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mountain biker
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definitely don't hose them down!

It's very important to keep them clean, and to take them out and clean them at least once a year, inspecting for wear at tear... otherwise good luck!
 

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Gravity Rides Everything
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slyfink said:
It's very important to keep them clean, and to take them out and clean them at least once a year, inspecting for wear at tear... otherwise good luck!
if you tap the bearings out with a punch as many people do, don't put them back in, replace them, the hammering destroys the races. you can just remove the bolt, and then pry out the rubber seal to re-pack them with grease. this is a good idea every 3-6 monthes especially if you ride in wetter climates. I imagine if you live in a dry area the bearings will last many years.
I replace the bearings on my enduro once at the 6 month mark after an especially wet spring.
 

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Just looked at mine after a year... ICK!!

Was performing the ultra-cleaning on my bike and decided to rip apart the pivots. First off, I was a little disappointed in the actual sze of the bearings. Pretty samll & whimpy. All the bearings were very rough to the feel, like they were pitted/corroded. :mad: I did not remove the bearings from the frame, rather opened them up and tried to clean them best as possible with some WD-40, air compressor and grease. I figured they would be ruined if I beat them out and I don't have a new set for install. I actaully found some relatively large quantities of dirt in one of the bearings. :confused: I did not open/inpsect the large main pivots, only all the little ones on the link and chainstays.

Anyone know how much a whole new set of bears cost? Also, is the fit pretty tight in the frame? Will I have to beat the hell out of them to remove? I will try to press the new ones in.
 

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weaklink said:
Anyone know how much a whole new set of bears cost? Also, is the fit pretty tight in the frame? Will I have to beat the hell out of them to remove? I will try to press the new ones in.
here in oz a bearing set for an 03 stumpy is 150 bucks so rather than be ripped off by the big S (or there oz distributor at least) i get bearings from a specialist bearing comapny here in oz that are about 1/4 of the cost and as good, if not better, quality. all bearings have a unique code that is usually written on the rubber seal so if u can make them out then u can just order new ones based on that. i think also the detailed frame specification sheets have the bearing codes on them too, (i think u can get them off the specialized web site). of course, installing non genuine bearings will void ur warranty yadda yadda yadda, as will performing the installation urself, cause obviously us mere mortals can't quite grasp the concept of tapping a bearing out and pressing a new one back in.....

ps. yeah the fit is tight so u've gotta give them a fair old whack, and as mentioned above after u tap one out u should not reinstall it cause the races will be a bit stuffed, but i've had to do that once and the bearing is still ok, probably won't last as long as it would have otherwise is all.
 

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aka dan51
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6,022 Posts
weaklink said:
Was performing the ultra-cleaning on my bike and decided to rip apart the pivots. First off, I was a little disappointed in the actual sze of the bearings. Pretty samll & whimpy. All the bearings were very rough to the feel, like they were pitted/corroded. :mad: I did not remove the bearings from the frame, rather opened them up and tried to clean them best as possible with some WD-40, air compressor and grease. I figured they would be ruined if I beat them out and I don't have a new set for install. I actaully found some relatively large quantities of dirt in one of the bearings. :confused: I did not open/inpsect the large main pivots, only all the little ones on the link and chainstays.

Anyone know how much a whole new set of bears cost? Also, is the fit pretty tight in the frame? Will I have to beat the hell out of them to remove? I will try to press the new ones in.
I just replaced the 4 bearings in the FlipFlop link. They all felt notchy, UNTIL I took them out, then I could barely tell the diff between new and used. When I put the new ones in, they felt a little notchy, but not like the old ones.

Removing them was quite frustrating, but doable. I used the two sockets method. The problems I had were:
1. not much room between the left and right pivots, which leads to a hard time of getting MY vise and sockets in there properly
2. the link was very smooth, along with the bearings and sockets so things kept slipping all over the place when I tried pushing the bearings out.
3. 4 hands are required. Try holding 2 sockets, the link, and then align them up while turning the vise shut, while trying to keep them all from sliding around! Very frustrating, but I managed it by myself.

"Pressing them in" was no simple task either. I gave up on the socket method for this one. Getting them going in straight was kind of a pain. But what I found that worked well was to put several old bearing on the bolt, then put the new bearing on the end. Then press the whole bearings and bolt assembly into the link. It helped keep things lined up, and probably did not put any pressure in the new bearings where pressure should not have been applied. I should have taken some pics of it....
 

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I had to replace all my bearings about a month and a half ago. I broke the rocker link and had to replace that so I didn't have to remove bearings from it but did have to place new bearings in the new link. To press in the bearings I just put the bearings on the bolts and bolted it up to the bike, seemed to press the bearings in just right and was super easy. The horst link bearings (the ones near the derailleur) I had the shop replace cause there's actually two bearings and they have to be pulled out not pressed, at least that's what the shop said. The two main bearings at the BB came out when I removed the bolts so I just had to pry them off the bolts and press the new ones back on the bolts then just bolt em back up.
 
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