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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
comp = $1200 at my LBS

and then the pro is $1500

the pro will have to be ordered however they have the comp right there


is the pro worth that $300 more? i like the color of the comp more however


i've only been riding a year and coming off a hardtail, i need a bike that'll take me 3-4 years to break in
 

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Lee said:
comp = $1200 at my LBS

and then the pro is $1500

is the pro worth that $300 more? i like the color of the comp more however
Maybe. The pro has upgraded derailleurs and slightly (slightly) fancier mechanical disc brakes. Big whoop. The pro has the Fox Triad shock, which is nice; the Fox Float on the Comp is pretty much the same shock, I think, but it doesn't give you the option of full open/propedal/lockout like the Triad. If that's important to you, then the extra cost might be worth it. Both have the Manitou Splice fork, which you're going to spend $300.00+ replacing anyway, so don't forget to factor that into your calculations.

If you can afford it, you really ought to think about looking at the Stumpjumper FSRs. MSRP of the Comp disc 100 is $2000.00 - mine cost $1800.00 retail, which equals the cost of the FSRxc pro plus the new fork you WILL end up purchasing if you get an FSRxc.
 

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Lee said:
comp = $1200 at my LBS

and then the pro is $1500

the pro will have to be ordered however they have the comp right there

is the pro worth that $300 more? i like the color of the comp more however

i've only been riding a year and coming off a hardtail, i need a bike that'll take me 3-4 years to break in
I was in a similar situation a couple of months ago, torn between a SJ 120 Comp (availabe in Canada) or the Expert for $270 more (Canadian dollars). I switched back and forth, the big difference was the fork: Fox Talas RL on Expert vs. Manitou Black Super RTWD on Comp. Both bikes needed to be ordered also (1 week), actually the only bikes I test rode was a FSRxc Comp for sizing. In the end I opted for the Comp and am very pleased with it! I'm loving it more and more every ride - I did two DH sections last night that I would have never thought of doing before!! :) :cool:

In your case, the big difference is the rear shock. If you don't plan on using the lockout, then opt for the Comp and use that money towards other upgrades. For your information, the SJ 120 comes with a Septune model of the Fox Float and it doesn't have a lockout either... so the morale is that not every bike these days has a lockout. Heck, I know that I don't need a lockout for the type of riding I do.

The Comp is available now, you like the colour better (might make you ride it more), so go buy it, ride it and stop asking so many question already! :D

Hope it helps!
 
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Wild74 said:
In the end I opted for the Comp and am very pleased with it! I'm loving it more and more every ride
ditto. I'd never use the lockout, and the only glaring weakness on the Comp (relatively speaking of course) is the fork, which is the same one on the Pro anyway.

Don't lose sight of the big picture either. The Comp is a $1400 bike. It's no slouch. Sure, there are better bikes out there, but I'm not sure there's a better all around package at this price for an intermediate rider.
 

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MattSavage
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Go with the Comp and ask the shop if you can get a deal on a fork upgrade. The only significant difference is the brakes. The BB-7's are slightly more adjustable than the 5's. And MBA did review on Shimano a couple months ago and said the Deore Lx groupo was the best shifting of the bunch, even better than XTR, so paying 300 bucks more for an XT derailleuer is silly. And something I've found with shocks is find the setting you like and forget it. On the FSR XC, lock out isn't all that necessary considering it's travel. The only time you'll get any real pedal induced bob is out of the saddle and mashing.

I guess the crankset on the pro is a pretty significant upgrade over the comp, but still not worth 300 bucks.

Hmmm..... Stick with the Comp and get a better fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Awesome thanks man.

Would I be better off buying the frame from Specialized and then just building it up? or would you not suggest this for one of my first bikes

Do I really need this new fork?

If the bike is going to end up costing $1500, what other options should I look at before buying?

How hard is a fork to install?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also would that fork even fit? the fork that comes with the FSR XC Comp says 100MM travel, the fork you showed me says 120MM

i don't know the different so please help me understand
 

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MattSavage
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The fork would fit, they just have limitations on travel due to leverage ratio's. A longer travel fork would put more stress on the headtube junction, so, technically you void your warranty by putting on a longer travel fork than they suggest. That being said, no one has to know what you put on their if yo take your frame in to have it warrantied due to stress cracks or a breakage.

But, i'll tell you what. I've been riding mine now for two years with a Z1 Freeride on there and haven't had a problem at all. I also upgraded the rear linkage to give me more travel and fix the slack headangle from having the 130mm fork.

I would suggest a Rock Shox Reba. Good quality travel (115mm) that is adjustable and affordable, and fairly light. The FSR XC is a really quick steering bike in its stock state. By putting on a slightly longer fork, you'll ease up the geometry just enough to give you a little better handling at speed, but still let you negotiate tight single track.

The Marathon is a great fork. At 120mm, the front end will want to wander a bit when climbing, but it has ETA, so you can drop its travel down for the climbs and have a sweet descent. I've always thought it was pretty flexy though.

Manitou Blacks are great forks. The stock Spice is basicallly a Black that's been downgraded. GreenFish has an 03 at $189.00 bucks that has 120/100mm travel and TPC+ dampening. I'd call them and see if there are still any in stock.
 

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Lee said:
Awesome thanks man.

Would I be better off buying the frame from Specialized and then just building it up? or would you not suggest this for one of my first bikes

Do I really need this new fork?

If the bike is going to end up costing $1500, what other options should I look at before buying?

How hard is a fork to install?
Man you have a lot of questions!!

I've never did a build up from a frame and I can only assume it would cost considerably more, but you get to pick and choose exactly what you want.

For the fork, no you may not need to updgrade it at all, it depends on your riding and what you're willing to pay out afterwards for upgrades. Ask your LBS if he could cut you a deal if you swapped it there, he may say no (my LBS said no) because it's already cut to a specific length, but it doesn't cost anything to ask. For swapping it yourself, it should be fairly easy, but you'll need some tools (hex keys, hacksaw, vise, etc.) to cut it down to length. Unless you know what you're doing, ask someone who knows (e.g. a shop) to do it for you - my recommendation, but it's your money.

If you're not set of a specific bike or have a fluctuating budget, shop around at other models too, you may find something else that catches your eye or it may help you make a decision either way. It you don't plan on making your own bike mainteance, make sure you buy a reputable shop. Remember this: "Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten."

I recommend the Comp. but if your dead set on having the best you can buy for the money, perhaps you should buy the Pro and get it ordered and then scrounge up for a better fork down the road if you feel that you need it. If you're putting down that amount of money on a bike, the last thing you want is any regrets... "if only I would have spent more at first..." type of thing. I did it with my first bike, it was rigid bike, thinking I would add a suspension fork, clipless pedals, etc., it wasn't worth it ($$) to do so.

Best of luck in your shopping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks bud, i am pretty set it stone now that i want the Comp instead of the pro

i may just go down and put a down payment on it tomorrow morning for when the new shipment comes in!
 

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As far as the lock out, I just bought a FSR 120 expert and the Septune shock does not have lock out. It pedals great in the stiffest setting, not "hard" like a rigid tail, but does not bob either. Most that I spoke to personally did not use lock out even if they had it. See what kind of deal you can get too. I was going with the FSR 100 expert due to my budget, but was able to get the 120 expert for 2160.00, less than the 100 msrp.
 

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LBS I bought my previous bike from. I didn't even haggle on price. They called Spec. to check stock and price and he hung up and said 2160.00. I was shocked too, and made triple sure we were talking about the same bike. I was all :D for sure.
 

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mattsavage said:
The Marathon is a great fork. At 120mm, the front end will want to wander a bit when climbing, but it has ETA, so you can drop its travel down for the climbs and have a sweet descent. I've always thought it was pretty flexy though.
I don't know what you've been smoking! You have got to be the first person I've ever heard use the term "Flexy" when referring to a marzocchi fork. Read the reviews for this fork.

The fork will not "wander" when climbing, the ETA is a pretty cool feature for steep climbing. The Zoke's will be very reliable and easy to maintain. And those 04 marathon S's are by far the best value out there right now. Superior damping with HCSV Cartridge and ETA, all for under $300.
 

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Yeah, it's a sweet fork for sure and a smoking deal. I was just never too fond of the Marathon. I'm a Black man (no pun intended) myself. Riding the two forks back to back on identical bikes and same trail sections, I prefered the Black. If I could have the dapmenping of the Marathon in the Black chassis, I'd be stoked.

For the fella purchasing the bike, if you buy a new fork, definately have a shop cut the steerer tube for you. You need a good clean cut in order to get the star nut in straight, and they'll have to press that in for you, so you might as well have them press on the crown race at the same time. While you're at it, upgrade the headset. They're cheap, 30-40 bucks for a decent one with sealed cartridge bearings. The stock headset on the Comp isn't really sealed at all and the bearings are loose, not cartridge style.

I think you'll be just as stoked with the Comp as with the Pro. I even went and checked out that Splice fork on a demo bike yesterday, so it was broken in, and it's not bad at all. It'll probably do you pretty well. Just keep an eye out for oil. Manitou's are notoriously leaky off the floor. If you see any at all within the first few rides, it'll be at the bottom of the right leg. There's a cheap little O-ring right inside that's super easy to replace, but also super easy to mangle, that's why alot of them leak. But it's not a big deal to fix and a good way to get to know your bike.
 

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I hear you.

mattsavage said:
Yeah, it's a sweet fork for sure and a smoking deal. I was just never too fond of the Marathon. I'm a Black man (no pun intended) myself. Riding the two forks back to back on identical bikes and same trail sections, I prefered the Black. If I could have the dapmenping of the Marathon in the Black chassis, I'd be stoked.

For the fella purchasing the bike, if you buy a new fork, definately have a shop cut the steerer tube for you. You need a good clean cut in order to get the star nut in straight, and they'll have to press that in for you, so you might as well have them press on the crown race at the same time. While you're at it, upgrade the headset. They're cheap, 30-40 bucks for a decent one with sealed cartridge bearings. The stock headset on the Comp isn't really sealed at all and the bearings are loose, not cartridge style.

I think you'll be just as stoked with the Comp as with the Pro. I even went and checked out that Splice fork on a demo bike yesterday, so it was broken in, and it's not bad at all. It'll probably do you pretty well. Just keep an eye out for oil. Manitou's are notoriously leaky off the floor. If you see any at all within the first few rides, it'll be at the bottom of the right leg. There's a cheap little O-ring right inside that's super easy to replace, but also super easy to mangle, that's why alot of them leak. But it's not a big deal to fix and a good way to get to know your bike.
I will say that 03 black with TPC+ is a great deal too. I had an X-Vert super, thought TPC+ was a fantastic damping system.
 
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