]

I removed the spring from my 04 Z1s HCSV side and the thing worked great after reducing the oil level a bit. I am getting a 05 Z1 and will probably play around with it after a break in period.

They actually told me to add 5cc or ml of oil after I remove the spring to make up for the oil displaced by the spring...

 

[ripv]

I'll post back here with my conclusions.

For those interested: I took out the spring from the rebound side and played with the air pressure to get me to about 25% sag. (worked out to be about 12psi). The fork does come alive, but it also has some brake dive. I know, what fork doesn't have brake dive. The thing is, I've never ridden a coil/oil Zoke with the proper spring rates. So, it is tough to know what is normal. Any thoughts here Zoke gurus?

--rip